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Do you remember if it was one or both pipes? They're all cleaned and bathed before powder coating, so it's very odd to see that still there.
I'll take a closer look and check some of them out when I get into the office.
Do you remember if it was one or both pipes? They're all cleaned and bathed before powder coating, so it's very odd to see that still there.
I'll take a closer look and check some of them out when I get into the office.
BMS Intake installed.
No issues with wrong kit delivery and dirty pipes.
WOW what a difference in sound and performance this intake has made.
Under Bonnet / Engine Temps have dropped by 8% also. Really happy about the drop in temps.
Car has pipes and stage 2 tune with 295/30/19 R888R's on the rears and it wants to break traction now when I did not before.
Took me about 2 hours to install with the help (NOT) of our 4 year old. LOL !
Delivery to Australia took 9 days via UPS.
Got K-Mac front and rear camber kit + rear bush set to install along with Eilbach springs in the quest for traction.
[QUOTE
Under Bonnet / Engine Temps have dropped by 8% also[/QUOTE]
Not sure how’s that possible with an open air intake but you should be worry about air temp not engine temp. Too high of an air temp will retard timing.
Today here in North QLD its Warm, 28 degrees.
Drove the car hard for over 30 minutes in sports + engine temps prior to the install would get no higher than 105 degrees and normally sit around that.
After install sat around 92 to 96 degrees and with NO loss of power via retarded timing. Did repeated lorches with same conditions.
About 1 month ago after seeing Zac intakes findings on under bonnet temps when they were testing I took his advice and removed the engine bay seal that fits on the underside of the bonnet when closed, see the above pic. That has helped too.
Make the motor and turbos not work as hard by easy air in (intake) and out (dump pipes and exhaust) and it's a proven winner ! Less restriction.
Klinh from your prior posts we can see your a skeptic and not taking on board anything.
The pipe design running from the filter to the turbo doesn't appear to be designed for maximum flow. There are too many dirrectional changes in it – from the filter element you have 5 parts: straight pipe, curve #1, 2nd straight pie, curve #2 of a slight radius difference from curve #1, and finally the last straight pipe attached to the turbo. A pipe with one radius, or one constant increase or decrease in the radius, would benefit air flow. Looking back on the photos of the systems installed on this post its interesting to see how different manufacturers addressed this flow path in the design of their pipe.
Today here in North QLD its Warm, 28 degrees.
Drove the car hard for over 30 minutes in sports + engine temps prior to the install would get no higher than 105 degrees and normally sit around that.
After install sat around 92 to 96 degrees and with NO loss of power via retarded timing. Did repeated lorches with same conditions.
About 1 month ago after seeing Zac intakes findings on under bonnet temps when they were testing I took his advice and removed the engine bay seal that fits on the underside of the bonnet when closed, see the above pic. That has helped too.
Make the motor and turbos not work as hard buy easy air in (intake) and out (dump pipes and exhaust) and it's a proven winner ! Less restriction.
Klinh from your prior posts we can see your a skeptic and not taking on board anything.
Couldnt make out in the kit what engine bay seal you removed. Could you point me to that post or be more specific on the image? I had to return mine and the new ones aren’t coming until Monday but I should have time to install next Sunday! Also, do you hear turbos spoiling AND the diver gets letting off pressure or just one of those sounds? If one which one? Just debating not doing vta adapters if that sound is audible through these filters.
Air intake temp is totally different the engine temp. Just common sense, how can an open air intake now sucking in hotter air is running cooler the the stock air box without doing any other upgrades like intercooler, methanol sprays... etc?
As for no retarded timing. Did you did the car or based on butt dyno? My friend, timing retard can not feel it with butt dyno unless a major retard with major power lost.
Seal was not in the intake kit. It's the OEM seal to the rear of the engine bay that makes the engine bay air tight using the bonnet. Zac's have good videos on the testing google zaccomposites its on instagram.
I would hold off on getting the adapters, the turbo and blowoff valves sounds (Both) are loud ! and with removing the seal they get + 50% again louder. Even when driving with windows up you can clearly hear both.
so removing the engine bay seal reduced oil temperatures?
genuinely curious about this - i'm not sure what the purpose of it would be other than noise reduction and stopping extra crud from getting in. people have been spacing the rear hood latches in the drift world for a long time to get air venting out the rear.
Yes mate and as said before Zac did testing on this using 2 temp probes, see prior post. The engine bay temps dropped a fair bit along with intake temps the down side you get hot wipers.. lol !
so removing the engine bay seal reduced oil temperatures?
genuinely curious about this - i'm not sure what the purpose of it would be other than noise reduction and stopping extra crud from getting in. people have been spacing the rear hood latches in the drift world for a long time to get air venting out the rear.
Which make sense because hot air is not being trapped inside the engine bay. You might as well remove the engine plastic bottom cover as well for even cooler.
Which make sense because hot air is not being trapped inside the engine bay. You might as well remove the engine plastic bottom cover as well for even cooler.
would imagine those shields would help with coefficient of drag
Yes mate and as said before Zac did testing on this using 2 temp probes, see prior post. The engine bay temps dropped a fair bit along with intake temps the down side you get hot wipers.. lol !
pretty neat - would definitely do that w/ these open air intakes. i saw very bad heat soak on the c43 platform with the BMS system - w/ some sort of retarded timing or boost cut
Which make sense because hot air is not being trapped inside the engine bay. You might as well remove the engine plastic bottom cover as well for even cooler.
Your engine bay might be cooler but your actual engine temp will run hotter, just ask any seasoned track driver. The undertray in place keeps the engine bay as a low pressure zone so that the air actually passes through the radiator and cools efficiently. I suppose your decision depends if you prioritize colder IAT, or cooler water temps
Reminds me from the 'Wizard of Oz.'
The Lion - "I do believe in spooks, I do believe in spooks, I do, I do, I do." The Witch - "You'll belive in more than that when I'm finished with you."
Looks nice, but it’s more than double what the BMS costs and I don’t see any benefits over it in terms of heat management. The carbon looks pretty though...
Looks nice, but it’s more than double what the BMS costs and I don’t see any benefits over it in terms of heat management. The carbon looks pretty though...
This post is for all Aftermarket Intakes not just BMS’s.
10-02-2019, 08:26 PM
