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- No gearstick. 18 months now and I still hate using the steering column stalk
- no stereo volume indicator;
- Noisy climate control
- In Comfort mode the car lugs off in second gear
- In other auto modes the car starts in first but holds gears too long for regular driving;
- In manual mode there’s no stop/start function;
- Clutch slip when driving off after using stop/start.
- Handbrake seizing every time when the car is parked overnight after wash
- hubcaps on 5 spoke star alloys falling off or being stolen because they are easily removed
- heavy steering
- Alcantara steering wheel
- Suspension’s comfort mode is not comfortable
- Can’t program race mode exhaust with everything else in comfort mode.
-my 2018 shows volume level!
-not sure what you mean by noisy climate control. Might be a problem you need to get fixed?
-holding gears too long is not a problem in other auto modes, except race. Remember its a learning TCU, so if you drive hard, it will remember your style and hold gears. If you drive it slow and easy, your auto shifting will match. You may need service on your vehicle.
-stop/start works as intended. Keep your expectations realistic and it won't even be a little nit to pick!
-I think you can option for all leather steering wheel?
-comfort suspension is pretty good, but if you're not used to MB or BMW GT cars, I know what you mean. Be sure you feel the difference in all three modes, because if you can't, you may have a problem with the control unit (it has been reported before), and it can be fixed.
If you feel the car rides too firm, and you don't like performance materials (alcantara), and gears are held too long, steering too heavy, and you enjoy stop/start, it might be there is a different car out there that fits you better, because the AMG's, and the M cars are built to be very sporty driving cars!
- No gearstick. 18 months now and I still hate using the steering column stalk
- no stereo volume indicator;
- Noisy climate control
- In Comfort mode the car lugs off in second gear
- In other auto modes the car starts in first but holds gears too long for regular driving;
- In manual mode there’s no stop/start function;
- Clutch slip when driving off after using stop/start.
- Handbrake seizing every time when the car is parked overnight after wash
- hubcaps on 5 spoke star alloys falling off or being stolen because they are easily removed
- heavy steering
- Alcantara steering wheel
- Suspension’s comfort mode is not comfortable
- Can’t program race mode exhaust with everything else in comfort mode.
Gear lever was one of my concerns when I bought but now it is the way I want all to be.
My sedan has no vol indicator and I would like one
No noisy climate here
Comfort works like it should but I never have it in comfort so who caes
It only holds too long in race (for normal driving)
why would you want Manual and start stop --seems not to be related
don't be in comfort and no problem
never had brake freeze but drive it some after wash
hubcaps don't lock very tight but mine have never come off--you can remove and put cap in center
steering is just right like a performance car should be--sounds like maybe that is not what you should have
steering wheel is great but does take a little maintenance to keep looking good
I agree that MB should have comfort suspension somewhat softer
again race and comfort don't seem to mix
- No gearstick. 18 months now and I still hate using the steering column stalk
- no stereo volume indicator;
- Noisy climate control
- In Comfort mode the car lugs off in second gear
- In other auto modes the car starts in first but holds gears too long for regular driving;
- In manual mode there’s no stop/start function;
- Clutch slip when driving off after using stop/start.
- Handbrake seizing every time when the car is parked overnight after wash
- hubcaps on 5 spoke star alloys falling off or being stolen because they are easily removed
- heavy steering
- Alcantara steering wheel
- Suspension’s comfort mode is not comfortable
- Can’t program race mode exhaust with everything else in comfort mode.
I'd suspect that it's not the "handbrake" seizing after washing, but the pads sticking to the rotors due to rust. Happens on many cars. Also, I find the Comfort suspension mode perfect; I drive in Sport on horrible New England highways usually but switch to Comfort in the winter when frost heaves get bad.
I'd suspect that it's not the "handbrake" seizing after washing, but the pads sticking to the calipers due to rust. Happens on many cars. Also, I find the Comfort suspension mode perfect; I drive in Sport on horrible New England highways usually but switch to Comfort in the winter when frost heaves get bad.
Yes, pads sticking after a wash is common on all cars I've had.
-my 2018 shows volume level!
-not sure what you mean by noisy climate control. Might be a problem you need to get fixed?
-holding gears too long is not a problem in other auto modes, except race. Remember its a learning TCU, so if you drive hard, it will remember your style and hold gears. If you drive it slow and easy, your auto shifting will match. You may need service on your vehicle.
-stop/start works as intended. Keep your expectations realistic and it won't even be a little nit to pick!
-I think you can option for all leather steering wheel?
