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Pricing and Sizing
There are two different sizing options, OEM size and 82mm size, both costing 620 and 685 USD respectively. I opted for the 82mm size intakes.
The OEM size reuses the stock rubber coupler that attaches the intake to the turbo, while the 82mm has a larger outlet.
I asked Modalworks about this, they say that they recommend the 82mm size for those that have upgraded turbos, or plan to do so. Both sizes will work on stock turbos.
Installation
If you opt for the OEM size intake, installation will be relatively easy. However, if you opt for the 82mm, installation will be a PITA.
This is because there is a hard glue (see photo below) that attaches the stock couplers to the circulation ports. I was not able to remove these myself, so I went to my local shop (2 hours labor).
If you don't plan on upgrading turbos, I suggest sticking with OEM size if you want easy installation.
Here is what they look like when installed. Notice that there ports on each intake for the intake sensors.
Subjective Enjoyment
Intake make cool whoosh sound, big like
Intake Air Temperatures
Unfortunately, I do not have any data for IATs on stock vs MW intakes. (I don't really know how you would measure this, maybe data logging?)
Therefore, I cannot make any conclusion on if these intakes negatively affect performance due to higher IATs, or if these intakes even cause higher IATs at all.
There is already lots of discussions and theories about how bad these intakes are for IATs. From my perspective, if there is no data, logging, or performance testing, no decisive conclusion can be made.
Either way, if temps are a concern, I would upgrade 3 piece radiators, trans split cooling, and perhaps run water methanol injection.
If anyone has data on this, it would be good to add to this thread.
Performance
I do not have any dyno runs, the only metric I have to test performance is dragy 60-100mph runs.
I would have liked to do 60-130mph, but I would rather not.
Here are the best runs I could do on stock and MW intakes respectively.
Mod list: Weistec ECU + CPC, FI catless DP, MW intakes
Stock Intakes
MW Intakes
I made these runs on the same road. There is an appreciable difference in DA in favor of the MW intakes, but I am not sure how much of a difference that would make.
It is important to note that these runs are on stock turbos. For upgraded turbos, it is reasonable to assume that the gap between these intakes will widen.
Apart from my own basic testing, MW claims that the fastest 60-130 record uses these very intakes. Mtech also claims to have a 1/4 mile WR C63 that is also powered by MW intakes.
Check Engine Light
For my car (2021), these intakes cause CEL.
I have tried using a CAN OBD2 scanner, but I am not seeing any codes. Selecting "Clear codes" seems to clear the cel for a while, but it will eventually come back.
I called MW about this, they just suggested to re-check the sensor connections.
The most direct solution would be to tune out any intake sensor related codes, I will contact Weistec about this and update this post.
I know someone on social media who has a PFL model with these exact intakes and have never experienced any cel, so maybe it has something to do with FL models.
Any insight would be appreciated.
Conclusion
Overall, I enjoy these intakes. They make a cool sound and seem to improve performance based on my experience. My only regret is the CEL, which I currently don't know how to fix.
If I am able to fix the CEL, I see no problem in highly recommending these intakes for those interested.
Great writeup and review! Keep us posted on the CEL issue... maybe check the sensor extension cables for a connection issue (not connecting properly to stock wiring or sensor; broken / loose wiring)?
Intake Air Temperatures
Unfortunately, I do not have any data for IATs on stock vs MW intakes. (I don't really know how you would measure this, maybe data logging?)
Therefore, I cannot make any conclusion on if these intakes negatively affect performance due to higher IATs, or if these intakes even cause higher IATs at all.
There is already lots of discussions and theories about how bad these intakes are for IATs. From my perspective, if there is no data, logging, or performance testing, no decisive conclusion can be made.
Either way, if temps are a concern, I would upgrade 3 piece radiators, trans split cooling, and perhaps run water methanol injection.
If anyone has data on this, it would be good to add to this thread.
Excellent review and write up!
Quick Simple non-technical test... After some time driving, is the intake hot or cold to the touch?
I have had these intakes now pretty much since they came out. Average drop on 60-130 has typically been around the .7-.8 range without flashing a new tune. Currently at 5.39 60-130 so they work pretty well. Your P700/800 may not be a result of the sensor. If the shop did not get your prongs in the coupler they can come out which causes the same code so check there as well.
I have had these intakes now pretty much since they came out. Average drop on 60-130 has typically been around the .7-.8 range without flashing a new tune. Currently at 5.39 60-130 so they work pretty well. Your P700/800 may not be a result of the sensor. If the shop did not get your prongs in the coupler they can come out which causes the same code so check there as well.
I just checked the coupler connections, and I noticed this. The scanner is telling me that there are no codes, but this could be the issue. I will get both couplers reglued and see if the CEL comes back.
Pricing and Sizing
There are two different sizing options, OEM size and 82mm size, both costing 620 and 685 USD respectively. I opted for the 82mm size intakes.
