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High Coolant Temperature After Black Series Lifters + C63 MS Stage 1 Cam Phaser

Old Jan 7, 2025 | 11:36 AM
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High Coolant Temperature After Black Series Lifters + C63 MS Stage 1 Cam Phaser

Hi, I'm experiencing overheating issue after changing stock lifters for black series lifters and cam phaser plates for 63 Motorsports stage 1 upgraded plates w/ skeleton covers. I completed the initial startup process of bedding the new lifters with the old cams by revving to 1800-2300 rpm varying for a period of time. After 15 minutes of this I received coolant warning from the dash. I listened to idle and it had quieted sufficiently so turned off car. Coolant hoses from reservoir and to radiator were warm. Coolant appeared to have been circulating. I let the car cool overnight and checked coolant level. Level was low so topped up. Idled car for 20 minutes with coolant reservoir cap off and climate control heater running for 20 or so minutes to expel potential air from cooling system until I received the same coolant temperature warning. Coolant level remained at topped up/correct level. Radiator fan never kicked on but did previously when completing lifter bedding process. Please advise with anything that might help me figure this out. Thank you! I have no CEL or anything.
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Old Jan 7, 2025 | 12:04 PM
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Probably your thermostat. Did you drain the coolant before you did the letters for some reason?
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Old Jan 7, 2025 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by deadlyvt
Probably your thermostat. Did you drain the coolant before you did the letters for some reason?
Did not touch coolant since was not doing headbolts. Only thing I did to cooling system was temporarily hold hoses gently out of the way for access if anything. Based on what happened during the first start of the engine, I feel like the thermostat was working. The fluid appeared to have been shunted out of the reservoir and the hoses were hot which I thought would indicate that thermostat was hitting threshold to open. Is there a surefire way to confirm function or dysfunction of thermostat? I wouldn't be bothered to replace it since it's cheap and accessible from the top anyway. I'm nearing the replacement interval as well off the top of my head. Thanks.
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Old Jan 7, 2025 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ryan72
Did not touch coolant since was not doing headbolts. Only thing I did to cooling system was temporarily hold hoses gently out of the way for access if anything. Based on what happened during the first start of the engine, I feel like the thermostat was working. The fluid appeared to have been shunted out of the reservoir and the hoses were hot which I thought would indicate that thermostat was hitting threshold to open. Is there a surefire way to confirm function or dysfunction of thermostat? I wouldn't be bothered to replace it since it's cheap and accessible from the top anyway. I'm nearing the replacement interval as well off the top of my head. Thanks.
You can take it out and put it in a pot on the oven and heat it up until it's boiling... see if it opens or not. The hoses can still heat up just not enough flow to keep the engine cool as it has a bypass that always slows some coolant to flow
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Old Jan 7, 2025 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by deadlyvt
You can take it out and put it in a pot on the oven and heat it up until it's boiling... see if it opens or not. The hoses can still heat up just not enough flow to keep the engine cool as it has a bypass that always slows some coolant to flow
Is OBD going to read anything that would tell me about the thermostat? I'd rather confirm it before removing it since I'll have to drop all coolant and remove the PS reservoir as well. Thanks again.
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Old Jan 7, 2025 | 04:25 PM
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How long have you had the car before doing this recent work? If not something you just picked up, ever get a low coolant light before?

Also, if in the affected range, are the head bolts original?

The lifter / cam adjuster jobs have nothing to do with the cooling system, so it seems unusual for this to suddenly appear.

Are you sure there are no leaks from moving the hoses around?

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Old Jan 7, 2025 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by HLG600
How long have you had the car before doing this recent work? If not something you just picked up, ever get a low coolant light before?

Also, if in the affected range, are the head bolts original?

The lifter / cam adjuster jobs have nothing to do with the cooling system, so it seems unusual for this to suddenly appear.

Are you sure there are no leaks from moving the hoses around?
Had the car a year, no low coolant lights, head bolts are the updated version confirmed via inspection while I was in the head (it's a 2014 car anyway). The only thing I interacted with beyond touching in the cooling system is the radiator fan because I needed my socket to clear the crank bolt, which worked again (radiator fan) after the first start procedure. I know that the systems I was working in don't really cross paths so I was extremely confused as to why any of this is happening. I'm going to run OBD when I get home from work to see if it tells me anything. There was a lot of suction at the oil cap this morning while the car was idling. I don't remember if that was normal or indicates anything. I haven't identified any leaks while looking over it with a flashlight this morning but I will keep looking.
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Old Jan 7, 2025 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ryan72
Had the car a year, no low coolant lights, head bolts are the updated version confirmed via inspection while I was in the head (it's a 2014 car anyway). The only thing I interacted with beyond touching in the cooling system is the radiator fan because I needed my socket to clear the crank bolt, which worked again (radiator fan) after the first start procedure. I know that the systems I was working in don't really cross paths so I was extremely confused as to why any of this is happening. I'm going to run OBD when I get home from work to see if it tells me anything. There was a lot of suction at the oil cap this morning while the car was idling. I don't remember if that was normal or indicates anything. I haven't identified any leaks while looking over it with a flashlight this morning but I will keep looking.
Odd situation for sure. Shot in the dark guess is that one of those hoses / connections was disturbed enough to cause a small leak, but more troubleshooting is needed.

