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2017 Mercedes-Benz AMG C63 Cabriolet, 2014 Ducati Multistrada 1200 S
Originally Posted by user33
While the larger front rotors on the C63 S are a little pricey, the other parts are not particularly expensive compared to other cars in a similar category. If you DIY and purchase the Brembo rotors from FCP Euro (no affiliation, just a customer), you can reduce your costs considerably (and brakes are pretty easy to do). If you track your car, replace the standard front rotors with the Brembo 2-piece rotors and they'll run much (as much as 100 deg C) cooler and your brake pads will last longer and track/race pads are required if you get aggressive (as is high-temp brake fluid).
If you have the carbon ceramic brakes ... well, those parts are outrageously expensive for any car.
As far as tires go, tires are tires, bigger costs more, better normally costs more ... driving habits cost more or less, depending upon the "style." Same for any car in a similar category.
For cars in this category, you should always get the best brakes and tires available based upon the tasks to which the car is applied.
I got about 11k miles out of my last set of tires. I could easily get 30-40k miles out of a set of tires on a more economical vehicle.
Front brakes lasted 28k miles and cost about a grand for the front brake pads and new rotors installed at the dealership. The 30k service cost $1600 and rear brakes needed pads only which added another $500 to the bill.
I don’t track my car but if you factor in fuel costs, maintenance and insurance this is an expensive car to operate.
2017 Mercedes-Benz AMG C63 Cabriolet, 2014 Ducati Multistrada 1200 S
Originally Posted by SEAMG
It’s interesting that Mercedes official consumption numbers under Premium Gasoline is 21 combined city/highway MPG 18 city 27 highway but most of us here get much lower figures. I don’t mind to pay to play but Mercedes claim is clearly wrong and a bit deceiving.
It depends how you drive it.
I drive like a bit of a hooligan, always in sport+ mode and I just checked my computer to see what my average is and it said that over the last 2900 miles driven I averaged 14.8 mpg... which is actually worse than I thought but not really surprising.
It’s interesting that Mercedes official consumption numbers under Premium Gasoline is 21 combined city/highway MPG 18 city 27 highway but most of us here get much lower figures. I don’t mind to pay to play but Mercedes claim is clearly wrong and a bit deceiving.
That's because the drive cycles are completely unrealistic. They are driven with ECO start/stop on and have long enough stops to yield an advantage. They drive like a granny, with very little acceleration keeping the engine out of boost and often use tricks like overinflating the tires etc. Boost is what kills your mpg. It's long been the dirty secret of downsized engines. As long as you drive at low rpm before boost kicks in, you get the high mpg, but boost means more air, more air means more fuel needed. One of the classic examples is the Boxter 718 with its four cylinder engine. It was discovered that in the real world it's less fuel efficient than the previous 6 cylinder naturally aspirated engine. That's because nobody drives a Boxter the way they do for the official numbers. Emissions is the same thing. The limits only have to be met in ideal conditions. It's long known that in the real world combustion engines pollute more by several factors. This is all a shell game.
While the larger front rotors on the C63 S are a little pricey, the other parts are not particularly expensive compared to other cars in a similar category. If you DIY and purchase the Brembo rotors from FCP Euro (no affiliation, just a customer), you can reduce your costs considerably (and brakes are pretty easy to do). If you track your car, replace the standard front rotors with the Brembo 2-piece rotors and they'll run much (as much as 100 deg C) cooler and your brake pads will last longer and track/race pads are required if you get aggressive (as is high-temp brake fluid).
If you have the carbon ceramic brakes ... well, those parts are outrageously expensive for any car.
As far as tires go, tires are tires, bigger costs more, better normally costs more ... driving habits cost more or less, depending upon the "style." Same for any car in a similar category.
For cars in this category, you should always get the best brakes and tires available based upon the tasks to which the car is applied.
Would you be able to link the 2piece rotor from FCP? Also do you change the brake fluid before a track day? If so which one did you go with?
Would you be able to link the 2piece rotor from FCP? Also do you change the brake fluid before a track day? If so which one did you go with?
I have the links for the C63 and C63s in this post where I was looking into it. C63 Brakes
On the topic of fuel consumption, this car doesn't do bad on the highway for what it is: a 4.0l twin turbo V8. It suffers in stop-and-go traffic just like any other car. The 335i that I had before did better on the highway with it's 3.0l twin turbo in-line 6, but still got terrible mileage around town. I recall tanks where I got less than 13 mpg with that car.
I change my brake fluid once per year and use a Motive brake bleeder to help with the process. I believe Castrol SRF has the best specs but, at times, it can be difficult to get and I've used Motul 660 and not had any issues (and our local-area track is brutal on brakes!).
I also added some brake-cooling ducts and have moved to EBC RP-X pads on the fronts and EBC Blue Stuff pads on the rears.
FYI, here's why the 2-piece rotors run cooler, especially with brake-cooling ducts (up to 200 deg C cooler with ducts, compred to stock rotors with ducts): Stock rotor-face bridges are smaller but look like they'll restrict more air flow
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