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Did I hurt your feelings? It seems like it. You can't stop talking.
Piggyback to get 600hp to the wheels? What are you even saying dude? It is now clear that you have no idea what you're talking about. 510 to the wheel is the MOST you will ever get from a tune only or a piggyback. And for me, it is VERY far from being enough for a DD. FYI, you need upgraded turbos to get 600 to the wheel.
Please stop spreading misinformation, and more importantly, stop trying to speak for everyone and stick to what you have actually experienced.
If you didn't want this thread to go off-topic this much, you could've kept classy without bashing my post that offered a nice, cheap alternative for people that wanted more sound AND power. You are just a classless party pooper.
Reading comprehension > you
600 hp sent to the rear wheels. As in RWD, not AWD. No one is making 600 WHEEL horsepower on stock turbos. But 600 HP (what a standard tune or piggy will get you) to the crank on a RWD car is about the limit for a daily driver.
Look at the new M5 or the E63S. If traction wasn't an issue at those power levels, you think BMW or MB still would have opted to add all that weight over the front axle for no reason?
If the C63S had AWD, I would say the sky's the limit for power... but that's not the case for a front engine, RWD car. Mid-engine, rear engine, even a front engine with a transaxle would be much better for traction.
Last edited by AlexZTuned; Sep 10, 2017 at 12:27 PM.
600 hp sent to the rear wheels. As in RWD, not AWD. No one is making 600 WHEEL horsepower on stock turbos. But 600 HP (what a standard tune or piggy will get you) to the crank on a RWD car is about the limit for a daily driver.
Look at the new M5 or the E63S. If traction wasn't an issue at those power levels, you think BMW or MB stillwould have opted to add all that weight over the front axle for no reason?
You are right. I read that too quickly. I stand corrected.
From a dig, traction is an issue in any RWD car, including a 675LT and a P1.
If we're talking about traction, I think you're first to admit that it's easy to break traction, even at stock power output.
That by itself isn't a reason to be happy with a measly 600hp. I don't live at the 1/4 mile and this problem is easily fixed with a pair of sticky tires like you've mentioned previously.
I've been DDing my 750hp+ C63S for quite some time now and traction wise, I can live with it just fine. On stock tires!
I don't agree with your assertion stating that 600hp crank is the limit for a daily driver. You are, again, making assumptions for everyone. Maybe invest in some driver ED classes?
But yes sir, it is clear that you suffer from the Napoleon complex, therefore, I'll leave it at that. I will not be contributing to polluting this thread and entertaining you any further.
You are right. I read that too quickly. I stand corrected.
From a dig, traction is an issue in any RWD car, including a 675LT and a P1.
If we're talking about traction, I think you're first to admit that it's easy to break traction, even at stock power output.
That by itself isn't a reason to be happy with a measly 600hp. I don't live at the 1/4 mile and this problem is easily fixed with a pair of sticky tires like you've mentioned previously.
I've been DDing my 750hp+ C63S for quite some time now and traction wise, I can live with it just fine. On stock tires!
I don't agree with your assertion stating that 600hp crank is the limit for a daily driver. You are, again, making assumptions for everyone. Maybe invest in some driver ED classes?
But yes sir, it is clear that you suffer from the Napoleon complex, therefore, I'll leave it at that. I will not be contributing to polluting this thread and entertaining you any further.
My local shop (Fresno, Ca) is quoting me $700 for the secondary cat delete. This seems a bit steep compared to what everyone else has paid.. Anyone recommend a shop in SoCal or NorCal?
My local shop (Fresno, Ca) is quoting me $700 for the secondary cat delete. This seems a bit steep compared to what everyone else has paid.. Anyone recommend a shop in SoCal or NorCal?
If you're looking for cheap and honest, contact these guys:
My local shop (Fresno, Ca) is quoting me $700 for the secondary cat delete. This seems a bit steep compared to what everyone else has paid.. Anyone recommend a shop in SoCal or NorCal?
That's obscene. Ask for an estimate as to how many hours of labor/ what their rates are. Mine took ~3 hours plus the two pieces of exhaust piping. Exact bill was $300. Welds are on point and not a hack job. Tight quarters and little room for error as I can imagine what an exhaust leak there would sound like/smell like.
That's obscene. Ask for an estimate as to how many hours of labor/ what their rates are. Mine took ~3 hours plus the two pieces of exhaust piping. Exact bill was $300. Welds are on point and not a hack job. Tight quarters and little room for error as I can imagine what an exhaust leak there would sound like/smell like.
Yeah definitely gonna have to get a full breakdown to see why they're charging so much.
I Just ordered my 2018 c63s coupe and I added the perf exhaust system and I'm a bit of noob when it comes to exhaust but should I add Weistec downpipes with 2nd cats removed and with some ECU tuning?
I Just ordered my 2018 c63s coupe and I added the perf exhaust system and I'm a bit of noob when it comes to exhaust but should I add Weistec downpipes with 2nd cats removed and with some ECU tuning?
I recommend the removal of the secondary cats as there is no negatives just heaps of benefits, Better fuel economy, slight increase in performance and best of all 20% increase in sound. No ECU tuning required at all as no change in telematics.
As for the downpipes that's a decision you need to make, short of warranty concerns, if its just replacing the angled piece left by removing the second cats, then just stainless steel inserts tig welded in should be suffice...Note an exhaust shop would need to carry out the work.
To make it crackle a lot does the ECU tune come in part?
