Correct oil change procedure for 2017 or 2018 c63s
#1
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Thread Starter
Correct oil change procedure for 2017 or 2018 c63s
Can anyone please publish the MB official engine oil change procedures?
I understand that in addition to the main plastic drain plug next to the oil filter (which is not reusable), there is another plug towards the front of the car that needs to be removed and drained as well?
Thanks
I understand that in addition to the main plastic drain plug next to the oil filter (which is not reusable), there is another plug towards the front of the car that needs to be removed and drained as well?
Thanks
#3
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C63s(lost)/E250/GTR(Sold)/GTS(Carbonerre)
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-c63s-...2017-c63s.html
Look at this #2,#4 and#6
I suggest remove both drain plugs, for completely drain out old oil. But YOU NEED REPLACE COPPER WASHER if you do the front one, make sure you have one before you drain. part # for copper washer: N007603014106
Look at this #2,#4 and#6
I suggest remove both drain plugs, for completely drain out old oil. But YOU NEED REPLACE COPPER WASHER if you do the front one, make sure you have one before you drain. part # for copper washer: N007603014106
Last edited by srO_Michael_Orz; 11-27-2017 at 09:11 AM. Reason: N
#4
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2017 AMG C63 Sedan Iridium Silver
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-c63s-...2017-c63s.html
Look at this #2,#4 and#6
I suggest remove both drain plugs, for completely drain out old oil. But YOU NEED REPLACE COPPER WASHER if you do the front one, make sure you have one before you drain. part # for copper washer: N007603014106
Look at this #2,#4 and#6
I suggest remove both drain plugs, for completely drain out old oil. But YOU NEED REPLACE COPPER WASHER if you do the front one, make sure you have one before you drain. part # for copper washer: N007603014106
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C63s(lost)/E250/GTR(Sold)/GTS(Carbonerre)
Thanks for that info. Have couple questions: (1) Does removing engine compartment paneling underneath to get at filter and drain plug require any special tools? (2) Do you happen to have the part numbers for the plastic oil pan drain plug and the metal drain plug near Y130? Thanks.
2.Plastic drain plug #A0029902017, Technically you should discard old drain plug, but in reality plug could be reuse depends on condition. I suggest you reuse it, since it cost around $15.
3.Metal drain plug #N000908014009, 100% You do not need replace this one unless you screw it up.
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2017 AMG C63 Sedan Iridium Silver
1.No, normal tools.
2.Plastic drain plug #A0029902017, Technically you should discard old drain plug, but in reality plug could be reuse depends on condition. I suggest you reuse it, since it cost around $15.
3.Metal drain plug #N000908014009, 100% You do not need replace this one unless you screw it up.
2.Plastic drain plug #A0029902017, Technically you should discard old drain plug, but in reality plug could be reuse depends on condition. I suggest you reuse it, since it cost around $15.
3.Metal drain plug #N000908014009, 100% You do not need replace this one unless you screw it up.
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#11
Junior Member
My Wife just got a 2018 C63s and looking at the plastic oil drain plug it appears you can use a coin or something like that to remove it (it has a curved slot in it) is there a special tool or can I just use a screw driver?
That is the black plug in the picture above.
Thanks,
Dave
That is the black plug in the picture above.
Thanks,
Dave
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C63s(lost)/E250/GTR(Sold)/GTS(Carbonerre)
My Wife just got a 2018 C63s and looking at the plastic oil drain plug it appears you can use a coin or something like that to remove it (it has a curved slot in it) is there a special tool or can I just use a screw driver?
That is the black plug in the picture above.
Thanks,
Dave
That is the black plug in the picture above.
Thanks,
Dave
#14
Junior Member
Oh one other quick question - is there an oil life reset procedure? This thing has all types of different screens and I haven't found exactly where to go to/what screen to reset the oil life once I change it.
Thanks,
D.
Thanks,
D.
#17
Member
Thread Starter
First Oil change
Just did my first at about 6,500 miles and 10.5 months
Drove car up on floor ramps so that front was about 5 more inches off the ground than the rear.
Exactly 10 quarts came out and 10 went back in. Dip Stick shows almost full after several different readings.
I did not drain the front plug by the oil pump valve, as others suggested, since I had 10 quarts come out of the main plug. My guess is that having the car on front ramps allowed the oil to drain back to the rear sump plug more easily.
Anyway, it was an easy job, but I wonder why they publish 9.5 quarts as the capacity?
Anyone know?
Drove car up on floor ramps so that front was about 5 more inches off the ground than the rear.
Exactly 10 quarts came out and 10 went back in. Dip Stick shows almost full after several different readings.
I did not drain the front plug by the oil pump valve, as others suggested, since I had 10 quarts come out of the main plug. My guess is that having the car on front ramps allowed the oil to drain back to the rear sump plug more easily.
Anyway, it was an easy job, but I wonder why they publish 9.5 quarts as the capacity?
Anyone know?
Last edited by ahesq; 09-08-2018 at 12:07 PM.
