Hello, I was driving my 2019 C63s on the highway earlier tonight and it has a feature where if you get too close to a car when changing lanes, it'll pull the seatbelts onto you tightly, beep loudly, sometimes brake, and 'prepare' for impact as a safety mechanism.
Today, I was going about 130 on the highway and changed lanes past a car close enough to trigger the warning mechanism, it did everything, but immediately after if I pressed the gas, the car wouldn't go, the throttle wouldn't respond, this made my car drop down to around 70 MPH, and if I pressed gas after that it barely accelerated and continued to stay at a low speed/RPM. The car also started shaking very violently. It was kind of like a stutter throughout the car that wouldn't stop and shaking it. It seemed like it was coming from the underside like popped tires or something. It was like a very subtle but noticeable rocking/vibration throughout the entire car.
I checked the temps, it wasn't anything too high. I had to pull over. I turned off the car and turned it back on and everything went back to normal. The car drove perfectly fine on the way back after that. I looked through a bunch of the threads and a lot of people have ran into this issue it seems. But my case seems a little different. Would anyone have any insight on this?
I read a thread that says if your oil is the color of chocolate milk, it could be a coolant leak. I checked the oil just now and it seems to be that color. The last time I got an oil change has to be like two months. I have attached a picture.
If anyone has any knowledge on this, it would be greatly appreciated.
Color of oil seems to resemble chocolate milk, but I'm not sure
Hello, I was driving my 2019 C63s on the highway earlier tonight and it has a feature where if you get too close to a car when changing lanes, it'll pull the seatbelts onto you tightly, beep loudly, sometimes brake, and 'prepare' for impact as a safety mechanism.
Today, I was going about 130 on the highway and changed lanes past a car close enough to trigger the warning mechanism, it did everything, but immediately after if I pressed the gas, the car wouldn't go, the throttle wouldn't respond, this made my car drop down to around 70 MPH, and if I pressed gas after that it barely accelerated and continued to stay at a low speed/RPM. The car also started shaking very violently. It was kind of like a stutter throughout the car that wouldn't stop and shaking it. It seemed like it was coming from the underside like popped tires or something. It was like a very subtle but noticeable rocking/vibration throughout the entire car.
I checked the temps, it wasn't anything too high. I had to pull over. I turned off the car and turned it back on and everything went back to normal. The car drove perfectly fine on the way back after that. I looked through a bunch of the threads and a lot of people have ran into this issue it seems. But my case seems a little different. Would anyone have any insight on this?
I read a thread that says if your oil is the color of chocolate milk, it could be a coolant leak. I checked the oil just now and it seems to be that color. The last time I got an oil change has to be like two months. I have attached a picture.
If anyone has any knowledge on this, it would be greatly appreciated.
Color of oil seems to resemble chocolate milk, but I'm not sure
looks nothing like chocolate milk or coolant contaminated oil mate.....
scan the car pull codes and let us know
check for misfires first to rule out plugs coil packs or injectors
I would just take it to dealer and they can read the codes or any history of the event. If it started the moment the safety feature turned on it may be obvious to them to find. I would not bet on it but would give that a try first (even though today's mechanics mostly read codes and replace parts and know nothing about engines any more).
Okay thank you guys, I just got the car about two months ago with 16k miles so, I haven't really changed anything. I have an appointment for tomorrow, I'll tell them to pull the codes and possibly replace spark plugs, check coils, or even see if it was a misfire. I've seen a lot of people have trouble with the dealership not being able to fix these issues though so, it's kinda worrying. Would it still be safe to drive for now?
Okay thank you guys, I just got the car about two months ago with 16k miles so, I haven't really changed anything. I have an appointment for tomorrow, I'll tell them to pull the codes and possibly replace spark plugs, check coils, or even see if it was a misfire. I've seen a lot of people have trouble with the dealership not being able to fix these issues though so, it's kinda worrying. Would it still be safe to drive for now?
cant say if it’s safe or not, without knowing the code. If it was a misfire, yes it’s relatively ok to drive just keep speed and rpm low. You should see if autozone or oriley can check the code for you
cant say if it’s safe or not, without knowing the code. If it was a misfire, yes it’s relatively ok to drive just keep speed and rpm low. You should see if autozone or oriley can check the code for you
Okay I just took it into autozone and they checked, and there was nothing that showed up, no codes, no nothing. He told me since the CEL isn’t on anymore that could also be why but, what could this mean?
Okay I just took it into autozone and they checked, and there was nothing that showed up, no codes, no nothing. He told me since the CEL isn’t on anymore that could also be why but, what could this mean?
their scanner probably isn’t specific enough to pull codes on MB, generic OBDII won’t pull it. Probably safe to drive, it sounds like a misfire. Just don’t WOT it or drive it hard and see what the dealer says. Good luck!
Okay so I took it in, they checked the code and only one showed up and he told me it was a exhaust valve flap malfunction and said that it’s the only code that presented itself and it got cleared out. He says that there is no problem with the car. It doesn’t make sense though since I was only driving on one driving mode and the only way the flaps open or close is if I switch modes. I was only driving on one mode so the exhaust valve wasn’t touched, and shouldn’t have been affected. It doesn’t make sense to me and I told him that the valves weren’t even touched but he said that’s what happened.
does anyone have better insight on this as I it doesn’t make sense to me. The code was P13C287.
Okay so I took it in, they checked the code and only one showed up and he told me it was a exhaust valve flap malfunction and said that it’s the only code that presented itself and it got cleared out. He says that there is no problem with the car. It doesn’t make sense though since I was only driving on one driving mode and the only way the flaps open or close is if I switch modes. I was only driving on one mode so the exhaust valve wasn’t touched, and shouldn’t have been affected. It doesn’t make sense to me and I told him that the valves weren’t even touched but he said that’s what happened.
does anyone have better insight on this as I it doesn’t make sense to me. The code was P13C287.
The flaps open and close with changing RPM. Depending what mode you are in they just open earlier or later. But they are active and doing there thing not just when you switch modes.
The flaps open and close with changing RPM. Depending what mode you are in they just open earlier or later. But they are active and doing there thing not just when you switch modes.
*****This. Also, and one would need to verify - if one of the actuators has broken the metal spring that engages with the tang on the exhaust itself it can sometimes partially open or remain closed on one side while the other side works fine and the flaps will not open or close with changing RPM but instead just stay stuck open/closed or somewhere in between. Generally speaking, the flaps by the muffler when you look through the pipes should look symmetrical. If one is noticeably more closed than the other you may have a broken or worn actuator spring even with no codes. If this is the case, it is an easy fix as the actuators at the muffler area are easy to get to, and it is only a couple of bolts holding them on, plus the electrical connector which is just a plug.
Anyway, hope you figure it out and your problem was a one off issue as sometimes happens.
Your car is fine you were wide open throttle and the tc kicking in and the ecu couldn't react fast enough and it killed power dead stop and you got a miss fire and it cleared after restart.
The valve is something that can fail and put the car in limp mode and should be under warranty.
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