2019 C63S Battery

Yesterday, I got a new warning relating to the "12V Battery", so not the Starter Battery. I'm fairly sure I haven't seen this message before. It's currently on charge. I'm now thinking it is time to replace the battery, although it's due a major service next month, but I know they will charge a fortune for what is a fairly simple task that I've done on other cars before, the most recent being my Jaguar XKR.
What I'm not sure about is how many batteries this car has, given that it refers to Starter Battery and 12V battery.
Googling suggests there is one 12V battery under the bonnet (hood for those in the US) on the passenger side, and this is where I connect the charger's positive connector. There also seems to be an auxiliary device fitted in the footwell and rather tricky to get to, but I don't believe this is a battery, just an electronic device.
I therefore have a number of questions that I really hope you can help me with:
1. Why the different warning messages referring to Starter Battery and 12V battery? Clearly, recharging the "main" battery resolves the "Starter Battery" warnings, so why the distinction?
2. Which replacement battery would you recommend for a 2019 C63S?
3. Is it really necessary for codes to be reset after replacing the battery? Googling indicates many people who have changed batteries without having codes reset and without any issues? I did wonder if I could ask for the codes to be reset during the service next month, but they may refuse to do this on the grounds they didn't provider or install the replacement battery.
Thanks in advance.




As for programing the new battery some say it's a myth other say it's necessary to make sure the computer knows it's a new battery and charges it accordingly. There are several folks on here who have replaced the battery themselves w/o any coding and haven't had any issues. It's up to you. I could have replaced the battery myself if I wanted to, but dealership had a special and for $500 I just had them do it.
Last edited by superswiss; Mar 31, 2026 at 01:13 PM.

I assume if the dealer installed your replacement battery they would have used an OEM battery?
I'm going to call my Merc dealer tomorrow to book a service and will discuss the cost of installing a new battery and auxiliary capacitor.
I may also speak to the parts department and compare prices to those I've seen online.





@superswiss
500$ from MB ?
OEM Battery is as i know from Varta .
My battery is also on End.
For winter i need a new.