By removing the secondary cats, you will experience a lot more crackle in each sports mode, in particular Sport + and Race modes. Even in Comfort mode you'll here a nice burble and small crackles in the lower gears when slowing down.
Re-tuning the ECU to inject more fuel will result in more serious crackles, however warranty comes into play there not to mention sound regulations. I would suggest remove the S/Cats first as I think you'll be really satisfied.
Thanks that helped a lot for me im not selling my car or anything there is no lease i just want some serious crackles and sounds but this forum helps for noobs like me
I had mine done after I spoken with MB, and there didn't seem to be any concerns relating to Warranty.....If the exhaust itself had a manufacturing default, then it may raise some questions around the possible cause of the fault and whether or not the secondary cats removal was in some way responsible. As far as all other components and electrical systems are concerned, it will not void any warranty.
I'm led to believe that the secondary cats were necessary for some countries to comply with strict Emission control standards like in California, so unless you live there knock yourself out.
Note: I had the secondary Cats removed and fitted 12 mm spacers and the car sounds fantastic and the widened track just gives it a OEM feel without going too far
I had mine done after I spoken with MB, and there didn't seem to be any concerns relating to Warranty.....If the exhaust itself had a manufacturing default, then it may raise some questions around the possible cause of the fault and whether or not the secondary cats removal was in some way responsible. As far as all other components and electrical systems are concerned, it will not void any warranty.
I'm led to believe that the secondary cats were necessary for some countries to comply with strict Emission control standards like in California, so unless you live there knock yourself out.
Note: I had the secondary Cats removed and fitted 12 mm spacers and the car sounds fantastic and the widened track just gives it a OEM feel without going too far
Thanks for the reply, def will be my 1st mod when my car gets here. Are there any companies that do any pre-fab ones or is it just a straight pipe from the exhaust shop?
Thanks for the reply, def will be my 1st mod when my car gets here. Are there any companies that do any pre-fab ones or is it just a straight pipe from the exhaust shop?
Any exhaust shop should be able to manufacture a stainless steel angled piece in house. The exhaust shop I used was know to C63s owners and they completed around a dozen or so before I got mine done. The whole job should take no more than around 3-4 hours.
Planning on getting this done soon... any recommendations on how to get it done? Specifically, I can see how a performance shop can easily cut out the secondary cat, but how do they weld the new section back in place?? I don't see any way for them to actually access the top half of the exhaust, as it's so wedged up there... do any of you have any insight in how it's been done on your cars? Thanks.
I just had mine done a couple of weeks ago at Eurocharged Toronto.
They did it pretty easily and it only took a couple hours.
I did something similar in my E92 M3 and the difference was night/day. The increase for my C63S was less than I imagined, but I'm still very happy I did it! It's the middle of winter here, so I haven't driven the car in the same way I would in the summer. I'm sure when summertime comes and I boot it harder, it's going to sound even better!
Yeah that's just crazy.. I don't see how they can weld that area that is right up against the heat shield, but I guess they are pros. Thanks for the pics!
great thread, very useful. the question i have is the same that some other gent had, which is, "does it change the loudness, AT STARTUP, with the valves closed?" I understand that the loudness is NOT changed at idle with the valves closed, but the answer read that it may actually increase the decibels at startup, which in my case would be bad given the hour of the day that i leave for work.
can anyone please confirm that the volume is louder, at startup (while in cold start mode), even with the valves closed?
..."does it change the loudness, AT STARTUP, with the valves closed?" I understand that the loudness is NOT changed at idle with the valves closed, but the answer read that it may actually increase the decibels at startup, which in my case would be bad given the hour of the day that i leave for work.
can anyone please confirm that the volume is louder, at startup (while in cold start mode), even with the valves closed?
From what I had read before doing it, I was under the impression that cold starts would be much louder without the secondary cats. I read that this was one of the reasons why the secondary cats existed in the first place, to help catch stray emissions and quiet the exhaust on a cold start.
Now that I got it done, I can definitely say that this is NOT true. Cold start isn't noticeably louder after doing this with the valves closed.
When cruising at highway speeds 90 MPH (145 km/h) there is no drone. I noticed now that opening and closing the valves while cruising, I don't notice any difference in sound.
Before the mod, I could notice a difference in sound when pressing the button while cruising at highway speed. I actually thought the shop might have unplugged my exhaust from the switch during the modification process!
Then I stomped on the gas and hit the button and noticed a huge difference in sound and thought "nevermind, it still works". This is perfect for me, because I don't want the exhaust to be louder while cruising on the highway, but as soon as I open up the throttle, I can hear the power much more!
I would definitely recommend this mod for anyone who loves the stock sound and wants just a little more volume (more bass especially) with no compromises (no loud start, no droning on the highway etc.). It won't satisfy anyone looking for a huge increase in volume. But it won't leave anyone with "regret" after doing it either.
I'm stuck right in the middle, I want even more sound, but at the same time, I don't want to draw too much attention to myself either. I decided I'm going to leave it like this, since I like to have my fun and fly under the radar so to speak.
........I would definitely recommend this mod for anyone who loves the stock sound and wants just a little more volume (more bass especially) with no compromises (no loud start, no droning on the highway etc.). It won't satisfy anyone looking for a huge increase in volume. But it won't leave anyone with "regret" after doing it either.......
Thank you. That's exactly what i wanted to hear (along with it not making it louder at cold start/valves closed), and exactly what i'm after. I am in love with the stock sound (specifically the tone), don't want it any higher pitched or more raspy (don't even care for more crackle/pop overrun), but i would prefer it to be decibel louder.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
