Oil Change Information
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Oil Change Information
New here. I'm the new owner of a 2018 AMG C63s I purchased used. I've been searching through the forums on oil change advice. Several posts have been helpful but I think it would be good to have all the information at one place. I hope some DIY members can share their information / experience and advice. Not a lot of clear instructions on YouTube for changing oil on the AMG 4.0 litre V8.
1) A good source (sources) for the parts?
2) It appears that there are two drain plugs. A plastic plug located near the filter housing and a second metal plug - center forward location from the filter?
3) The plastic plug is to be replaced with a new plastic plug which comes with the O ring? How tight to screw in the plastic plug? Remove and replace it with a large flat blade screwdriver? The metal plug is reusable but requires a new copper washer. How tight to fasten it, about 20 ft. lbs.?
4) The oil filter cannister is removed with what mm size of socket? Alternately can you can use a 10mm hex key socket (the hex is located inside the filter housing nut?) How tight to torque the filter housing?
5) Are there one or two pans to remove under the engine to gain access to the above?
6) What are the numbers for the parts to purchase?
Thanks.
1) A good source (sources) for the parts?
2) It appears that there are two drain plugs. A plastic plug located near the filter housing and a second metal plug - center forward location from the filter?
3) The plastic plug is to be replaced with a new plastic plug which comes with the O ring? How tight to screw in the plastic plug? Remove and replace it with a large flat blade screwdriver? The metal plug is reusable but requires a new copper washer. How tight to fasten it, about 20 ft. lbs.?
4) The oil filter cannister is removed with what mm size of socket? Alternately can you can use a 10mm hex key socket (the hex is located inside the filter housing nut?) How tight to torque the filter housing?
5) Are there one or two pans to remove under the engine to gain access to the above?
6) What are the numbers for the parts to purchase?
Thanks.
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
No one does their own oil change?. Prefer to drink latte in the Mercedes customer lounge while a '$ technical specialist $' does it for you?
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I had hoped members with experience would reply to make this post a useful reference. I'm new here... my first impression of this site is that it's primarily for drivers who's interest is how quickly they can reduce their rear tires to scorched nubs on a wheel rim. I'll post what I've found but my information is without the experience of doing the oil change. (///Bruce - I traded in my highly modified 2015 Porsche Macan Turbo on my current used 2018 C63s coupe. Yes its urgent - don't pizz off the wife. That is one area I'm experienced in.)
Last edited by mstraka; 08-12-2019 at 10:10 PM.
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
I had hoped members with experience would reply to make this post a useful reference. I'm new here... my first impression of this site is that it's primarily for drivers who's interest is how quickly they can reduce their rear tires to scorched nubs on a wheel rim. I'll post what I've found but my information is without the experience of doing the oil change. (///Bruce - I traded in my highly modified 2015 Porsche Macan Turbo on my current used 2018 C63s coupe. Yes its urgent - don't pizz off the wife. That is one area I'm experienced in.)
Be patient. Not everyone does DIY as these cars are not the easiest to work on and learn. You have to wait until a knowledge person has the time and intention to respond. Usually we expect new members to do a thorough search of the forum as many answers are already here and many contributors don’t like to repeat themselves.
If I may suggest; since you find some of your answers take the initiative to summarize them here as you stated and that might encourage others to fill the blanks.
And yes many members prefer to take their cars in for service as their time may be equally or more valuable doing what they do and save this part to a professional. No need to make fun of that. No need to point out that they are only interested in burning tires. That’s not going to encourage them to help.
Cheers.
Last edited by cyberorth; 08-13-2019 at 04:57 AM.
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
I used to do my oil changed on my Clk 500 and Slk 55. Then I found out Mercedes only charged $125 for oil changed. So I stop DIY and just have the Dealer do it. I only saved $50 for DIY. So why? I heard that for the C63s, only $150 for oil change. That’s hell of a deal !!! So I rather let the Dealer do it and I sit there and drink my latte. 👍
Last edited by Klinh; 08-13-2019 at 05:30 AM.
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jj18 (08-15-2019)
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#10
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It's probably not just an oil change. I think 10,000 is your first Service A. Not that it really is much more of anything other than an oil change, just a bunch of inspections that I'm sure you get charged the full hourly rate for. Find a highly rated European car service place near where you live and I'm sure they'll do just an oil change for about $150. I normally do car work myself, but an oil change takes 10q of oil so at the end of the day I'm only saving about $30 to do it myself.
