When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I recently the proud owner of a 09 C63 (130,000 km) and I'm reaching out for advice.
First thing I did when I came home with the car was to open the valve covers and see what I was dealing with. Without surprise the head bolt job hasn't been done so I ordered a set of new head bolts that will be installed in the next few weeks.
However, while inspecting the the valvetrain I check the camshaft lobes and found out that 2 lobes on the driver intake cam are rough at their extremity (nail is catching the grooves) and 1 lobe is similar on the passenger intake cam. Both exhaust cams look fine. I don't know what the lifters condition look like because I haven't received my timing kit yet.
Anyhow, I've looked at some OE intake cams online and I must admit that the price for those are exuberating (Even with current BF discount). I'm already putting thousands for the whole maintenance (Transmission service, P\S pump and reservoir, HB, injectors, coil and plugs, gaskets, etc)
So my question is - Would it be safe to do the cam job next winter considering I'll be doing <5,000 km next summer?
I feel like I have 3 options in front of me at the moment:
A - Wait until next year and put additive in the oil to prevent more weariness in the lobes - Feel like the only real risk here is the cams to run through the lifters (if lifters are very worn out)
B - Since I'm doing the head bolts this winter, simply change the worn lifters for "safety" and do the cam job next year. - Will be a nice project for next winter!
C - Bite the bullet and do the cam job this winter - Can't tell the wife though
I know C is the better option but would like to assess the real risk\cost here to make an educated decision.
in my opinion i would just get on FCP euro and get your intake cams do it when your head bolts are getting completed the extra cost sucks but worth the peace of mind i don't think you will hurt anything if you wait alittle longer to do the head bolts or cams i currently sit at in my 2010 151K miles zero issues OEM head bolts, injectors, cams and adjusters also my transmission has never been serviced.
Finally went on the safe side and bought FCP intake cams kit + gaskets and everything. It cost an arm and a leg but like you said, its the price to pay to have the peace of mind.
Now waiting for all the parts to come in before starting the project.
I thought I read on here the OEM cams weren't updated to be any harder so an OEM swap is a lateral move. 🤷♂️
They are apparently the exact same as they have always been... so you are going to have pitting and wear issues even with the new ones. Kinda redundant not using something of better quality imo... unless you are just getting rid of the car in the short term
They are apparently the exact same as they have always been... so you are going to have pitting and wear issues even with the new ones. Kinda redundant not using something of better quality imo... unless you are just getting rid of the car in the short term
Yup, you'll have to replace the stock cams again after 70k~ miles. VRP cams are hard welded and coated so you wont have any issues with pitting ever again.
Yup, you'll have to replace the stock cams again after 70k~ miles. VRP cams are hard welded and coated so you wont have any issues with pitting ever again.
i would go wtih OEM cams before i went VRP or any aftermarket cams i still have yet to see back-to-back dyno runs or 1/4 mile runs on any aftermarket cams i personally would run SLS or SLS black series cams if i was supercharged both sets of cams are proven power makers just not with a factory intake manifold.
i would go wtih OEM cams before i went VRP or any aftermarket cams i still have yet to see back-to-back dyno runs or 1/4 mile runs on any aftermarket cams i personally would run SLS or SLS black series cams if i was supercharged both sets of cams are proven power makers just not with a factory intake manifold.
VRP claims 60-80whp on SCed cars with the Street cams. We'll see.
I'm eventually going to have to change my camshafts, too. Been looking at the VRP street, but was also considering the 63MS. Given current tariffs, the 63s are out.
I'm torn on which lifters to go with...SLS or SLS BS. The price difference is roughly $600-$700 between the two types. Anyone have any insight on whether the SLS BS lifters are worth it compared to the "cheaper" SLS lifters?
I'm eventually going to have to change my camshafts, too. Been looking at the VRP street, but was also considering the 63MS. Given current tariffs, the 63s are out.
I'm torn on which lifters to go with...SLS or SLS BS. The price difference is roughly $600-$700 between the two types. Anyone have any insight on whether the SLS BS lifters are worth it compared to the "cheaper" SLS lifters?
I bought the BS lifters and have read they're overkill unless you're revving to 8k or above, which I'll never do. I've already spent way too much so it is what it is at this point.
By the time I put 80k miles on that car, their will be flying cars all over our heads, so going with OEM cams is not a concern for me.
I'll babied that car with oil changes every 5k and put some lifters additive (open for debate on that cause I wasn't aware of the exitance of that product 2 weeks ago)
There are plenty of examples out there with 100-200K+ miles on original cams.
Use a high quality oil. Change it every 3K miles. Make sure your engine oil is up to temp. before you get on it. Do get on it.
It's hit or miss and while obviously regular oil changes wont hurt, none of that is known to prevent it. Not much different than the Magnesium intake manifolds disintegrating due to the aluminum heads. Some cars are affected early, and some seem unaffected at all.
It's hit or miss and while obviously regular oil changes wont hurt, none of that is known to prevent it. Not much different than the Magnesium intake manifolds disintegrating due to the aluminum heads. Some cars are affected early, and some seem unaffected at all.
this, lots of cars actually have some cam/lifter wear but don't notice any driving issues so continue driving. It's like the headbolts... not all of the early cars fail... but enough to make it an issue you should address
VRP claims 60-80whp on SCed cars with the Street cams. We'll see.
the fact that all these cams have been out this long with no public data to go off or one independent person saying hey look I put these in and said my car put more power down or i ran faster in the 1/4 mile is a flat out no for me it's not like these cams are cheap to justify just swapping back.
the fact that all these cams have been out this long with no public data to go off or one independent person saying hey look I put these in and said my car put more power down or i ran faster in the 1/4 mile is a flat out no for me it's not like these cams are cheap to justify just swapping back.
They're cheaper than going stock (per cam anyway) and hard enough to never need replacing again, so that was enough for me. I'll have before and after dynos if Weistec would send me my GD trunk tank.
You want advice for cylinderhead M156 ?
I would do this - Lets go :
Cups:
INA Partnumber: 420021710 (check by yourself the #!)
If you want take them to DLC shop and make top or complete outside.
or
buy OEM
or
buy OEM DLC version from ??? ( i forgot sorry)
camshaft:
grind OEM if possible in specialiced CS shop.
or
buy OEM
or
buy aftermarket from US company ???
camshaft control (dont know the english word)
buy complete OEM part
or
buy that aftermarket disc with pin hole only
What do you think about this solutions - any comments ?
Last edited by C63s_Jack; Feb 27, 2026 at 05:12 AM.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
