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what is the best way to correct the camber on the front axle if you lower the car. I would take the "KW camber correction kit". Is there any cheaper option, that also works?
Other than that...I just replace tires a bit more often as needed, love my camber. KMAC has good and bad reviews but apparently most bad are supposedly due to wrong installation.
FOR THE C63/S WE NOW MANUFACTURE A "TOTAL SYSTEM" WITH 3 OPTIONS FOR THE FRONT RE ADJUSTMENT OF "BOTH" CAMBER AND ALSO CASTER. WHILE FOR THE REAR 2 OPTIONS - AGAIN "BOTH" CAMBER AND ALSO "EXTRA" TOE TO COMPENSATE FOR THE NEW REAR CAMBER SETTINGS.
PLUS ALSO FOR THE REAR POPULAR UPRATED BUSHINGS FOR THE '6' MULTI LINK ARMS. LESS TWITCH, FLEX, LOSS OF TRACTION, ESPECIALLY WHEN APPLYING POWER TO LANE CHANGE / OVERTAKE.
1. FRONT SUSPENSION:
#503316-2 J $380 (Both Sides) Budget priced replacement upper arm inner bushings. Fast fit without arm removal (bush extraction tool included) 1.5 degrees Positive or Negative precise Camber adjustment. More than enough to resolve most costly, premature tire wear issues. At $380 (both sides) less than the cost of a high performance tire.
Also the security, peace of mind of "retaining the original HIGH STRENGTH FORGED ALLOY ARMS" - not replacing with welded, fabricated arms!
2. #503316-3 P $795 (Both Sides) Complete " replacement" upper arms like above (#1) KMAC are not only Camber but also Caster” adjustable
These KMAC complete arms are same design as OEM. The security, peace of mind of high strength, forged alloy / not welded, fabricated.
Many brands provide Camber only. But “Caster” adjustment allows to compensate for Camber change plus correctly resolves steering pull.
3. #503316 K $480 (Both Sides) Also front lower (not upper) replacement Camber and Caster bushings. Replacing at same time the 4 highest wearing, Providing again up to 1.5 degrees Positive or Negative Camber adjustment.
THIS UNIQUE KMAC PATENTED DESIGN allows precise single wrench adjustment – accurately under load, direct on alignment rack.
The 2 forward facing thrust arm bushes (now precisely Caster adjustable) unlike other brands set new standards - KMAC being Mono ball / 2 Axis, allowing arms to travel through their “required suspension arcs” without binding / locking up. Plus the advantage of improved “brake and steering” response by eliminating the soft rubber, oil and air voided OEM bushings.
ANOTHER KMAC DESIGN BREAKTHROUGH - bushings have more than "twice the load bearing, impact area" of often used steel spherical ball joints - that with their wafer thin teflon liners soon pound out.
FOR THE REAR SUSPENSION:
4. #502226 K $480 (Both Sides) Lower arm inner bushings Camber (and also extra Toe adjustment to compensate for the new rear Camber facility). Precise single wrench adjustable.
* Note Adjusting “lower arms” retains top of tire to outer fender clearance when wanting to reduce costly, premature, inner edge wear.
5. #502226-1 M $595 (Both Sides) Alternatively upper Camber arms (also extra Toe adjustment to compensate)
*Reduces clearance top of tire to outer fender when adjusting to reduce inner edge wear.
6.#502526 K $480 (Both Sides) "Uprated bushings" for the '6' multi link rear arms. - less twitch, flex, loss of traction – especially when applying power to lane change / overtake
DHL Air worldwide $40 one kit, $20 each additional. PayPal, Visa or M/Card.
World's Largest Range Audi to Volvo. Competition Proven, Long term maintenance free, Non squeak, Fail safe lock system. All the features you would expect - Longest established. Most experienced, Adjustable Strut Tops and Bushing Kit Manufacturers.
