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I also used ramps and did not mess with the front (metal) drain plug. Also, next time I will only remove the rear underside cover and back 4 bolts on metal front cover to gain access to filter and drain plug.
Does anyone know the outer diameter of the oil filter housing bolt (black plastic)? Someone mentioned 32mm which I have and is way too big. My largest traditional metric socket is 20mm and was too small. Thankfully the center core of the black plastic filter cover receives a 10mm hex bit (picture below)
Note: I had to jack up the car to get the ramps underneath the front tires as the front lip is too low to drive up normally. My 2018 has not been lowered. All the best. Thanks for the tips!
Oil filter cover (black plastic) removed using 10mm Hex socket.
Front metal drain plug (red) and rear (black plastic) drain plug near oil filter cover.
Pro tip: drive up on some 1” or so boards that you lay down flat before the ramp starts. Will likely let your lip clear the ramp and it’s super easy.
Do y'all reccomend changing the engine oil with the rear differential at 2K miles? 10K miles seems like a long time to have that break in oil running in the engine.
FYI: "break-in" oil is a myth. No manufacturers have used any kind of special break-in oil for decades.
*****I just changed the oil and filter on my 2018 C63s, and 26mm was way too big for the plastic housing. I used a 6 point 24mm socket to get the oil filter housing off. The center drain allen bolt was 10mm so you can drain the oil out first from the filter to make less of a mess. Torqued the housing back with the new canister filter to 20Nm even though it says 25Nm. 20Nm was plenty tight. Checked for leaks, and lived happily ever after.
⏱️ 700HP Facelift converted C63 S Coupe with Drexler 3.06 plated LSD
Originally Posted by MaxVO2
*****I just changed the oil and filter on my 2018 C63s, and 26mm was way too big for the plastic housing. I used a 6 point 24mm socket to get the oil filter housing off. The center drain allen bolt was 10mm so you can drain the oil out first from the filter to make less of a mess. Torqued the housing back with the new canister filter to 20Nm even though it says 25Nm. 20Nm was plenty tight. Checked for leaks, and lived happily ever after.
Just FYI
Correction: 24mm socket for filter housing
Last edited by Jimmy_c63s; Jun 24, 2022 at 11:56 PM.
Reason: Correct socket size added
No way? Ok this is getting interesting mine took 26mm socket. Unless these things have different sizes?
Another guy on here said it's a 32mm socket needed for filter housing and I tried that but there's just no way it would fit it was just way too big.
Going to do mine again this week and will take pic of socket and my plastic filter housing when it's off etc
Are you sure 24mm socket fitted on yours man? 😅
*****Yea. I replaced the turbos on my car (2018 C63s) this week, broke it all in and thermal cycled the turbos to seat the bases as well as insure no leaks or anything horridly bad going wrong on the install. I used a turbo break in pre-lube to help break them in and the stuff is black as night and is great for breaking in a new turbo versus dry starting them, but it tends to clog the oil filter up a bit, so I changed the oil after everything checked out ok and after I made sure I didn't install the turbos backwards, or worse put the old turbos back on or something... (<----that's a joke, but that would SUCK if it happened..)
Anyway, I changed the oil and filter and have all the socket sizes, and mine took a 24 mm *perfectly* with NO floppiness, etc.. The 26 wouldn't even engage the nut on the canister as it was just too big. Just for giggles and because that plastic oil filter canister cover seems *really* kind of flimsy to me I ordered another one and it should be in next week. My original works, but I'm just paranoid the thing will just break one day while trying to remove it. Best to have a spare... like a girlfriend, wife, etc... in case they break.. Always good to have spares I always say!!!
Pics below. The car with the new turbos goes to the dyno tuner on Monday for them to do their magic as that is equipment I don't have, and I'd rather the car with the new setup get tuned on a dyno versus just a guesstimate with an off shelf tune from someone who has never seen my car, and may or may not really be able to optimize the setup or maximize it as there are individual difference in motors and other stuff on the same model car. It's not cheap but I can always make more money, or get a sugar momma, sell an organ, become a **** star or whatever to make extra $$$.
⏱️ 700HP Facelift converted C63 S Coupe with Drexler 3.06 plated LSD
24mm for oil filter socket
Originally Posted by MaxVO2
Anyway, I changed the oil and filter and have all the socket sizes, and mine took a 24 mm *perfectly* with NO floppiness, etc.. The 26 wouldn't even engage the nut on the canister as it was just too big. Just for giggles and because that plastic oil filter canister cover seems *really* kind of flimsy to me I ordered another one and it should be in next week. My original works, but I'm just paranoid the thing will just break one day while trying to remove it. Best to have a spare... like a girlfriend, wife, etc... in case they break.. Always good to have spares I always say!!!
What a build man and so much detail 🤙
This bugged me all night and you're right it's a 24mm socket for the oil filter housing.
This bugged me all night and you're right it's a 24mm socket for the oil filter housing.
Thanks mate.