-comfort suspension is pretty good, but if you're not used to MB or BMW GT cars, I know what you mean. Be sure you feel the difference in all three modes, because if you can't, you may have a problem with the control unit (it has been reported before), and it can be fixed.
If you feel the car rides too firm, and you don't like performance materials (alcantara), and gears are held too long, steering too heavy, and you enjoy stop/start, it might be there is a different car out there that fits you better, because the AMG's, and the M cars are built to be very sporty driving cars!
I agree the car may not be suitable for me and I may need to move it on in the next year or so, even though I will miss that engine.
Glad that they fixed the volume indicator issue.
The noisy climate is not a fault, just the noise of the air coming out of the vents is very noticeable compared to my others cars.
As for the transmission, the issue is not about on-throttle behaviour, I’m happy with that. I am talking about off-throttle gear holds after a burst of speed. The transmission seems to assume that hard driving should always be followed by off-throttle gear holds. That’s sometimes true for the track, but in a speed limited suburban environment there is rarely a need to accelerate a second time after a big burst of speed. It would be nice if the transmission shifted into a higher gear when releasing the throttle, like autos had always done until about 10 years ago. Instead, the transmission holds second gear for several seconds and the engine sounds like it is going to remove itself from the chassis. I usually use the paddles to shift up in these situations but then I’m stuck using manual mode.
As for stop/start, I agree it’s hard to make it work in a dual clutch auto. These systems work best with traditional torque converter autos.
As for the transmission, the issue is not about on-throttle behaviour, I’m happy with that. I am talking about off-throttle gear holds after a burst of speed. The transmission seems to assume that hard driving should always be followed by off-throttle gear holds. That’s sometimes true for the track, but in a speed limited suburban environment there is rarely a need to accelerate a second time after a big burst of speed. It would be nice if the transmission shifted into a higher gear when releasing the throttle, like autos had always done until about 10 years ago. Instead, the transmission holds second gear for several seconds and the engine sounds like it is going to remove itself from the chassis. I usually use the paddles to shift up in these situations but then I’m stuck using manual mode.
I for one am extremely thankful they started programming the shifts to hold a gear after you left off the throttle, and there is one major reason that I'm sure is reasoning behind why they do it.
It prevents the transmission from upshifting mid-corner.
The absolute worst thing about older automatics is that they'd immediately upshift when off throttle, and it completely ruined any chance of going through a corner properly and being in the proper gear on exit.
recently took delivery of a 2018 c63s amg coupe.......
-passenger window would not automatically go up all the way.....seemed to be a stiff rubber window seal.....applied some 303 protectant inside of the window channel and the issue was fixed if at least temporarily.
-maybe a 20% success rate utilizing the "easy access" trunk opening feature......stand a foot away from the bumper.....place foot underneath valance/rear bumper, nothing.....move it around....nothing. this bugs me.
-the (front) parking sensor warning lights on the dash......are completely obscured by the positioning of my steering wheel.......poorly thought out. i get a audible warning beep in reverse, but not in forward/drive. does it only make a sound if over so many bars?
-the ECU being so hidden in the engine compartment. from a design perspective, i don't get that at all. are we being charged extra service hours when and if it has to be accessed?
i'm one to nit pick everything, but thus far that's it.
recently took delivery of a 2018 c63s amg coupe.......
-passenger window would not automatically go up all the way.....seemed to be a stiff rubber window seal.....applied some 303 protectant inside of the window channel and the issue was fixed if at least temporarily.
-maybe a 20% success rate utilizing the "easy access" trunk opening feature......stand a foot away from the bumper.....place foot underneath valance/rear bumper, nothing.....move it around....nothing. this bugs me.
-the (front) parking sensor warning lights on the dash......are completely obscured by the positioning of my steering wheel.......poorly thought out. i get a audible warning beep in reverse, but not in forward/drive. does it only make a sound if over so many bars?
-the ECU being so hidden in the engine compartment. from a design perspective, i don't get that at all. are we being charged extra service hours when and if it has to be accessed?
i'm one to nit pick everything, but thus far that's it.
Not entirely sure about this but the window prob could be due to the auto slight up/down window movement on entry/exit just like it is on all convertibles now that the C205 has gone to frame less doors unlike the previous C204 coupes.
I agree with the warning lights - definitely a backward step compared to the previous 204 series which had a nice big separate indicator up top in the centre of the dash, hopeflly with the digital dashes coming on the update it's a better arrangement.
ECU hidden away IMHO is purporesly done to discourage people/tuners messing with it - for obvious reasons.
Hope all else goes well, would be great if you don't get any rattles and squeaks which is a common thing with this 205 series.
.......
