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Thanks for the video. BUT --- 11K needs brakes?? You must be really bombing into the corners!
Nice Car.
The traction/skid control uses the brakes quite a bit to keep everything proper, so you'll go through a set of rear pads pretty quickly if you are activating the systems.
I needed rear pads at 16K miles. That's when the warning came up on the dash, and I don't know the exact % left on the pads (forgot to ask). I have a pretty heavy right foot though, and I'd say 95% of my driving is city mileage.
Can you tell me if those sensors are needed to be purchased as well as pads.
I dont have a replace warning yet but could tell my pads are getting close to that point.
Another thing is did you have to press those pots in or use specific caliper wind back tool?
Thanks in advance!
Can you tell me if those sensors are needed to be purchased as well as pads.
I dont have a replace warning yet but could tell my pads are getting close to that point.
Another thing is did you have to press those pots in or use specific caliper wind back tool?
Thanks in advance!
There is only one sensor per axel (front and back) no sensor it's needed if you change the pads before you get to them. (Warning light) One thing is that you gotta be careful when transferring the sensor from old pad to the new pad as they are very fragile.
Good luck and if you got any question let me know.
I got some porterfield r4s rear pads today. I paused after taking them out of the box. Anyone know what that silver cylinder is for? The pad on the left is my factory rear outer side pad with the adhesive on it. The pad on the right is the porterfield equivalent. Did I get the wrong pads or is this supposed to be this way? It looks like it will fit into the caliper but just wondered if others ran into this before.
Threw me for a little curveball to when I first pulled them out of the box. You'll notice the caliber has a cavity for those discs to slide into. Must have something to do with anti-vibration, squeal, or heat dissipation? And if you're doing the pad change yourself which is very easy, don't forget to read the procedure on rear brake pad replacement so you can put your parking brake in Removal mode.
Threw me for a little curveball to when I first pulled them out of the box. You'll notice the caliber has a cavity for those discs to slide into. Must have something to do with anti-vibration, squeal, or heat dissipation? And if you're doing the pad change yourself which is very easy, don't forget to read the procedure on rear brake pad replacement so you can put your parking brake in Removal mode.
Thanks again man. Yea I did the brake fit positioning thing through the console first. And looks like the pads fit in the cavity. I had to stop midway and backpedal though because I had the wrong spreader. Just wonder what that thing is for.
Do the pads make any more and/or different noises compared to oem? I had bought some lube for the pads beforehand..now I'm not so sure where/what to lube.
Thanks again man. Yea I did the brake fit positioning thing through the console first. And looks like the pads fit in the cavity. I had to stop midway and backpedal though because I had the wrong spreader. Just wonder what that thing is for.
Do the pads make any more and/or different noises compared to oem? I had bought some lube for the pads beforehand..now I'm not so sure where/what to lube.
I've changed mine about 2k miles ago no noises and much less dust while braking is the same as OEM.
Mine was due for new rotors as well in all 4 corners, working on this car was a joy.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
