When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hardwired Escort Max2 - 2018 C63S Coupe (explained w/ photos)
I know that it seems that this may have already been covered in other threads and videos, but I couldn't find a thread that fully answered all of my questions. I am posting this as a compilation of info I gathered from reading dozens of threads. Please feel free to chime in if you see something that potentially looks unsafe or likely to cause damage.
1. I used driver side fuse box and located fuse slot #217 which is designated as "Emergency vehicle/Special-purpose vehicle". I use the term "slot" because it was empty and only had a hole for one pin of a standard sized fuse. #217 is switchable (0 volts when car off, 12 volts when car/acc on). Other threads and a video online show people using slot 218 or 219 which are for the "Airbag System." As many pointed out in other threads, this seemed like a really bad idea to me. I also didn't want to use any of the fuses in left column of the fuse box because you would have to remove a black plastic bar that secures the entire bank of fuses in place and the clearance for the add-a-fuse isn't ideal.
2. Next, I placed a standard sized add-a-fuse connector with a 5A fuse in it (and an insulated female quick connect crimped to it) into slot 217**. I attached the positive lead of the Escort brand wire to the add-a-fuse and the negative lead to one of the metal bolts of the door jam located within the anterior portion of the fuse box. **an alternative option is to use this- which is essentially the same thing as the brown fuse holder that is occupying slot #216 in the picture below. It is designed to plug into these single hole fuseslots.**
3. I ran the power cord up the A-pillar to the headliner and across to the rear-view mirror housing. All of the wire was tucked under the trim pieces by gently prying a gap open using a plastic trim tool. I zip-tied the power cord to one of the other wire harnesses within the mirror housing to create a leash for the radar detector should the mount inevitable lose suction in the scorching hot Texas sun.
4. Last, I ran the portion of the wiring that connects to the "Smartcord" unit up through the posterior-superior aspect of the fuse box. This wiring nicely in the crevasse and the shape of the smartcord unit snuggled right up against the natural curves of the dash. This was achieved without using any adhesives, Velcro, etc. It has zero play and clears the door even when closed vigorously. The remainder of the wiring was bundled, twist-tied, and tucked away before replacing fuse box cover.
Hope this helps and saves some of you the frustration I went through trying to get this figured out. It was WAY easier in my M4 - all I needed was a mirror tap and a blend mount....
Cheers,
Harry
Last edited by HarrySeaward; Oct 9, 2017 at 10:40 AM.
nice job! I believe I used #216 which is Glove box light in my 2015.
if you want to mount Smartcord on steering column, see post in W205 sedan forum
re: Radar Hardwire install
Thanks for the write up. But how do you remove the driver side fuse panel/door without breaking anything? I once tried that and it wouldn't come out and I didn't want to force it. Perhaps you can give insights as to the proper way to remove the panel/door?
Thanks for the write up. But how do you remove the driver side fuse panel/door without breaking anything? I once tried that and it wouldn't come out and I didn't want to force it. Perhaps you can give insights as to the proper way to remove the panel/door?
I used a plastic trim tool (the one on the far left in the picture below). You can buy these at Harbor freight, most auto parts stores, or online.
Gently pry/pop it open first at the 3'oclock position (if you are looking at the fuse box cover while standing beside the car). Then gently pry/pop at the 12'oclock and 6'oclock positions. At this point, the box door should open as if you were turning the page in a book. Once open, you can fully pull the cover to the box off.
So I was able to get the panel off to access the fusebox however I don't see an immediate location to ground the wire. I see two BIG bolts which may work however those are way too big so I rather not use them. Other than those, I didn't find anything else in the immediate area. Do you by chance have a pic of where you grounded it?
I don't have a pic, but used the lower of the two bolts. I didn't fully unscrew the bolt - just loosened it enough to slide the ground wire connector under and then bolted it back down tight. It is very secure and doesn't budge.
Hey, I saw the thread for the sedan hardwire and tapped into the instrument cluster fuse. The Passport Escort stayed on after I turned off the vehicle (checked back in 15 minutes and still on). I changed power sources to the clock fuse and same thing. Anyone else have an issue with it failing to turn off after you’re done driving (and letting it sit for 15+ minutes). I don’t want to drain the battery. I’ve ordered the Add A Fuse and will try slot 217 when it arrives. Will yours turn on/off immediately with slot 217 and Add A Fuse adapter?
Last edited by Jonathan Dunn; Jun 20, 2018 at 05:07 PM.
Reason: Typos
Hey, I saw the thread for the sedan hardwire and tapped into the instrument cluster fuse. The Passport Escort stayed on after I turned off the vehicle (checked back in 15 minutes and still on). I changed power sources to the clock fuse and same thing. Anyone else have an issue with it failing to turn off after you’re done driving (and letting it sit for 15+ minutes). I don’t want to drain the battery. I’ve ordered the Add A Fuse and will try slot 217 when it arrives. Will yours turn on/off immediately with slot 217 and Add A Fuse adapter?