The OEM size reuses the stock rubber coupler that attaches the intake to the turbo, while the 82mm has a larger outlet.
I asked Modalworks about this, they say that they recommend the 82mm size for those that have upgraded turbos, or plan to do so. Both sizes will work on stock turbos.
Installation
If you opt for the OEM size intake, installation will be relatively easy. However, if you opt for the 82mm, installation will be a PITA.
This is because there is a hard glue (see photo below) that attaches the stock couplers to the circulation ports. I was not able to remove these myself, so I went to my local shop (2 hours labor).
If you don't plan on upgrading turbos, I suggest sticking with OEM size if you want easy installation.
Here is what they look like when installed. Notice that there ports on each intake for the intake sensors.
Subjective Enjoyment
Intake make cool whoosh sound, big like
Intake Air Temperatures
Unfortunately, I do not have any data for IATs on stock vs MW intakes. (I don't really know how you would measure this, maybe data logging?)
Therefore, I cannot make any conclusion on if these intakes negatively affect performance due to higher IATs, or if these intakes even cause higher IATs at all.
There is already lots of discussions and theories about how bad these intakes are for IATs. From my perspective, if there is no data, logging, or performance testing, no decisive conclusion can be made.
Either way, if temps are a concern, I would upgrade 3 piece radiators, trans split cooling, and perhaps run water methanol injection.
If anyone has data on this, it would be good to add to this thread.
Performance
I do not have any dyno runs, the only metric I have to test performance is dragy 60-100mph runs.
I would have liked to do 60-130mph, but I would rather not.
Here are the best runs I could do on stock and MW intakes respectively.
Mod list: Weistec ECU + CPC, FI catless DP, MW intakes
Stock Intakes
MW Intakes
I made these runs on the same road. There is an appreciable difference in DA in favor of the MW intakes, but I am not sure how much of a difference that would make.
It is important to note that these runs are on stock turbos. For upgraded turbos, it is reasonable to assume that the gap between these intakes will widen.
Apart from my own basic testing, MW claims that the fastest 60-130 record uses these very intakes. Mtech also claims to have a 1/4 mile WR C63 that is also powered by MW intakes.
Check Engine Light
For my car (2021), these intakes cause CEL.
I have tried using a CAN OBD2 scanner, but I am not seeing any codes. Selecting "Clear codes" seems to clear the cel for a while, but it will eventually come back.
I called MW about this, they just suggested to re-check the sensor connections.
The most direct solution would be to tune out any intake sensor related codes, I will contact Weistec about this and update this post.
I know someone on social media who has a PFL model with these exact intakes and have never experienced any cel, so maybe it has something to do with FL models.
Any insight would be appreciated.
Conclusion
Overall, I enjoy these intakes. They make a cool sound and seem to improve performance based on my experience. My only regret is the CEL, which I currently don't know how to fix.
If I am able to fix the CEL, I see no problem in highly recommending these intakes for those interested.
Cheers!
Did you cut the felt liner thats on the hood for more clearance?
thank for your response. You know the PCV tubes that were clamped to the old air intake. It’s fine if they’re just left there without being connected to anything else?
thank for your response. You know the PCV tubes that were clamped to the old air intake. It’s fine if they’re just left there without being connected to anything else?
Well, if you're swapping the OEM couplers for the larger ones, they should be properly installed. There are two or three ports per intake, depending on model year, that should all be reconnected to the coupler.
Well, if you're swapping the OEM couplers for the larger ones, they should be properly installed. There are two or three ports per intake, depending on model year, that should all be reconnected to the coupler.
I’m talking about these hoses that connected to the old air box can they be left there just like that?
I’m talking about these hoses that connected to the old air box can they be left there just like that?
Oh those. Those are meant to recirculate air back to the airboxes. Since the airboxes are gone, you can just remove both hoses.
This will cause a "blow off" sound when going off-throttle, but there is nothing to be concerned about. You're just venting the air to the "atmosphere" instead of the airbox.
Well, if you're swapping the OEM couplers for the larger ones, they should be properly installed. There are two or three ports per intake, depending on model year, that should all be reconnected to the coupler.
Originally Posted by vodand12
Oh those. Those are meant to recirculate air back to the airboxes. Since the airboxes are gone, you can just remove both hoses.
This will cause a "blow off" sound when going off-throttle, but there is nothing to be concerned about. You're just venting the air to the "atmosphere" instead of the airbox.
thank you so much for your help I appreciate it a lot. Did you end up buying the blowoff adapters or just left it like that?
will be looking forward to that. Is it normal for the car to swoosh while accelerating? thank you
I'm assuming by "swoosh" you mean the blow off sound. It's the sound of air escaping from the valves to the atmosphere. This mostly happens when letting off the throttle after turbo spool.
The valves can also purge air during light acceleration in certain gears/speeds. I noticed the valves will constantly purge air in comfort mode, during low speed, light acceleration.
01-30-2024, 02:59 AM
