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Battery Indicator - Added new audio amplifier and started getting this error
Hey folks - Hopefully someone here can give me some advice. I have a 2018 AMG C63s where I've added a new sub box and amplifier. After adding them, I've started getting a Battery indicator message stating to stop the vehicle and let the engine run. This happens even when I'm not actively using the audio sound, but when I'm on the cell phone or even just pushing the engine power.
I've thought about adding an additional battery with isolator for the amp to pull from instead of the main battery but before going through that expense I figured I would ask the collective if anyone has had this problem before what did they do to fix it.
Hey folks - Hopefully someone here can give me some advice. I have a 2018 AMG C63s where I've added a new sub box and amplifier. After adding them, I've started getting a Battery indicator message stating to stop the vehicle and let the engine run. This happens even when I'm not actively using the audio sound, but when I'm on the cell phone or even just pushing the engine power.
I've thought about adding an additional battery with isolator for the amp to pull from instead of the main battery but before going through that expense I figured I would ask the collective if anyone has had this problem before what did they do to fix it.
MB's and more so our versions are VERY VERY picky about amps and pulling power. So 1000% something was hooked up wrong and seems to be drawing more load then the benz is happy with.
(when did you last change the original battery ? ) if it still has the original, it could be that its on its last leg as well...
I always advise anyone doing anything electrical on these cars always self isolate it, and stay off the main harness, because even a simple led buld can throw the car into havic, as when it attempts to power down all systems in sleep mode etc.. it cant, and then goes off the rails.
2019 MB C63s Coupe, 2004 Audi S4, 2011 Porsche Boxster Spyder, building Cobra Daytona Coupe now
Depending on the amp draw I would consider replacing the battery or really replacing with two. I did a full sound system on mine with approx 1,500 watts at 4 ohms and replaced the existing battery with two XS batteries in its place. With some rejiggering under the trunk they fit.
Yea that would take a bank of a few, I have seen some cars flip out even when the car is running and stereos are turned on and pull more and put a load on the battery etc.. Its best to add larger/stronger batteries, and then capacitors to assist in the process, so the car doesnt flip out on it.
What was the issue with your original Sound system.?
The 2018 Burmeister sound really sucks. Tons of mid and high range but nothing down low, nearly zero bass. The two "subs" they have at the front firewall barely fire any bass. Nothing I did would work other than swapping them all out. Instead I added a 5 channel - 2500w amp (500w RMS) and 3, 8 inch subs in a low profile box. Now it sounds great but always get these battery warnings. I'm leaning towards getting an additional battery to run in parallel with the main battery and run an isolator.
I'm very disappointed in Mercedes on these sound systems. My wife's stock 2017 AMG GLC43 sounded far better than my stock 2018 AMG C63s sound system.
I installed the JL audio HD/750 in mine and I don’t have this issue. Maybe the amp stays on and keeps drawing power? Faulty amp? Faulty wiring? Improper installation?
I'm not a stereo installer - but he used 4guage wire from the battery to the fuse block and then to the amp. The speakers are running at 3 ohms which according to the amp specifications should be around 500 watts, here is the specs from the amp book:
RMS Power @ 4 ohms --> 400 watts x 1 channels
RMS Power @ 2 ohms --> 600 watts x 1 channels
RMS Power @ 1 ohm --> 300 watts x 1 channels
I'm figuring if it's at 3 ohms it'll be about 500w draw.
2019 MB C63s Coupe, 2004 Audi S4, 2011 Porsche Boxster Spyder, building Cobra Daytona Coupe now
Agree - sounded terrible. Basically MB's choices to 1. Put the tweeter in the doors, which destroys the soundstage (then try to make up for it with more mids/tweets in the dash, which is overkill and imbalanced) and 2. Not put midbass drivers in the doors and 3. Instead, combine what should be separate midbass drivers and subs into one speaker in the firewall, a poor location, makes it hard for anything to overcome overall bad design. I am at the extreme end of particular (just ask my wife), so bit the bullet and did a full system with custom door pods, a-pillar pods and sub in the trunk, but MB's choice to not at least provide proper speaker locations make any upgrade for anyone at any price point either not work as well as it could, be really expensive, or both. Put another way, MB did its customers a disservice in their speaker location choices.
The 2018 Burmeister sound really sucks. Tons of mid and high range but nothing down low, nearly zero bass. The two "subs" they have at the front firewall barely fire any bass. Nothing I did would work other than swapping them all out. Instead I added a 5 channel - 2500w amp (500w RMS) and 3, 8 inch subs in a low profile box. Now it sounds great but always get these battery warnings. I'm leaning towards getting an additional battery to run in parallel with the main battery and run an isolator.
I'm very disappointed in Mercedes on these sound systems. My wife's stock 2017 AMG GLC43 sounded far better than my stock 2018 AMG C63s sound system.
My 2009 C300 sounded great , I hope the 2021 Coupe doesn't sound like you describe.
I like the mid base that fills the cabin and sharp vocals .
So I found out that the installer grounded the amp to the chassis instead of the negative terminal of the battery. I spoke to the "European Car Specialist" installer from CarToys and he told me that is bad mojo with the C63 since it has a battery sensor on the negative lead. I'm going to get that fixed and see if the problem persists.
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