I have a 2018 C63 Coupe with 18 inch wheels, Michelin pilot super sports 255/40 ZR18. I am trying to find out the official MB front wheel camber settings. The tyre fitter says they are between minus 1.51 and minus 1.08 whereas my actual settings are between minus 2.15 and 2.18.
Does anyone know the official MB settings for my car?
General question - when lowering, is it mostly the front that gets out of wack? I just got an alignment done on stock suspension, camber F&R is between -2.0 to -2.4 which is good for me... I like a little negative camber. C63s come like that out of the factory. Factory range for the front are -1.5 to -2.2 range for camber. Toe was within spec as well. Curious how much worst it gets within a mild lowering? @tobeit Do you know what you're running right now?
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Last edited by 1slick_c63amg; Aug 30, 2021 at 01:06 PM.
General question - when lowering, is it mostly the front that gets out of wack? I just got an alignment done on stock suspension, camber F&R is between -2.0 to -2.4 which is good for me... I like a little negative camber. C63s come like that out of the factory. Factory range for the front are -1.5 to -2.2 range for camber. Toe was within spec as well. Curious how much worst it gets within a mild lowering? @tobeit Do you know what you're running right now?
sub'd.
Yes, front is -2.8/-3.1, rear is a little less around -2.4/-2.6. Front wear much faster than rear.
General question - when lowering, is it mostly the front that gets out of wack? I just got an alignment done on stock suspension, camber F&R is between -2.0 to -2.4 which is good for me... I like a little negative camber. C63s come like that out of the factory. Factory range for the front are -1.5 to -2.2 range for camber. Toe was within spec as well. Curious how much worst it gets within a mild lowering? @tobeit Do you know what you're running right now?
sub'd.
Our cars come with pretty aggressive camber from factory. My sedan had same range of camber as you before lowering and after lowering with eibachs (0.8in front 0.4in rear) they went up by .2 or 3 on the fronts. The rears I had camber arms installed and set the camber to oem specs. Camber might be a tiny bit more now since the springs have settled.
If anyone is curious about tire wear, after 11000km my front tires are still fine. Wear looks even to me and no signs of premature inner edge wear (checked when my car was on a hoist few days ago).
Thanks to all of you for your replies. I am now comfortable that my car is within OEM tolerances for front wheel camber and that unless I am prepared to have camber adjustment fitted I will have to accept that the tyres will wear predominantly on the inside edge (which they do and evenly). Current front tyre life is around 9000 miles or 14000 km but then I only purchased the car for its looks, wonderful sound and effortless power on longer journeys. I am far too old and timid to use anything but a fraction of its capabilities.
Thanks to all of you for your replies. I am now comfortable that my car is within OEM tolerances for front wheel camber and that unless I am prepared to have camber adjustment fitted I will have to accept that the tyres will wear predominantly on the inside edge (which they do and evenly). Current front tyre life is around 9000 miles or 14000 km but then I only purchased the car for its looks, wonderful sound and effortless power on longer journeys. I am far too old and timid to use anything but a fraction of its capabilities.
You can most likely fix your inside tire wear by getting an alignment to adjust the toe. The factory specs for toe have it being toe out (-ive toe) which promotes inside tire wear. Getting your toe more neutral (as close to 0 as possible) should help your inside tire wear issue.
The factory specs for toe have it being toe out (-ive toe) which promotes inside tire wear. Getting your toe more neutral (as close to 0 as possible) should help your inside tire wear issue.
Yep I forgot to mention front toe. I had my front toe set to 0 which is probably why my tire wear is as it is.
Yes, front is -2.8/-3.1, rear is a little less around -2.4/-2.6. Front wear much faster than rear.
Originally Posted by dctwc63s
Our cars come with pretty aggressive camber from factory. My sedan had same range of camber as you before lowering and after lowering with eibachs (0.8in front 0.4in rear) they went up by .2 or 3 on the fronts. The rears I had camber arms installed and set the camber to oem specs. Camber might be a tiny bit more now since the springs have settled.
