mbgrl1220

Hello all. I am new to this forum and am looking for advice concerning my cl's abc system. Three months ago I had all of the hoses and pump replaced. Since then everything has been fine. Now, I am receiving the warning light again. I took it to the dealership today, and they think it has something to do with the rear valve block. I know this part is pretty expensive. My car is still under it's extended warranty for another 3,000 miles. The dealership talked to the insurance company and say it is covered but still want one of their agents to go to the dealership to look at the car. Do any of you know how many hours of labor go into fixing a valve block? I have a feeling the warranty company may cover the part, but not want to cover the labor. They tried doing that to me with the ABC hoses and pump. That involved twelve hours of labor.

I have also heard some people mention having the system flushed first before replacing a valve block. Thank you for any help you can provide.

-Christina

BlownV8

Read the terms of your warranty. If it says they pay labor, hold them to their warranty. Get it fixed bow while you still have a warranty. Otherwise, it will be a 100% out of pocket expense.

~CL500~

Hi Christina and welcome to the forum. What other symptoms are you experiencing other than the ABC light being lit?

The most common symptom that occur with a faulty valve block are one sided sagging suspension after the vehicle has been off for a while, but then goes back to normal when the vehicle is started. The less common symptom is a one sided sagging suspension when the vehicle is running.

Here's the solutions according to the symptoms:
Sagging suspension/engine on = Flush ABC fluid
Sagging suspension/engine off = Replace front or rear valve block
Sagging suspension/engine off AND on = Replace front or rear valve block

Labor (from WIS):
Flush ABC = 2.2hours
Install front valve block = 2.2hours
Install rear valve block = 0.9hours

The part alone is in excess of $1000, so no matter the case, I highly recommend you get this done under warranty. My rough guesstimate on TOTAL labor hours is 4-6 based on the procedure in WIS. Good luck

BenzBoy12

Were the hoses and pump replaced under this extended warranty, and if so, did the labor get covered during this procedure? Even if you have to pay labor, like the others said, get it replaced right now while you can at least get the part covered. CLs are some of the best cars in the world, but they are high maintenance sometimes, as I'm sure you know, haha. What year is your car? Oh, and btw, welcome to MBWorld! Make sure to visit the OT once in a while too.

mbgrl500

Sorry for the delayed response. My either is not sagging to the left or right right now, but I do see decreased space between my tire and fender. The stealership says I have to replace the rear valve block which will cost me 1200-1500. I just don't know how the techs did not see this repair coming two months ago when they replaced my hoses and pump.

Bo CL500

if you dont replace the valve, will it cause more damage to the pump? If not then whats the purpose of replacing?

Ifari

Have an Independant garage you trust inspect the seal on the valve block and maybe it is all that will need replacing at a much reduced cost.

Also, double check the fluid level of the ABC. It should be at the upper level detent when the car is off.

mbgrl500

That is a very good idea Ifari. I had heard in another forum about the seals going bad on the valve block. It is a very inexpensive repair compared to a valve block. I am taking the car in today, so I will mention that. I know they will say that is not the problem. If it is the valve, I know I have to pay for it no matter what. Having the valve messed up is giving me the same result as when my pump and hoses went bad. It's just not as fast at making the car drop. All CL owners seriously should start some sort of class action suit to have the CL's abc system reassessed. The fact that the earlier model CL's do not have as many problems as the 05-06 model really concerns me. Mercedes should have extended the warranties on this system. Regardless of all of these sudden problems, I will buy another CL after I get rid of this one. There is no other car I would rather drive in the Mercedes lineup (except for the SLR).

Ifari

SLR you say.....wow....my kind of woman!

That's because there is no substitute for good taste mbgrl500!

Also make certain to check the ABC fluid level yourself! I had the recall work done on my car and watched the tech add fluid and say the car was ready. He gave me the bottle of fluid left over (3/4 full) and said I may need it sometime. Cool, I thought.

A couple of weeks later the car sagged a bit and I would have to push the ABC button to get lift after start-up. I decided to check the fluid level myself and found it low. I ended up adding almost the 3/4 ltr. of fluid I got at the dealer. It was a relatively meticulous and time consuming process to get the level right, but was well worth doing. If you want it done right...

The car profile has not dropped since and the ride is now oh so right!

Good luck!

BullOnWallSt

I agree with this. We should have something done about the ABC system on the car. I have had problems with my ABC... Turn the car on ABC comes on turn it right off and back on... then....

Then a miracle happens and the ABC light is off and the car drives fine... Have been doing this for years now....lol The dealer tells me it's the ABC front axle control unit and would replace, but the last 3 times after the ABC problem I was in for problems that where all misdiagnosed.... So for me to trust the dealer is hard.

Has anyone else had a problem that sounds like this?


Now I am having a steering problem as well... Not sure if it is the pump or the rack, but need to figure out. I keep getting mixed calls so haven't replaced that yet just driving around with a crazy sound when steering.

Sucks since I only have 80k for miles on this car.