Yesterday, I got a new warning relating to the "12V Battery", so not the Starter Battery. I'm fairly sure I haven't seen this message before. It's currently on charge. I'm now thinking it is time to replace the battery, although it's due a major service next month, but I know they will charge a fortune for what is a fairly simple task that I've done on other cars before, the most recent being my Jaguar XKR.
What I'm not sure about is how many batteries this car has, given that it refers to Starter Battery and 12V battery.
Googling suggests there is one 12V battery under the bonnet (hood for those in the US) on the passenger side, and this is where I connect the charger's positive connector. There also seems to be an auxiliary device fitted in the footwell and rather tricky to get to, but I don't believe this is a battery, just an electronic device.
I therefore have a number of questions that I really hope you can help me with:
1. Why the different warning messages referring to Starter Battery and 12V battery? Clearly, recharging the "main" battery resolves the "Starter Battery" warnings, so why the distinction?
2. Which replacement battery would you recommend for a 2019 C63S?
3. Is it really necessary for codes to be reset after replacing the battery? Googling indicates many people who have changed batteries without having codes reset and without any issues? I did wonder if I could ask for the codes to be reset during the service next month, but they may refuse to do this on the grounds they didn't provider or install the replacement battery.
Thanks in advance.
Then an in dash warning appeared see photo below (lower picture) I called the dealership and said to bring it in instead of driving for extended period to re charge it.
So I drove over and the battery was not OK. They replaced it while I waited.. It was still under warranty. See invoice below on what was done.
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Because I only drive my MB about once a week, I leave it on a Noco Genius 5 100% of the time it's parked in my garage. I always use the charging posts in the engine compartment and never use the battery terminals themselves for charging (more on this below).
I have no idea if this applies at all to Mercedes vehicles, but I do have experience with battery maintenance and charging with newer Ford vehicles. The newer Ford cars all have a BMS system (Battery Management System) that uses a small device mounted on top of the negative battery terminal to monitor the voltage, and the rate of discharge and rate of charge. There is also a setting (coding) in newer Ford vehicles for the SOC (State of Charge) and it is factory set at only 80%, supposedly for battery longevity. So these systems tell the vehicle to charge the battery only to 80% while driving (no matter the time-length of the drive). The charge is computer controlled by regulating the output from the alternator and it is well documented that it is a tapered / sloped down charge rate as it approaches the SOC setting. So if your battery was at 70% for example, and you only drove 10-15 minutes it might have only charged to 75% because the charging rate is slowed down as you approach the SOC setting of 80%. This is problematic for people who frequently take short drives because the battery never gets charged back up and can sit in the 60% capacity area quite a bit due to the drain of all the systems that remain powered even while the car is off (remote start monitoring, over the air updates, proximity monitoring for touch door lock systems, etc.). The point is that when you just slap a new battery in and you don't reset the BMS the vehicle uses the old data from the rate of discharge and rate of charge and SOC to regulate the alternator, therefore you may never get full use of your brand new battery's capacity because the vehicle thinks it's still the old one. The process for Ford is to ensure the new battery is charged to 100% and then reset the BMS system. There is either a manual process that can be performed, or a computerized process that can be performed to reset the BMS. Either one works. The fix for a lot of Ford owners is to use ForScan software to change the SOC setting to 90 or 95% so the alternator charges the battery more aggressively, especially on short trips.
Another matter is that on newer Ford vehicles you must charge the battery by connecting the charger to the positive battery terminal, and the negative side ONLY to chassis ground point, or the top of the BMS sensor itself. If you connect a charger to the negative battery terminal the charge input bypasses the BMS sensor (that sits atop the negative terminal) and throws off the learned tables the computer had about SOC and charge rates. This is why I mentioned above about always using the charging / jump starting posts in the engine compartment for the Mercedes, so that any charging from my Noco Genius 5 goes through whatever systems are on the Mercedes for battery monitoring / management.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by Roysup; Apr 1, 2026 at 10:49 AM.
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Thanks for the info regarding BMS. This is similar to what I have Googled elsewhere, so good to know.
While I understand it is preferable to have the BMS reset whenever a new battery is installed, it does make me wonder if the system can "learn" from the battery. What I mean by this is that when the car is new and it has a new battery, the battery will be much more efficient, but over time as the battery ages, it will start to "fail" and I would assume during this decline, the BMS will monitor it, potentially charging an older battery more than it would a new battery. So, if the BMS system can "monitor" the battery and adjust the charging process to accommodate the age of the battery, why doesn't this happen the other way around? If a new battery replaces an old battery, initially the BMS doesn't know it is new (assuming it hasn't been registered). So, does BMS "learn" about the new battery over time and adjust the way it is charged, or does it simply continue to treat it as an old battery and continue to potentially over charge it?
I've not come across anyone saying their battery has been ruined as a result of not registering it as new.
I can see a large number of OBD2 scanners for sale on Amazon UK and other places. Not sure if they will allow a battery to be re-registered and I've never owned or used one of these scanners, but may look into them out of curiosity.
Although my battery spent a full day on a slow charge yesterday, the Mercedes app is showing it as "Partially charged", which is better than a warning that it needs charging, but not ideal and does suggest it is passed its best.




Varta DYNAMIC AGM 580901080 / 80Ah
Last edited by C63s_Jack; Apr 1, 2026 at 11:49 AM.