If anyone is curious about tire wear, after 11000km my front tires are still fine. Wear looks even to me and no signs of premature inner edge wear (checked when my car was on a hoist few days ago).
KMAC solution looks like the best option. If I am reading it correctly. I want symmetrical alignment. I prefer to be slightly aggressive with camber. Car is at stock height.
As I understand it, KMAC front bushing kit. Factory bushings for front control arms are replaced with adjustable bushings, both spring link and lateral arm. That will correct the caster and camber.
Camber, top of the tire can be adjusted with upper wishbone inner bushing kit.
If caster was symmetrical then the upper wishbone bushing replacement would correct just the camber?
I am curious to know how pushing the wishbone in or out affects caster. I am wondering if both sides are set symmetrical with the wishbone kit, -2.5 degrees would the caster then be symmetrical?
The rear alignment seems less complicated. I am not certain which is the correct kit. Will either do the job?
502226 K R, [size=16px]This kit has C63 mentioned but also 4MATIC.
502226-1M, Turnbuckle and toe, W205 is listed.[/size]
I replaced the left spring link due to squeaky ball joint. I don't know if that corrected or worsen the variation in the front alignment. I figured on replacing the right spring link next. Replacing all of the suspension parts is little expensive. Then having to pay $200 to have the alignment checked- Plus the fact they can only move the toe in and out makes it seem like a real waste of money.
Adjustability should have came stock. Adding adjustable bushings is a lot of money to dishout just to achieve proper alignment.
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Last edited by anwar_hamoude; Jan 28, 2022 at 08:55 PM.
KMAC solution looks like the best option. If I am reading it correctly. I want symmetrical alignment. I prefer to be slightly aggressive with camber. Car is at stock height.
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Re C63/S - answer to your queries.
But damn - did not want to upset #17 any more then necessary so reply have set out as a attachment.
Re your mention "Adjustability should have come stock"
Yes, you would think some accountability would be directed to the highly profitable new car manufacturers creating cost savings by there deletion.
KMAC's role in the aftermarket industry being to provide a solution to the fact the often quoted "Full '4' wheel alignment" is only 'Toe' directional adjustment. With most owners unaware, but convinced surely there must be "Full ongoing adjustment" to resolve costly, premature edge wear !
Presuming instead continued premature replacement is either - lack of alignment expertise or result of incorrect choice of tire brand !
Spoiler
1. Yes Camber & Caster lower control arm bush kit is the ultimate. Patented design provides precise single wrench adjustment and easiest system to access / adjust. Also Caster bushes are Monoball / 2 Axis significantly improving brake and steering response. Camber bushes can be fitted without need for arm removal and no special tools required. #503316K $480 (BOTH SIDES) All Models.
Nothing out there comes close re strength, range (& ease) of adjustment and fitment time.
NOTE: Also manufactured above "Camber' only kit #503316-1i $345 (BOTH SIDES)
2. Re Front Top of tire / upper wishbone inner bush kit. Can precisely adjust - "separate" for both Camber and Caster settings. Designed so no need for upper arm or strut removal negating any special tools being required.
NOTE: Unlike "#1" - When adjusting to resolve premature inner edge tire wear does reduce clearence top of tire to outer fender (#1 also still wins out re fitment time). #503316-2J $380 (BOTH SIDES) Camber & Caster.
REAR ALIGNMENT:
3. C63 'S' Coupe #502326-1K $480 (BOTH SIDES)Lower arm inner bush kit. This model these inner bushes have provision for offset plates, but only allowing for a minuscule .3 of one degree adjustment (3mm - 1/8").
KMAC kit provides 4 times adjustment and is precise single wrench accurately on alignment rack (under load). Also includes extra Toe adjustment to compensate for the new Camber facility. Bush extraction tool included allowing fitment without need for arm removal.