****I got my spare replacement oil canister cap and took a pic with a measurement. I could not believe how inexpensive it was (for a Benz part! haha!), like $50 on sale or so. It came with a new filter and O-ring as well. The original seemed kinda flimsy so I bought a new one to put on my next oil change as the original has someone who clearly used the wrong socket head on it as the edges were kinda damaged and rounded. It would suck to have the thing break with the old filter in it, all the oil out of the crank case and only a bicycle or roller skates to get to the dealership!
Anyway, cap and measurement below. Definitely 24mm !
⏱️ 700HP Facelift converted C63 S Coupe with Drexler 3.06 plated LSD
Oil filter cap
Originally Posted by MaxVO2
****I got my spare replacement oil canister cap and took a pic with a measurement. I could not believe how inexpensive it was (for a Benz part! haha!), like $50 on sale or so. It came with a new filter and O-ring as well. The original seemed kinda flimsy so I bought a new one to put on my next oil change as the original has someone who clearly used the wrong socket head on it as the edges were kinda damaged and rounded. It would suck to have the thing break with the old filter in it, all the oil out of the crank case and only a bicycle or roller skates to get to the dealership!
Anyway, cap and measurement below. Definitely 24mm !
Max you wouldn't happen to know if that oil filter housing cap you replaced is part number A1771800110? Thanks bud.
Last edited by Jimmy_c63s; Jul 15, 2022 at 02:29 PM.
Reason: Added a pic
Max you wouldn't happen to know if that oil filter housing cap you replaced is part number A1771800110? Thanks bud.
****Yep. That's the one! Came with the blue O-ring. Part number is the same! I'm the second owner of my car and the original cap worked, but someone must have used vice grips on the removal nut as it was all chewed up! I bought two spares and replaced the one on my car and saved the other one for a friend who has the same car with the same chewed up nut!!! Clearly some mechanics aren't using the right tool to remove these caps! The thing is flippin' plastic! What a disaster to crack that thing while using vice grips or whatever and not having a spare! Bad day for sure!!!
⏱️ 700HP Facelift converted C63 S Coupe with Drexler 3.06 plated LSD
Originally Posted by MaxVO2
****Yep. That's the one! Came with the blue O-ring. Part number is the same! I'm the second owner of my car and the original cap worked, but someone must have used vice grips on the removal nut as it was all chewed up! I bought two spares and replaced the one on my car and saved the other one for a friend who has the same car with the same chewed up nut!!! Clearly some mechanics aren't using the right tool to remove these caps! The thing is flippin' plastic! What a disaster to crack that thing while using vice grips or whatever and not having a spare! Bad day for sure!!!
There you go. Thanks for checking the part number and confirming 👍
I also used ramps and did not mess with the front (metal) drain plug. Also, next time I will only remove the rear underside cover and back 4 bolts on metal front cover to gain access to filter and drain plug.
Does anyone know the outer diameter of the oil filter housing bolt (black plastic)? Someone mentioned 32mm which I have and is way too big. My largest traditional metric socket is 20mm and was too small. Thankfully the center core of the black plastic filter cover receives a 10mm hex bit (picture below)
Note: I had to jack up the car to get the ramps underneath the front tires as the front lip is too low to drive up normally. My 2018 has not been lowered. All the best. Thanks for the tips!
Oil filter cover (black plastic) removed using 10mm Hex socket.
Front metal drain plug (red) and rear (black plastic) drain plug near oil filter cover.
TIP.....
Can confirm if the car is level while draining oil you'll need to also drain from the front sump plug.
But if you use ramps up the front/jack stands and have the car at an angle like the post above you'll drain EVERYTHING OUT without needing to drain from the metal sump plug.
Lazy workshops who have done my oil changes hoisted my car and only drained from the plastic sump plug when car was level on a hoist so 3 litres would always be left. I have now started doing my own oil on this car and when the front was up on ramps at a slight angle I drained 13 litres...... smh
⏱️ 700HP Facelift converted C63 S Coupe with Drexler 3.06 plated LSD
Originally Posted by George_1992
TIP.....
Can confirm if the car is level while draining oil you'll need to also drain from the front sump plug.
But if you use ramps up the front/jack stands and have the car at an angle like the post above you'll drain EVERYTHING OUT without needing to drain from the metal sump plug.
Lazy workshops who have done my oil changes hoisted my car and only drained from the plastic sump plug when car was level on a hoist so 3 litres would always be left. I have now started doing my own oil on this car and when the front was up on ramps at a slight angle I drained 13 litres...... smh
Sydney mechanics are the laziest cun*s.......
Agree with this. Having the car up on an angle by jacking up the front only will completely drain all the oil by just using the plastic sump plug.
Can confirm if the car is level while draining oil you'll need to also drain from the front sump plug.
But if you use ramps up the front/jack stands and have the car at an angle like the post above you'll drain EVERYTHING OUT without needing to drain from the metal sump plug.
Lazy workshops who have done my oil changes hoisted my car and only drained from the plastic sump plug when car was level on a hoist so 3 litres would always be left. I have now started doing my own oil on this car and when the front was up on ramps at a slight angle I drained 13 litres...... smh
Sydney mechanics are the laziest cun*s.......
What jack stand do you use to clear the front bar?
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
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Always good to have spares I always say!!!