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yes $150 for the oil change – 9.5 qts Mobile 1, a good quality german filter, and replace the plastic plug and copper washer for the metal drain plug. I don't have to crawl under the car when its 95 degrees and 80% humidity in New Orleans, and any mess that may result, and then collect the oil in a 10qt. container and take it to a recycler. All this would cost me DIY aproximately $85 for parts and oil, not to mention time. But there's a satisfaction I get when I do it myself.
Last edited by mstraka; 08-13-2019 at 01:57 PM.
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///Bruce (03-20-2020)
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
After some research here's what I found to my original questions:
1) pellicanparts.com and autohausaz.com
7) Oil Filter – Mercedes #278 180 00 09, Mann #hu6008z, Hengst (Mercedes OEM?) #e 155h d122
Plastic Drain Plug – Mercedes #002 990 20 17
Metal Drain Plug – Mercedes #00908 014009
Metal Drain Plug Copper Washer (14x20x1 mm) - Mercedes #007603 014106
1) pellicanparts.com and autohausaz.com
7) Oil Filter – Mercedes #278 180 00 09, Mann #hu6008z, Hengst (Mercedes OEM?) #e 155h d122
Plastic Drain Plug – Mercedes #002 990 20 17
Metal Drain Plug – Mercedes #00908 014009
Metal Drain Plug Copper Washer (14x20x1 mm) - Mercedes #007603 014106
#14
Senior Member
Looks like I did a basic how to and linked the same video as above lol.
Post #18
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-c63s-...2018-c63s.html
Post #18
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-c63s-...2018-c63s.html
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'm a believer in changing the engine oil more than the factory recommended 10,000 mile interval. At 5,000 miles I used a MityVac to suck out the oil. I got slightly over 8.5 qts out using this method. I'm leaving the filter change for the 10,000 intervals. A note using this method. MityVac says the oil temp should not be over 175 degrees Fahrenheit or it will soften the resevoir and seals. Also don't force the extractor tube past its first stop - I did thinking I was going deeper into the pan and it bent over on itself, crimping the hose. It was a struggle to remove it.
#16
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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2020 AMG GTC Coupe & 2018 Macan Turbo
My wife got me in the habit of changing the oil every time we can divide the nileage equally by 5 as in 5K, 10K, 15K... Been doing this for 35 years now. And, at 70 it's alittle more effort to be crawling around under my cars. BUT, I don't trust ANY tech when it comes to messing with my cars. Missing hardware, forgetting to put fluid back in a previous C63 diff, lose drain plugs... Seen and dealt with it all.
I beive in the long run, it's a safeguard for the engine internals. I've never lost an engine due to leaking seals, rings and excessive wear. I know it's a little more expensive, but I'm perfectly okay with that.
I beive in the long run, it's a safeguard for the engine internals. I've never lost an engine due to leaking seals, rings and excessive wear. I know it's a little more expensive, but I'm perfectly okay with that.
#17
MBWorld Fanatic!
Unless you track your car, I think it just a waste of your money. None of us will ever test our car like Mercedes has been testing for century. If they say 10k miles for oil change, I’m going to change mine at 10k miles.
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dsoria87 (08-16-2019)
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My wife got me in the habit of changing the oil every time we can divide the nileage equally by 5 as in 5K, 10K, 15K... Been doing this for 35 years now. And, at 70 it's alittle more effort to be crawling around under my cars. BUT, I don't trust ANY tech when it comes to messing with my cars. Missing hardware, forgetting to put fluid back in a previous C63 diff, lose drain plugs... Seen and dealt with it all.
I beive in the long run, it's a safeguard for the engine internals. I've never lost an engine due to leaking seals, rings and excessive wear. I know it's a little more expensive, but I'm perfectly okay with that.
I beive in the long run, it's a safeguard for the engine internals. I've never lost an engine due to leaking seals, rings and excessive wear. I know it's a little more expensive, but I'm perfectly okay with that.
Last edited by mstraka; 08-16-2019 at 08:50 AM.
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///Bruce (03-20-2020)
#20
I had a very difficult time removing the oil filter. It seemed to be held in place with some spring type plastic holder with a plastic tip (see image, the long tube looking thing). The oil filter has 4 plastic prongs sticking out the bottom and I'm not sure if they still need that plastic tip to go through it. I put the oil filter back in without the plastic tip protruding out of the filter and tightened the cap on. I've not heard of anyone else having this issue. Is it 2015 C63S model specific? Is there anything sticking out of the four prongs in the oil filter when it's housed in the oil filter housing for anyone else?