4. C63 Coupe, C63/S Sedan, Wagon #502226K $480 (Both Sides). Similar to C63 'S' Coupe above with same features.
5. Upper turnbuckle adjustable Camber arms (as above #3 also includes extra Rear Toe adjustment) C63/S Coupe #502226-3M $595 (BOTH SIDES) C63/S Sedan, Wagon #502226-1M $595 (BOTH SIDES)
NOTE: Same as Front "upper" arms - does reduce clearence top of tire to outer fender when wanting to resolve premature inner edge tire wear also loses out (versus #3 & 4) re ease of access to adjust.
KMAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964 AUDI TO VOLVO
Re C63/S - answer to your queries.
But damn - did not want to upset #17 any more then necessary so reply have set out as a attachment.
Re your mention "Adjustability should have come stock"
Yes, you would think some accountability would be directed to the highly profitable new car manufacturers creating cost savings by there deletion.
KMAC's role in the aftermarket industry being to provide a solution to the fact the often quoted "Full '4' wheel alignment" is only 'Toe' directional adjustment. With most owners unaware, but convinced surely there must be "Full ongoing adjustment" to resolve costly, premature edge wear !
Presuming instead continued premature replacement is either - lack of alignment expertise or result of incorrect choice of tire brand !
The cost of replacement parts is frustrating. Ball joints are not replaceable, the entire control has yo be replaced. Plus the cost of additional speciality bushings. I want the alignment dialed in for performance- the only way is to allow for adjustment. I believe KMAC solution is the most viable option. I have added front and rear bushing kits to my parts list. Ball joints are higher on the list.
I can definitively say that the K-Mac kit is the best and is what I use. Take a look at my ThunderHill track day thread and you can see all the mods I have done to make my car perform better on track. Without a doubt, the K-Mac camber kit was one of the best bang for the buck mods I did. If I remember correctly, I was able to get about -2.5 or -2.75 on the front and that was night and day on the track. Yeah, it still understeers a bit but the compromise is that I can run this amount of camber on the street as well and it does not adversely affect my tire wear beyond what I would expect. If you plan to track your car, get this kit. If you just want a bit more performance on the street, get this kit but keep it around -1.5 or perhaps even -2; you will notice a profound difference in handling.
Im getting nasty wear on the inside of my front tires... just purchased Kmac Front camber & caster kit (Kit #503316-K). Sucks stock setup can't be adjusted more to help with this problem.
Great customer service btw if anyone decides to call them directly.
I'm on stock ride height btw.
inside rim damage is from my local carwash... never going back there again. the tire width is too wide for that carwash. Lesson learned!
I can definitively say that the K-Mac kit is the best and is what I use. Take a look at my ThunderHill track day thread and you can see all the mods I have done to make my car perform better on track. Without a doubt, the K-Mac camber kit was one of the best bang for the buck mods I did. If I remember correctly, I was able to get about -2.5 or -2.75 on the front and that was night and day on the track. Yeah, it still understeers a bit but the compromise is that I can run this amount of camber on the street as well and it does not adversely affect my tire wear beyond what I would expect. If you plan to track your car, get this kit. If you just want a bit more performance on the street, get this kit but keep it around -1.5 or perhaps even -2; you will notice a profound difference in handling.
Kurt
Thanks for those numbers! I was looking at what other peeps had for those settings.
Here are my numbers, before (top) stock suspension and after being lowered on HR springs with 15 mm front and 12 mm rear spacers from supreme power (bottom).
Just ordered Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs. While I have my shop install them, I’m going to have them install a Kmac kit.
Is the $295 2-piece front camber only kit sufficient? It seems it will adjust camber and toe to prolong tire life. I don’t need crazy levels of adjustment for the track. This is a weekend car.
The rear kit(s) for the C63s seem to be a bit more involved and expensive. Are they required? From what I read, when lowering the car, the fronts get more out of alignment spec than the rears. Thoughts?
@K-Mac - if I need to adjust camber and toe for when I lower the vehicle with springs, just for the purpose of saving tires (not for tracking the vehicle), at a minimum, which product(s) do I need? Thank you!
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