Brakes squealing








On the first set it drove me nuts so I took them off, rubbed them down with 230 grit sandpaper, applied copper grease to the back of the pads and it fixed the squealing for 1 whole week. Came back again after.
Even tried the old reverse fast and slam on the brakes trick but that did sh*t all.
2 more sets later and brand new pads and rotors squealing again. Oh well.
Last edited by Jimmy_c63s; Dec 4, 2020 at 05:01 AM.
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Best option is to change to aftermarket pads, I've ordered Portfields, but there are other recommended options if you do a search.
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One of the things about brakes that folks may not be aware of, is that they operate in two distinct modes. When they are cold, they operate in abrasive mode, essentially scraping against the rotor. This can cause noise, but also it slowly removes any pad material layer that you may have previously laid down during a bedding and eventually they are scrapping against bare metal again. When they are hot, that's when pad material transfers to the rotor and friction starts to happen between the pads and the pad material on the rotors. This is what you want, because the friction is the best between the same material. Pad material to pad material instead of pad material to metal. It means that if you primarly do daily driving, your brakes largely operate in abrasive mode and any bedding you may have done will eventually be ineffective. You really need to excersise the brakes periodically and get them hot occasionally to maintain the pad material layer, or you will sooner or later suffer from noisy brakes.
BTW, this is an excellent video on the subject:
Last edited by superswiss; Dec 4, 2020 at 10:50 AM.




One of the things about brakes that folks may not be aware of, is that they operate in two distinct modes. When they are cold, they operate in abrasive mode, essentially scraping against the rotor. This can cause noise, but also it slowly removes any pad material layer that you may have previously laid down during a bedding and eventually they are scrapping against bare metal again. When they are hot, that's when pad material transfers to the rotor and friction starts to happen between the pads and the pad material on the rotors. This is what you want, because the friction is the best between the same material. Pad material to pad material instead of pad material to metal. It means that if you primarly do daily driving, your brakes largely operate in abrasive mode and any bedding you may have done will eventually be ineffective. You really need to excersise the brakes periodically and get them hot occasionally to maintain the pad material layer, or you will sooner or later suffer from noisy brakes.
BTW, this is an excellent video on the subject:
https://youtu.be/pdPX6rzuINc




As for the faint noise I was talking about, that actually turned out not to be brake related at all. It was the damper modules of the rear shocks that made the noise. It took me a while to get the dealership to diagnose it properly, but they eventually replaced my rear shocks under warranty and that noise is now completely gone. I initially thought it was a high pitch squealing noise caused by the brakes, but it was actually a high pitch electronic noise caused by the damper modules.
I just recently had a full brake job done as both front and rear brakes were worn again. I'm on my third set of rotors and pads in the front, second set of rotors and third set of pads in the rear. FWIW, roughly 32k miles at the moment. AMGs eat brakes for breakfast if you drive it like its meant to be driven.




As for the faint noise I was talking about, that actually turned out not to be brake related at all. It was the damper modules of the rear shocks that made the noise. It took me a while to get the dealership to diagnose it properly, but they eventually replaced my rear shocks under warranty and that noise is now completely gone. I initially thought it was a high pitch squealing noise caused by the brakes, but it was actually a high pitch electronic noise caused by the damper modules.
I just recently had a full brake job done as both front and rear brakes were worn again. I'm on my third set of rotors and pads in the front, second set of rotors and third set of pads in the rear. FWIW, roughly 32k miles at the moment. AMGs eat brakes for breakfast if you drive it like its meant to be driven.
This april had B Service completed (at MB Dealership)and one of the "Recommendation" was to replace the rear rotors and brakes that were measured at 4-5 mm. I decided to wait until the Check Brake light appears. Plus they wanted just over $2,000 to replace the rear rotors/brakes.
That "Recommendation" was 1,800 miles ago.
Wonder if that high pitch sound could be the rear shocks? I extended my MB warranty but leaving the car at the Dealeship is a real pain as they keep it forever to get a repair done.
Recently driving at approx. 40 miles an hour I had to make a panic stop as the car in front of me had come to a full stop. I was ready for the crash. Luckily my car was able to stop within a few feet of the other car rear end. My summer tires have I believe have about only 2,000 miles. This close call will help me monitor my tire condition more closely especially in wet conditions.
A MB site below (see last video) show stopping distance in wet conditions with different tire wear.
mbusatirecenter.com
Last edited by jj18; Jul 13, 2023 at 03:01 PM.




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