You might check out iCarSoft products. The "CR Elite" one I linked says under "8 Hot Service Functions" that one of them is: "Battery Management Service".
The MB specific iCarSoft product HERE didn't specifically list a "Battery Management Service", only a "Battery Test", so if you get that one I would inquire with them if you can "register a new battery" with that device like Xentry would.... "Access the Signal Acquisition Module (SAM) using the diagnostic tool, navigate to "actuation tests," and select "confirmation battery change" to reset the charge count to zero."
Thanks for the info regarding BMS. This is similar to what I have Googled elsewhere, so good to know.
While I understand it is preferable to have the BMS reset whenever a new battery is installed, it does make me wonder if the system can "learn" from the battery. What I mean by this is that when the car is new and it has a new battery, the battery will be much more efficient, but over time as the battery ages, it will start to "fail" and I would assume during this decline, the BMS will monitor it, potentially charging an older battery more than it would a new battery. So, if the BMS system can "monitor" the battery and adjust the charging process to accommodate the age of the battery, why doesn't this happen the other way around? If a new battery replaces an old battery, initially the BMS doesn't know it is new (assuming it hasn't been registered). So, does BMS "learn" about the new battery over time and adjust the way it is charged, or does it simply continue to treat it as an old battery and continue to potentially over charge it?
I've not come across anyone saying their battery has been ruined as a result of not registering it as new.
I can see a large number of OBD2 scanners for sale on Amazon UK and other places. Not sure if they will allow a battery to be re-registered and I've never owned or used one of these scanners, but may look into them out of curiosity.
Although my battery spent a full day on a slow charge yesterday, the Mercedes app is showing it as "Partially charged", which is better than a warning that it needs charging, but not ideal and does suggest it is passed its best.
Although my battery spent a full day on a slow charge yesterday, the Mercedes app is showing it as "Partially charged", which is better than a warning that it needs charging, but not ideal and does suggest it is passed its best.
At the end of my battery life once while was car was at the dealership and the doors or something else were left open. My me mercedes showed the battery was in Critical mode. The dealership said no problem the car just needed to be run for a while. Soon after the car was at a car spa for 3 hours or so with doors opened. Soon after, the battery then showed Critical mode. Then the on dash revealed Check 12 v battery. Check Owners manual. As previous stated when to dealership and battery was changed.
Thanks for the info regarding BMS. This is similar to what I have Googled elsewhere, so good to know.
While I understand it is preferable to have the BMS reset whenever a new battery is installed, it does make me wonder if the system can "learn" from the battery. What I mean by this is that when the car is new and it has a new battery, the battery will be much more efficient, but over time as the battery ages, it will start to "fail" and I would assume during this decline, the BMS will monitor it, potentially charging an older battery more than it would a new battery. So, if the BMS system can "monitor" the battery and adjust the charging process to accommodate the age of the battery, why doesn't this happen the other way around? If a new battery replaces an old battery, initially the BMS doesn't know it is new (assuming it hasn't been registered). So, does BMS "learn" about the new battery over time and adjust the way it is charged, or does it simply continue to treat it as an old battery and continue to potentially over charge it?
I've not come across anyone saying their battery has been ruined as a result of not registering it as new.
I can see a large number of OBD2 scanners for sale on Amazon UK and other places. Not sure if they will allow a battery to be re-registered and I've never owned or used one of these scanners, but may look into them out of curiosity.
Although my battery spent a full day on a slow charge yesterday, the Mercedes app is showing it as "Partially charged", which is better than a warning that it needs charging, but not ideal and does suggest it is passed its best.
Although my battery spent a full day on a slow charge yesterday, the Mercedes app is showing it as "Partially charged", which is better than a warning that it needs charging, but not ideal and does suggest it is passed its best.
At the end of my battery life once while was car was at the dealership and the doors or something else were left open. My me mercedes showed the battery was in Critical mode. The dealership said no problem the car just needed to be run for a while. Soon after the car was at a car spa for 3 hours or so with doors opened. Soon after, the battery then showed Critical mode. Then the on dash revealed Check 12 v battery. Check Owners manual. As previous stated when to dealership and battery was changed.


I'd recommend a 5 amp or 10 amp "slow charger" like the Noco Genius 5 or the Genius 10. Either of those should get the job done in 24 hours or less, plus they have some reconditioning features and cycles.
I'd recommend a 5 amp or 10 amp "slow charger" like the Noco Genius 5 or the Genius 10. Either of those should get the job done in 24 hours or less, plus they have some reconditioning features and cycles.





I'd recommend a 5 amp or 10 amp "slow charger" like the Noco Genius 5 or the Genius 10. Either of those should get the job done in 24 hours or less, plus they have some reconditioning features and cycles.