I had the same problem trying to hardwire my dash cam and Uniden R3...couldn't find any switched circuits in the driver's side box except 216 and 217. I plugged the positive leads into those slots and both turn off with the ignition, but an add-a-fuse won't work because those slots aren't designed to accept a standard fuse. So I ended up ordering two of these: https://www.smart-stuff.parts/black-fuse-holder
The website said it should take about a week to arrive from the UK so I'm expecting them any day now.
I had the same problem trying to hardwire my dash cam and Uniden R3...couldn't find any switched circuits in the driver's side box except 216 and 217. I plugged the positive leads into those slots and both turn off with the ignition, but an add-a-fuse won't work because those slots aren't designed to accept a standard fuse. So I ended up ordering two of these: https://www.smart-stuff.parts/black-fuse-holder
The website said it should take about a week to arrive from the UK so I'm expecting them any day now.
I was able to make mine work with the "add-a-fuse" thing, but I didn't like that it was somewhat rigged. I ordered the exact part you have linked in your post and it works perfectly. I did this months ago and it was very simple to install.
can you review the escort a bit here too? I didn't think those work much anymore in state side, as most policeforce use lidar or similar technology.
It works great where I live in Texas, but there isn't a lot of laser or lidar presence where I do most of my driving. Most the the traffic cops here use KA band and it is primarily the sate troopers who use the laser and lidar on the interstates.
Thanks for the tip. I already ordered the Add A Fuse. I wasn’t aware of the other adapter. I’ll give this one a try and see how it goes. The Passport Escort I have is the 9500i. Its really only useful for K and Ka bands. I got hit with laser and it didn’t even pick it up. I tried to utilize the Passport ticket warranty since I had it less than a year. They denied it saying it was purchased on Amazon through a third party and not direct even though I met all other criteria. Not sure I will go with them for the next one. Any recommendations? I know there are some solid ones that pickup laser well, but I’m not looking to spend $1200. I’m willing to spend around $600 if it actually works.
Last edited by Jonathan Dunn; Jun 21, 2018 at 08:33 AM.
Reason: Typo
You have to understand that once you get hit with laser, it’s already too late... unless you have something like that Escort Z5W system I linked to above.
The only real real benefit to “just” detecting laser (rather than jamming or shifting like the Z5W) is that it gets uploaded to the cloud and alerts other drivers using the escort system that there is laser being used at a particular location. This has saved me many times
When I bought my c63s, it came with an integrated Passport Escort radar detector. Not 100% sure what model but I think it’s the 9500ci?. The kit is apparently a nice one but it wasn’t installed properly. Couple issues:
- It doesn’t stay ON consistently when car is running. Seems like power source isn’t secure because going over a bump could get it to turn ON or OFF (literally). Not even sure where to begin troubleshooting or figuring out removing the whole setup.
- I really don’t like the location where the control module was placed. If I keep the setup, I’d like to conceal it in a better spot.
When I bought my c63s, it came with an integrated Passport Escort radar detector. Not 100% sure what model but I think it’s the 9500ci?. The kit is apparently a nice one but it wasn’t installed properly. Couple issues:
- It doesn’t stay ON consistently when car is running. Seems like power source isn’t secure because going over a bump could get it to turn ON or OFF (literally). Not even sure where to begin troubleshooting or figuring out removing the whole setup.
- I really don’t like the location where the control module was placed. If I keep the setup, I’d like to conceal it in a better spot.
I'm sure it's probably the positive in the fuse box. If one of the add a switches weren't used as referenced in the thread there is a lot of room for play if they just tried to stick the wire in. Pull that cover off and you should be able to find out pretty quickly!
I had the same problem trying to hardwire my dash cam and Uniden R3...couldn't find any switched circuits in the driver's side box except 216 and 217. I plugged the positive leads into those slots and both turn off with the ignition, but an add-a-fuse won't work because those slots aren't designed to accept a standard fuse. So I ended up ordering two of these: https://www.smart-stuff.parts/black-fuse-holder
The website said it should take about a week to arrive from the UK so I'm expecting them any day now.
Originally Posted by HarrySeaward
I was able to make mine work with the "add-a-fuse" thing, but I didn't like that it was somewhat rigged. I ordered the exact part you have linked in your post and it works perfectly. I did this months ago and it was very simple to install.
I purchased this part as well although I never used it as I had it working without it. The connection has loosened so I pulled it out. I consider myself pretty handy but how in the hell does this thing work. How does the wire go in the holder, I can't get it to seat anywhere?
I purchased this part as well although I never used it as I had it working without it. The connection has loosened so I pulled it out. I consider myself pretty handy but how in the hell does this thing work. How does the wire go in the holder, I can't get it to seat anywhere?
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
Hardwired Escort Max2 - 2018 C63S Coupe (explained w/ photos)