![](https://dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net/strapr1/e79e5d7c24ac0df174b7e50616cfe735/c3465be7a06e1d4eebeeb27bd8e94f46.png)
![](https://dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net/strapr1/e79e5d7c24ac0df174b7e50616cfe735/c3465be7a06e1d4eebeeb27bd8e94f46.png)
![](https://cdn8.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/SuperStock/278-180-00-09-M36.jpg)
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I had a very difficult time removing the oil filter. It seemed to be held in place with some spring type plastic holder with a plastic tip (see image, the long tube looking thing). The oil filter has 4 plastic prongs sticking out the bottom and I'm not sure if they still need that plastic tip to go through it. I put the oil filter back in without the plastic tip protruding out of the filter and tightened the cap on. I've not heard of anyone else having this issue. Is it 2015 C63S model specific? Is there anything sticking out of the four prongs in the oil filter when it's housed in the oil filter housing for anyone else?
![](https://dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net/strapr1/e79e5d7c24ac0df174b7e50616cfe735/c3465be7a06e1d4eebeeb27bd8e94f46.png)
![](https://cdn8.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/SuperStock/278-180-00-09-M36.jpg)
![](https://dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net/strapr1/e79e5d7c24ac0df174b7e50616cfe735/c3465be7a06e1d4eebeeb27bd8e94f46.png)
![](https://cdn8.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/SuperStock/278-180-00-09-M36.jpg)
Is that a Mercedes factory filter parts diagram you've included?
Last edited by mstraka; 03-20-2020 at 06:03 PM.
#23
Yes I believe so, I got it from here: MBpartsonline . Also the youtube video above shows the tube which the filter goes on however mine had a strange cap sticking out of the 4 prongs on the filter. It seemed to be holding the filter on.
#24
Yes I believe so, I got it from here: MBpartsonline . Also the youtube video above shows the tube which the filter goes on however mine had a strange cap sticking out of the 4 prongs on the filter. It seemed to be holding the filter on.
#25
Member
New here. I'm the new owner of a 2018 AMG C63s I purchased used. I've been searching through the forums on oil change advice. Several posts have been helpful but I think it would be good to have all the information at one place. I hope some DIY members can share their information / experience and advice. Not a lot of clear instructions on YouTube for changing oil on the AMG 4.0 litre V8.
1) A good source (sources) for the parts? I use fcpeuro for all my parts
2) It appears that there are two drain plugs. A plastic plug located near the filter housing and a second metal plug - center forward location from the filter? I replaced the plastic plug with a metal one that the dealer offers
3) The plastic plug is to be replaced with a new plastic plug which comes with the O ring? How tight to screw in the plastic plug? Remove and replace it with a large flat blade screwdriver? The metal plug is reusable but requires a new copper washer. How tight to fasten it, about 20 ft. lbs.? - see above - replace with metal and dont over tighten
4) The oil filter cannister is removed with what mm size of socket? Alternately can you can use a 10mm hex key socket (the hex is located inside the filter housing nut?) How tight to torque the filter housing? There is no torque specs for this that Im aware of, let the oring do its job and tighten just past hand tight
5) Are there one or two pans to remove under the engine to gain access to the above? I only remove 1
6) What are the numbers for the parts to purchase? I only purchase the filter and 1 time purchase of metal drain plug from the dealer, I purchase the oil (liqui moly) and ceratec additive from fcp euro
Thanks.
1) A good source (sources) for the parts? I use fcpeuro for all my parts
2) It appears that there are two drain plugs. A plastic plug located near the filter housing and a second metal plug - center forward location from the filter? I replaced the plastic plug with a metal one that the dealer offers
3) The plastic plug is to be replaced with a new plastic plug which comes with the O ring? How tight to screw in the plastic plug? Remove and replace it with a large flat blade screwdriver? The metal plug is reusable but requires a new copper washer. How tight to fasten it, about 20 ft. lbs.? - see above - replace with metal and dont over tighten
4) The oil filter cannister is removed with what mm size of socket? Alternately can you can use a 10mm hex key socket (the hex is located inside the filter housing nut?) How tight to torque the filter housing? There is no torque specs for this that Im aware of, let the oring do its job and tighten just past hand tight
5) Are there one or two pans to remove under the engine to gain access to the above? I only remove 1
6) What are the numbers for the parts to purchase? I only purchase the filter and 1 time purchase of metal drain plug from the dealer, I purchase the oil (liqui moly) and ceratec additive from fcp euro
Thanks.