AMGTestDriverNJ

Whoa, don't count us 03-04 w215's out! I've had plenty of ABC problems including the one you are currently dealing with. I did have the valve block sensors replaced and it fixed my problem. The hoses were done as per the TSB on these parts. The valve block sensor and labor were paid for by extended warranty. My car after a 2-5 minute idle would begin to try to re-level itself incorrectly and as a result would drop to one side or the other. Needless to say this was very annoying and always made me feel like the car was off balance. In any event, if you have 3000 miles left on your factory? warranty then you should be covered for parts and labor. If you have an aftermarket warranty then obviously you have to see what they do and do not cover. In any event, good luck and congrats on your fantastic taste

mbgrl500

Regarding the previous post about steering issues, you should definitely have that looked at. I had some steering issues that involved one of the most annoying sounds you have ever heard in your life. It would happen every time I made a turn when backing up or during a sharp, slow turn. It ended up being the ball joints. They were covered under warranty, but it is not a very expensive repair.

gonch

we honeslty sould do something to the ****in dealer. every person i no that has a CL 500 is getting owned by the dealer and i only have 80 k on my car and the warranty is done... i have to pay 8000 dollars to fix this stoopid *** ABC and my car is makin wierd humming noises... anyone got any ideas what we can do to the dealer.

Ifari

The 'humming' noise you describe is from the Pulsation Damper/Accumulator being damaged.

It's a <$200 part and 1 hr. labour. Good luck.

Oh yea, when at the dealer ask to buy a MB STAR SERVICE Service Manual Library DVD for your car. It's $100 and worth much more. The DVD contains ALL diagnostics, repair procedures, diagrams, part locations and functions, TCB and DTBs, which is where I found out the solution to your problem.
The rest is up to you.

gonch

thnks a lot bro

Ifari

Your welcome bro.

matias

Hey guys, I too have problems with the ABC, my CL500 when standing about 4-5 days down the front and I believe more in the driver's side, no loss of hydraulic fluid to start the car and jump me the red warning, I give the button to raise and notice red disappears and it seems that the car is fine, I asked at the Mercedes-Madrid and I say it's a valve that is housed within the pump pressure and this has to change the pump which I did not think it necessary, may be a return valve that works poorly for this reason lose hold and pressure, if I use the car every day does not go down but now I go on vacation to Europe and I'm a little afraid of if I get serious problems that you advise me?
Thanks for your help, "Greetings from Madrid.

Ifari

It is somewhat normal if the car is not driven for close to a week or more for the suspension to drop. It is part of the composition of the valve block, being metal that this occurs. No repairs are needed.
Enjoy your vacation!

matias

OK, thank you for your help,is that today has left another fails, it seems that has been one of the catalysts, sometimes sounds as if he had ***** in the exhaust pipe,i passed by the concessionaire and talk to the head of workshop and told me that for the time i go but if the ball grows plays change, here costs about 1800€, to know you, you can repair the catalyst, i have wins out already and i approve motorways in Germany to all gaz. Greetings.

Ifari

It sounds like a catalytic converter issue with the "***** in exhaust" sound. The dealer is correct, however you can possibly have the cat removed and the broken pieces can be 'shaken' or gouged out by a muffler shop. The 'cat' will be hollow afterwards, but the noise will go away and there will be no appreciable damage done, unless you need the 'cat' working properly for an emissions test.

Remember also to keep the ABC fluid topped up always to avoid problems with the ABC pump.

bill in pleasan

I bought a 2002 CL500 about 3 months ago with 77,000 miles on it. About a month ago I heard and felt a very faint grinding noise - like a bearing going out. Finally, a got the ABC warning light, but it only came on once. The grinding noise was noticeable at about 800 to 1200 rpm. I took it to an good MB independent, and they replaced the ABC pump and the pulsation damper and flushed the ABC fluid. I've only driven the car about 500 miles since then and everything is great again. The cost was approximately $2,400 in California.
This week I had the spark plug wires replaced and the automatic tranmission shift module replaced because it was getting more difficult to move the gear shift out of the Park position. This was only a little over $1,200 total for both issues. I am told that the W215 is an expensive vehicle to maintain. I believe it. A different indepent garage where I used to take my BMW's told me to steer clear of the MB's with ABC because of the expense. But after driving the CL500, it was an awesome ride. After many other BMW's, Corvette's, etc, there is nothing that compares to my CL500.
Now all I need to do is replace the drivers side sun visor which no longer stays in the up position and the hinged mirror door is broken.

Bill Dye in California

mickblaine

the ABC system is driving me crazy, i shulda (culda/woulda i know) looked here first,

but ive replaced the same front strut twice, the accumulator, pump, reservior, block valve, and control module, and i still have the same problem

some of the above work was done by the dealer at no cost for "good faith"

just saw the recall for the sensors and the high pressure hose, i assume the its the hose breaking apart internally that damaged the blockk valve seats, and other components

aside from these problems, i would still buy another, there is no other ride like the SL-55 AMG

Ifari

What specific problem do you have?

mickblaine

the very first time, the ABC light came on the dealer said the front strut was bad/leaking and replaced it

a few weeks later i had a puddle of fluid under my car, and it was towed back to the dealer, who said the strut they replaced was bad and replaced it again with a another strut

that lasted about 2 months, and the car started dropping while off and while idling

so then they went on to replace the accumulator, the reservior, the control module

but they never did any of the recall repairs, they claimed they even spoke to MB in germany for advice, and got nothing excpet to stsrt replacing all components under the problem was solved

a lot of the repairs were done in good faith, at no cost to me, but i did spend about $3K initially

i assume that the hoses are continuing to fragment particles into the system, so no matter how many times you flush the system, or replace the block valves eventually new broken particles will cause the seats of the valve not to sit properly or even damage them

MichaelGriffith

I feel like I'm getting screwed over. Is there a way to change this abc to a normal system that's not going to cost me and arm and a leg and both of my feet.