Hope all else goes well, would be great if you don't get any rattles and squeaks which is a common thing with this 205 series.
thank you.....and you reminded me of the dreaded rattle/squeaking i have over my left shoulder (driver's seat).......around the top of the interior door cover where it meets the glass.....i think.....ugh!
I agree the car may not be suitable for me and I may need to move it on in the next year or so, even though I will miss that engine.
Glad that they fixed the volume indicator issue.
The noisy climate is not a fault, just the noise of the air coming out of the vents is very noticeable compared to my others cars.
As for the transmission, the issue is not about on-throttle behaviour, I’m happy with that. I am talking about off-throttle gear holds after a burst of speed. The transmission seems to assume that hard driving should always be followed by off-throttle gear holds. That’s sometimes true for the track, but in a speed limited suburban environment there is rarely a need to accelerate a second time after a big burst of speed. It would be nice if the transmission shifted into a higher gear when releasing the throttle, like autos had always done until about 10 years ago. Instead, the transmission holds second gear for several seconds and the engine sounds like it is going to remove itself from the chassis. I usually use the paddles to shift up in these situations but then I’m stuck using manual mode.
As for stop/start, I agree it’s hard to make it work in a dual clutch auto. These systems work best with traditional torque converter autos.
Just a couple of corrections here:
The trans is not a dual clutch
You are not stuck in manual if you shift up, as you do when it is not shifting when you want it to.In a BMW dual clutch this is the case but not in the C63S
Also holding the shift is a very positive feature and as you say you can anytime shift yourself .Alot of the time I drive in race and you have to shift with the paddles unless you go to redline.
In race everything is faster -Louder and better -After the soft wear update to the traction control to save the differential it is not neutered in any way and probably better using launch control.
I purchased my 2018 C63S Coupe a approximately 4 months ago and I've encountered 2 major issues so far:
1. The passenger window would not automatically go up all the way. It would go 3/4 of the way and go back down. I brought to the dealer and they fixed the issue under warranty. Below is an image to what was performed diagnostic-wised:
2. I noticed that a small section of the paint (located at the quarter panel north above the gas cap) is bubbling. I brought it to the dealer and initially, the director of the service department tried to tell me that this is a scratch and was filled in. I respectfully argued back with him and pointed out the difference between a scratch and my issue. It was bubbling from the factory paint. In the end, they confirmed that this is a flaw from the factory and they are working on fixing this issue. I will post a picture of the work performed once I received the car. I dropped it off at the dealer today.
P.S - If anyone is in the Boston area, Mercedes-Benz of Burlington is probably one of the best dealer I've ever worked with. They are great. Do not go to Mercedes-Benz of Boston (located in Somerville). They are bad. Simply the worst customer service I've ever had.
Last edited by johnstahhh; 11-14-2018 at 08:00 PM.
So I’m new to the forum and going to revive this thread if that’s ok?? I’ve had my 2017 C63S for a year an a half now, bought lightly used... love that depreciation!!
Has 30k miles, mostly highway in Southern California. I drive spirited but not like a maniac all the time. I’ve basically had all the rattle issues noted from all the other posts, rattles from the pano roof, dash etc. however the issue that is catching most of my attention is a turbo whine that started about a month ago. As the car nears redline in S or S+ mode, I started to notice a small turbo whine. Dealer says “normal”.
Driving a bit hard today 89 degrees F, the turbo whine was much more noticeable and beginning around 5rpm. There doesn’t seem to be any power loss, however the sound is really making me think that there is a possible turbo bearing issue. Not one of the posts mentioned any turbo issues with this car so just wondering if anyone else hears the turbo whine from
5k on at full throttle.
Differential lock fault you need to check the oil in lock iv had same issue benz
Originally Posted by 7th_gear
Oh dear, it's back
Taking the car in tomorrow... anyone having this issue recurring?
Differential lock
I had same fault know the car has broken down Brentford benz refused to cover under warranty they serviced the car twice had a look at it said all is fine 8 months later the lock is completely faulty you need them to check if oil was changed at 3k
Squeak coming from dash board when the weather is cold.
I had the same thing, rattle/squeak coming from a dashboard. Although, I had it constantly regardless the mode or weather. When I took it to a dealer, they could not fix it and told me some bs. So, I took it to an AMG certified dealer and they fixed it the first time. I don't have any issues with my dashboard anymore.
I’ve not read about any cylinder shut off/injector CELs on the C63 like I’ve seen on the w213 E63 forum. Even caused a good number of buy backs on those cars.
