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I has never have to change the belt on all the Mercedes I owned. My last car with the highest mileage 2009 Slk55 with 175k miles still in original belt.
I brought my car in because there had been a squeak, sounded like a bad bearing. Technician stated both belts and tensioners show wear. Dealership is stating they need to drain the intercooler.
labor hours: 3.9
total: $1369.23
Does the intercooler inlet line pass through the belt?
I asked for parts and labor breakdown.
I checked the price for OEM parts.
Tensioner, Right: $189.48
Tensioner, Left: $143.42
I saw there is a belt tool made to get belts on in tight areas. Anyone have a set of instructions for doing this job? The order of disassembly/reassembly would be very helpful.
I brought my car in because there had been a squeak, sounded like a bad bearing. Technician stated both belts and tensioners show wear. Dealership is stating they need to drain the intercooler.
labor hours: 3.9
total: $1369.23
Does the intercooler inlet line pass through the belt?
I asked for parts and labor breakdown.
I checked the price for OEM parts.
Tensioner, Right: $189.48
Tensioner, Left: $143.42
I saw there is a belt tool made to get belts on in tight areas. Anyone have a set of instructions for doing this job? The order of disassembly/reassembly would be very helpful.
thanks
I have a online manual, Ill have a look and upload the steps for it.
I have driver assist. I also have an Autel Scanner/Programmer so programming or resetting the computer isn't a problem for me. The job is more involved than I have time for right now. I don't want to keep driving it and chance damaging the engine from throwing the belt.
I have driver assist. I also have an Autel Scanner/Programmer so programming or resetting the computer isn't a problem for me. The job is more involved than I have time for right now. I don't want to keep driving it and chance damaging the engine from throwing the belt.
I told them to go a head and do it.
Not sure if you will be able to code it without xentry. All safety related issues are unreachable for regular obds…
Here is an update of my experience paying to have work done. I had a horrible experience. This is the text communication with the service manager. I wanted to make sure the idler pulleys were included in the job order.
There is still a noise on startup coming from in there- I'm guessing it is one of the idler pulleys. Here is a copy of the statement. As it is here, the idler pulleys were not included in the service.
Side note, the other issue was with the alignment. Sears Imports in Minnetonka, MN stated I had a problem with the rear alignment. That some mystery part was needed to complete the rear alignment. In actuality they misaligned the toe adjustment on the front left side and was trying to scam me. The alignment job Sears Imports completed was off, the situation wasn't as Sears Imports claimed.
Getting back to the service I received from Feldmann Imports in Bloomington, MN. The service manager stated the idler pulleys were included. Not only did they screw me on the repair they scratched my car. I had just detailed the car prior to the belts squeaking.
These scratches were not here before the service.
There is a mark and scratch on my passenger door.
Look at the mark Feldmann's made.
They scratched my car.
This damage would not have happened if I had bought the parts and did the work myself. I'm going to buy the idler pulleys and change those out myself. I'm the only person who cares if my car is repaired correctly- I will do a much better job.
Trust level is at the zero mark with any dealership.
What can Mercedes do about their dealerships giving terrible service and/or ripping people off.
Not sure if you will be able to code it without xentry. All safety related issues are unreachable for regular obds…
Furthermore, I highly doubt anything requires coding. You're likely trolling the thread, have in interest in deterring people from doing their own work.
Autel MaxiSys MS906TS I own can do the coding if necessary, highly unlikely any coding would be required to change out the parts.
I bought the programmer to buy this C63. I didn't want to be taken advantage of. It was stated in a forum thread that changing the brake pads requires ABS to be reprogrammed- Which is a flat out lie.
More lies, you cannot be trusted.
.
Last edited by anwar_hamoude; Jan 19, 2022 at 08:12 AM.
2 tensioners
3 pulleys
2 belts I didn't get the brackets as I decided that wasn't a part that would be needing any replacing.
Reason for replacing everything: it's a hard job to do. little to no room to work with tbh even tho its a "3 hour" job. I really just needed one of the belts replaced but why pay labor over again to replace just 1 belt when I might as well do preventive maintenance and replace them all
total was around $700 in parts and my indy shop charged me $300 for labor.
From above, I did get around to buying the idler pulleys and changing them. I reviewed instructions from ALL DATA. ALL DATA is not very comprehensive and it would have been nice to have a few details.
Now it was time to change the belts. As I mentioned ALL DATA does not have comprehensive instructions. Pulling out the cooling fan is difficult. All the rubber around the radiator housing needs to come out. To change the belts and pull the intercooler lines the radiator needs to get lifted up. The a/c is connected, the a/c line needs to be disconnected. Then also there is a sensor attached to the radiator. The line to the sensor is attached to the frame in the front, there is enough wire to disconnect another sensor on that line to have enough slack to lift the radiator.
Unbolt the sensor there and there is enough slack to pull up the radiator. Even knowing these details I highly doubt that i could do this job in 4 hours. Previously when I swapped out the idler pulleys i just pushed the radiator forward enough to get my hand in there.
I pulled the radiator up and had it sitting on the frame. I forgot to snap picture. I refilled the a/c and it is blowing cold air. And be careful not to loose any oil from the intercooler, keep the hoses up and against something.
Not a fun job. I didn’t check if I have any codes. If so, I’ll just clear the codes. From the previous comments, tensioners are spring loaded. Nothing electrical is connected to the belt tensioners. Xentry is not needed- LOL f’ing troll
From above, I did get around to buying the idler pulleys and changing them. I reviewed instructions from ALL DATA. ALL DATA is not very comprehensive and it would have been nice to have a few details.
Now it was time to change the belts. As I mentioned ALL DATA does not have comprehensive instructions. Pulling out the cooling fan is difficult. All the rubber around the radiator housing needs to come out. To change the belts and pull the intercooler lines the radiator needs to get lifted up. The a/c is connected, the a/c line needs to be disconnected. Then also there is a sensor attached to the radiator. The line to the sensor is attached to the frame in the front, there is enough wire to disconnect another sensor on that line to have enough slack to lift the radiator.
Unbolt the sensor there and there is enough slack to pull up the radiator. Even knowing these details I highly doubt that i could do this job in 4 hours. Previously when I swapped out the idler pulleys i just pushed the radiator forward enough to get my hand in there.
I pulled the radiator up and had it sitting on the frame. I forgot to snap picture. I refilled the a/c and it is blowing cold air. And be careful not to loose any oil from the intercooler, keep the hoses up and against something.
Not a fun job. I didn’t check if I have any codes. If so, I’ll just clear the codes. From the previous comments, tensioners are spring loaded. Nothing electrical is connected to the belt tensioners. Xentry is not needed- LOL f’ing troll
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Oh boy! thought we were talking about seat belts hahaha
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