Pressurizing the cooling system and checking for leaks would be a good step to take.

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Old Jan 7, 2025 | 09:50 PM
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For sure a pain to check the thermostat honestly just replace it for the $60 or whatever they are if you want to try it. They do fail randomly out of no where... although would be a weird coincidence that you just happen to have the car apart to. Nothing else seems to fit the bill though for why it would be overheating now. Unless you have a sensor gone and it's reading incorrectly but usually they read incorrectly as soon as you start the car as well. Did you check the temperature from the amg screen in the dash and or using the obd port through a diagnostic reader? Soemtimes they will read a different value and show the sensor has failed
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Old Jan 8, 2025 | 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by deadlyvt
For sure a pain to check the thermostat honestly just replace it for the $60 or whatever they are if you want to try it. They do fail randomly out of no where... although would be a weird coincidence that you just happen to have the car apart to. Nothing else seems to fit the bill though for why it would be overheating now. Unless you have a sensor gone and it's reading incorrectly but usually they read incorrectly as soon as you start the car as well. Did you check the temperature from the amg screen in the dash and or using the obd port through a diagnostic reader? Soemtimes they will read a different value and show the sensor has failed
So the coolant temperature reads normally on the dash and stays the same, it used to run about 195 deg F with daily use. Now when the car idles to warm temperature it reaches 195-197 and stays around there. But the vertical coolant gauge that goes from 0-60-120 (overheat), the arrow continues to rise while the digital reading stays the same. No idea what that indicates. The OBD I ordered got delayed so I didn't receive it in time to run it last night but I'm about to check it out this morning. A sensor may be malfunctioning but the high temperature warning was not in error. It was in fact hotter than I've ever seen or felt it get.
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Old Jan 8, 2025 | 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by HLG600
Odd situation for sure. Shot in the dark guess is that one of those hoses / connections was disturbed enough to cause a small leak, but more troubleshooting is needed.

Pressurizing the cooling system and checking for leaks would be a good step to take.
Any special way to go about checking for leaks? The level in reservoir stayed the same throughout idle. I attempted to burp the system expecting the res level to drop for reason of expelling potential air but it never dropped. Visually I haven't found one. There is some residual oil/smoke on the driver side of the bay when running but the valve covers/cam adjuster covers dropped some oil onto the manifold when I was removing them so I can't tell if the liquid is new or old. When I turned the car off yesterday morning I just recalled hearing a sort of dripping sound from that side (around/inside/towards the wheel well it almost sounded like) and the audible texture sounded thinner/watery but again I was not able to see it anywhere.

Thank you guys for taking the time to answer my questions I very much appreciate it.
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Old Jan 8, 2025 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ryan72
Any special way to go about checking for leaks? The level in reservoir stayed the same throughout idle. I attempted to burp the system expecting the res level to drop for reason of expelling potential air but it never dropped. Visually I haven't found one. There is some residual oil/smoke on the driver side of the bay when running but the valve covers/cam adjuster covers dropped some oil onto the manifold when I was removing them so I can't tell if the liquid is new or old. When I turned the car off yesterday morning I just recalled hearing a sort of dripping sound from that side (around/inside/towards the wheel well it almost sounded like) and the audible texture sounded thinner/watery but again I was not able to see it anywhere.

Thank you guys for taking the time to answer my questions I very much appreciate it.
On a cold engine, there's a tester cap you can install on the expansion tank, which connects to a pump to pressurize the system.

Procedure from WIS attached. Basically, you remove the shields / trays, pressurize the system and start inspecting carefully for leaks.

Unfortunately, I'm not aware of a universal tester kit that works with the M156, which I learned the hard way in the middle of diagnosing something, prompting me to order the MB-specific tools.

If by chance you're local to NJ, happy to help you out.

Otherwise, your options are to find a compatible kit, order the MB one (part numbers in the attachment) or take it to an independent shop experienced with these platforms and have them check the system out.

A different route would be to add a special coolant dye to the system, put some good mileage on the car, and start exploring the engine bay / underside with a UV light.

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