Rattles at 2k miles. Took everything apart and 100% fixed all rattles. Steering/alignment problems. Steering keep going off center after 1 to 2 weeks and I keep loosing alignment after 2 weeks. Dealer said it’s dead center. Going to replace bushing on steering rack and other suspension components in hope to solved off centered steering problems. Other then that no mechanical problems, engine check lights, misfired or anything. I also have pure900 turbos and catless dp for about 10k miles. Car still feels pretty bulletproof
Very appreciative of this thread. I am currently tossing up bw a c63s and an m3. I must say, i find it quite disconcerning to hear that so many people are finding issues with these $100k cars after owning/driving them for such a small amount of time (M3 is worse with its defective crank hub defect). Ive owned a wide range of japanese cars my whole life and i guess i have really underappreciated the reliability / build quality that i took for granted. Do yoy guys have regrets with the car, or are all the niggles outweighed by the enjoyment of ownership?
Do yoy guys have regrets with the car, or are all the niggles outweighed by the enjoyment of ownership?
After owning the car for about 1/2 a year now I'm starting to scratch my head a bit more regarding my decision. Maybe more so the (potential) cost of ownership outweighing enjoyment... The upkeep costs are pretty steep relative to japanese and american cars, and modification is very expensive. A lot more than I had imagined. I mean, $160 for an oil change? Can't imagine the cost if something actually fails on me...
Last week my car decided to shift oddly, but only intermittently. There's a slight hesitation for a split second after it shifts - happens in every mode, from comfort to race, and irrespective of throttle percentage. But not all of the time. Some days it's fine. Other days it creeps up. Some days it's fine for half my drive, then it kicks in for the latter half.
Very appreciative of this thread. I am currently tossing up bw a c63s and an m3. I must say, i find it quite disconcerning to hear that so many people are finding issues with these $100k cars after owning/driving them for such a small amount of time (M3 is worse with its defective crank hub defect). Ive owned a wide range of japanese cars my whole life and i guess i have really underappreciated the reliability / build quality that i took for granted. Do yoy guys have regrets with the car, or are all the niggles outweighed by the enjoyment of ownership?
On my 2016 C63s , I could NOT imagine having a different car... I 100000% percent get a super smile everytime I drive it. with respect to cost of ownership, I dont see it being any more then other higher end sports cars.
(my ferrari's etc had same cost, expenses as well)
Yes, if you can DIY on some items it saves some cash, and I like to do as much as possible myself, as it lets you see the car, and if there are other items. (plus its a bit of fun)
Yes.. its more expensive to service the car, because it is running at tighter tolerances etc, and requires more specific things.. but again, not that much of a difference. (yea, your not going to take it to Jiffy Lube...)
Hi everybody,
I have a 2018 c63s wagon.
I bought it used at 28k kilometers. I have owned it for 9 months and i regret nothing. Money well spent.
I drove it for 15k kilometers now.
What saddens me is the cost of modifications, as everything is extremely pricey. I am thinking of buying Renntech exhaust, Renntech blowoff valves, Renntech ECU tune and possibly Eventuri intakes. I am still quite unsure whether to get it or not due extremely high prices of these items.
Issues i have experienced:
-Sunroof rattle, dashboard rattle, overhead console rattle.
-The need for an alignment, as the steering wheel was not centered anymore
-Wear of leather on bucket seats although i take good care of them
-Wear of a chrome trim-piece near the center console
-A small stone getting stuck in between my brake caliper and rim. This has resulted in scuffing of the inside of my 2000 euro rim. I have the forged wheels and carbon ceramic brakes which were a pricey option as we all know.
-Add oil messages twice- now i got to know to check my dipstick before i add that oil. However i checked it now and it is in three quarters of its range.
-Ease of scratching the interior carbon trim
-Now i have noticed a clicking sound in the left front of the car, i do not know where it is coming from directly, but i will go get it checked out. It doesnt increase with rising revs of the engine, and it appears when the car is both warmed up and cold.
It has got me pretty scared as my car has recently ran out of warranty. We will see what is what very soon.
Very appreciative of this thread. I am currently tossing up bw a c63s and an m3. I must say, i find it quite disconcerning to hear that so many people are finding issues with these $100k cars after owning/driving them for such a small amount of time (M3 is worse with its defective crank hub defect). Ive owned a wide range of japanese cars my whole life and i guess i have really underappreciated the reliability / build quality that i took for granted. Do yoy guys have regrets with the car, or are all the niggles outweighed by the enjoyment of ownership?
I haven't had an issue on my coupe besides the software recalls and peeling around the sensor on the carbon fiber rear diffuser which was replaced under warranty without issue. 100% the best car I have owned no question and I was a BMW car guy before.. I can't see myself ever going back to BMW.
01-24-2018, 10:30 AM