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Jimmy_c63s (07-17-2022),
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#18
Senior Member
Changed my oil for the first time today!
Jacked up the car, put stands on both sides of the front, removed all the 8mm metal bolts holding the two under trays, set them aside then removed the plug and the filter housing last. Once I removed the plastic flathead drain plug and the oil filter housing I let it drain until the drips stopped. Changed the o ring on the filter housing, installed the new Oem filter, then reinstalled the plug and filter housing. Put in 9 quarts, started the car, checked for leaks, put the under trays back on and set the car back on the ground. Checked the dip stick and it was barely at the minimum mark. Added the remaining quart (10 total) then rechecked the level and it was 3/4 full on the dipstick. Perfect.
Total cost was $50 for two 5 quart jugs of Mobil1 0-40 synthetic euro formula and $16 for an Oem oil filter.
Also I used this video for reference.
Jacked up the car, put stands on both sides of the front, removed all the 8mm metal bolts holding the two under trays, set them aside then removed the plug and the filter housing last. Once I removed the plastic flathead drain plug and the oil filter housing I let it drain until the drips stopped. Changed the o ring on the filter housing, installed the new Oem filter, then reinstalled the plug and filter housing. Put in 9 quarts, started the car, checked for leaks, put the under trays back on and set the car back on the ground. Checked the dip stick and it was barely at the minimum mark. Added the remaining quart (10 total) then rechecked the level and it was 3/4 full on the dipstick. Perfect.
Total cost was $50 for two 5 quart jugs of Mobil1 0-40 synthetic euro formula and $16 for an Oem oil filter.
Also I used this video for reference.
Last edited by gOt BoOsT; 03-11-2019 at 12:34 AM.
#19
Do y'all reccomend changing the engine oil with the rear differential at 2K miles? 10K miles seems like a long time to have that break in oil running in the engine. I'm also asking because I have dp+tune scheduled shortly after the service so I'm wondering if I should have fresh oil for the dyno?
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Ph4tLyfe (07-09-2019)
#23
Member
Thread Starter
Sorry, I read your post too fast.
Thought you were just talking rear diff.
Yes 10k/1 year engine oil/2k diff. oil. first time only
I changed my engine oil at about 6,500 miles and 10 months or so, and it was still ok
I would say 7500/10 months if you don't drive much
Thought you were just talking rear diff.
Yes 10k/1 year engine oil/2k diff. oil. first time only
I changed my engine oil at about 6,500 miles and 10 months or so, and it was still ok
I would say 7500/10 months if you don't drive much
#24
Use Ramps. Anyone know oil filter bolt size?
I also used ramps and did not mess with the front (metal) drain plug. Also, next time I will only remove the rear underside cover and back 4 bolts on metal front cover to gain access to filter and drain plug.
Does anyone know the outer diameter of the oil filter housing bolt (black plastic)? Someone mentioned 32mm which I have and is way too big. My largest traditional metric socket is 20mm and was too small. Thankfully the center core of the black plastic filter cover receives a 10mm hex bit (picture below)
Note: I had to jack up the car to get the ramps underneath the front tires as the front lip is too low to drive up normally. My 2018 has not been lowered. All the best. Thanks for the tips!
Oil filter cover (black plastic) removed using 10mm Hex socket.
Front metal drain plug (red) and rear (black plastic) drain plug near oil filter cover.
Does anyone know the outer diameter of the oil filter housing bolt (black plastic)? Someone mentioned 32mm which I have and is way too big. My largest traditional metric socket is 20mm and was too small. Thankfully the center core of the black plastic filter cover receives a 10mm hex bit (picture below)
Note: I had to jack up the car to get the ramps underneath the front tires as the front lip is too low to drive up normally. My 2018 has not been lowered. All the best. Thanks for the tips!
Oil filter cover (black plastic) removed using 10mm Hex socket.
Front metal drain plug (red) and rear (black plastic) drain plug near oil filter cover.
Just did my first at about 6,500 miles and 10.5 months
Drove car up on floor ramps so that front was about 5 more inches off the ground than the rear.
Exactly 10 quarts came out and 10 went back in. Dip Stick shows almost full after several different readings.
I did not drain the front plug by the oil pump valve, as others suggested, since I had 10 quarts come out of the main plug. My guess is that having the car on front ramps allowed the oil to drain back to the rear sump plug more easily.
Anyway, it was an easy job, but I wonder why they publish 9.5 quarts as the capacity?
Anyone know?
Drove car up on floor ramps so that front was about 5 more inches off the ground than the rear.
Exactly 10 quarts came out and 10 went back in. Dip Stick shows almost full after several different readings.
I did not drain the front plug by the oil pump valve, as others suggested, since I had 10 quarts come out of the main plug. My guess is that having the car on front ramps allowed the oil to drain back to the rear sump plug more easily.
Anyway, it was an easy job, but I wonder why they publish 9.5 quarts as the capacity?
Anyone know?