AlexZTuned

It will store a soft code and will pull power, it’s been documented and proven with dyno pulls (or look at your HP/TQ gauge, you won’t see full power). If it hasn’t already cut power with a short drive, it definitely will after some more miles. People tried this when the car first came out... it’s not like an old BMW where you can just pull the plug. The valves are tied into the can-bus so if you mess with them and keep them unplugged, the ECU will know it, throw a fault and cut power.

Again, don’t do this unless you have exhaust valve simulators. This is why they exist.

Schulminator

Alex, let us know your findings. As this would be a nice alternative for those of us that don't mind 100% open at all times.

Schulminator

So would we need 2 or 3 simulators? Or does the h-pipe valve not really matter?

munis

Dude no no no no! Why did you do that for? You think no one else thought of this simple idea? You just threw the car into soft limp mode and it is a ***** to get rid off. Soft codes would not trigger CEL but it is saved in the memory now. You need XENTRY to clear this.

Also the power loss is not in your head. There is an actual powerloss. Go to the Dynamic select menu and toggle to engine data. You will see your car is not making more than 250hp and 250lbft of torque. Which will still feel fast.

You will think we just wanted to blow 400 dollars when all we needed to do is unplug the valves!

skim7x

LOL guys guys... Relax there was no limp mode and the car is fine. I DID feel the ECU pulling back power, so just reconnected it, no harm no foul. At least I know it's not a simple fix. In my 335i I did the exact same thing and it gave me a soft code but didn't affect anything and I drove like that for almost a decade.

And... I'm not one to trust anything anyone says on the forums, I like to try it myself. So kill me haha. I'm sure you see people on this forum blowing hundreds of dollars everywhere for no reason (air intake spacer haha). Glad you guys are looking out for me though.

Oh, the other benefit from doing my dangerous experiment is that I got to hear what 100% open valves sound like before "blowing $400"... AWESOMMMEEE. 😂 I'm on the GB list!!

skim7x

Good info above, thanks @AlexZTuned. It probably did store a fault... dont' see why that matters. In any case, I've taken a hit for anyone else who wants to do the same thing =P Don't do it, and take my word for it -- it sounds awesome haha.

AlexZTuned

Alright fellas, I tested the AWE exhaust valve simulators and they work! Valves are forced open 100% and no fault codes or limp mode. Not bad for $50 bucks and 10-15 minutes.

I'm still planning on getting the ASR module because I'd like to be able to switch back to using the OEM exhaust button, but this is a great mod for people that don't care about switching and just want loud ALL the time.

Check it out: https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-c63s-...imulators.html

JWreck

AlexZTuned

$54.29 for the pair. Scroll down a bit and you'll find them: https://www.awe-tuning.com/mercedes-c63-exhaust

These are the same simulators used for the F80/F82 M3/M4, Audi S3, S6, S7, Porsche Macan/S/Turbo, Golf R...

skim7x

Where do they plug in? Just under the car where the rear valves sit?

You just plugged both simulators in, and then disconnected the exhaust valve control module in the trunk?

Schulminator

Good work Alex, my simulators are ordered. I'm good with 100% / 100% of the time....

Skim, yes you're correct. Unplug valve motor at exhaust and plug simulator into body side harness. Wouldn't think you would mess with anything in the trunk, as the simulators are mocking the signal sent from OEM valve motors to ensure the ECU is happy. Ensure to re-secure all wires and cover open valve motor plug with electrical tape.

skim7x

What about the other valves towards the engine? Won't they still be active unless you unplug the connector in ttrunk? Or unplug the actual valves like you do the rear valves?

Schulminator

See Alex's response up a bit for the (1) H-pipe valve. These are only for the valve at the end of each muffler.

AlexZTuned

Correct, this is for the two rear exhaust valves only, nothing is touched in the trunk. The H-pipe valve still opens and closes dynamically based on the OEM programming, this is why I recommend keeping the exhaust button ON even with this mod. When I was doing a test drive, I noticed when you're stopped, the harder you press on the brake, the more the H-pipe valve closes making the car quieter. If you just put a little pressure on the brake at a stop, the H-pipe valve will stay open and loud. It's pretty interesting hearing the exhaust get louder and quieter based on how much you're stepping on the brake. That's just one example of how the H-pipe works dynamically under different conditions. It has different programming depending on your dynamic mode selected (Comfort, Sport, Sport+, Race) and will be more aggressive to open in Sport+ and Race with the exhaust button on.

I'm actually thinking about buying a 3rd valve simulator and installing it on the H-pipe to keep it forced open, I'm curious to see how significant the difference is with it forced open. I'm just not sure if the H-pipe defaults to 100% open with the car off like the rear valves do and since I can't check it visually, I'm a little bit weary. Nonetheless, I think this may be something I'll be trying soon, because I have a sneaking suspicion it will increase the overall noise even more. Of course if someone wants to be a guinea pig and try it... go for it!

JWreck

skim7x

@ASR-Daniel Does your ASR Module also keep the H-Pipe valve 100% Open when activated?

I don't have a lift and there's no way I can fit down there to get that valve... rather pay a few hundred bucks for the module if this is the case haha...

AlexZTuned

Maybe they have one for cheap at Harbor Freight?

I guess I can try installing a simulator on the H-pipe since there isn't really any risk of damage if it's forced open or closed (unlike the rear valves). The H-pipe is more so for sound, rather than flow.

skim7x

Meh... I'll just get the ASR... More refined solution than patch-working it with multiple sims, and added functionality with the remote. ::shrug::

FDNewbie

Ie ppl who don't have neighbors...

Let us know how it goes!

skim7x

Come on guys, one more so we can get this show on the road! 😁

-krikke-

Finally installed my ASR..​​​​​​.

The install took me 15 minutes (removing trunk bottom + installing the unit and putting the trunk floor back in place). Very easy job.

I am quite happy with the results as there is definately more grumble while driving at lower revs. When driving with the windows opened you can definately hear the difference. It's also very noticable while driving in streets that are full of houses/buildings (city streets) as the sound reflection against the facades is a good amplifier.

Please note that the added sound volume is most hearable by the outside. While driving there is a bit more volume inside the interior but not much more compared to stock. I wish these cars were less isolated in the interior so the driver would also have an easier way to enjoy the added volume.

I am very happy with this mod and imo its definately worth it!

V8rumble

-krikke-

I would consider a secondary cat delete (to have more audible pleasure inside the cabin) but I am a little bit scared that on the outside it will be too much then. On the other hand if it would be too loud you can indeed close the valves or use the Asr Serien mode so the flaps are controlled again by the revs or driving mode like with stock setup...

Will definately be interested in a video with the combo Asr + secondary cat delete!

FDNewbie

Agreed. Windows down/sunroof open and drop the rear seatbacks. Really lets in a ton more exhaust noise

V8rumble