I went to the dealer because my left rear will drop after setting for about 5 hours. The dealer said I need to flush the ABC and new filters at a cost of $760. Is that the going cost for this?

I had them do the work and the problem continues. Seems to drop if the car is locked and when I unlock the door I can hear a noise and the rear slowly drops down. When I start the car if lifts back up and I get the ABC visit workshop warning. If it is the rear value how much should they be charging in labor to replace? Can any repair shop do this work? Is it safe to continue to drive the car or should I get it replace now.

 

Filter $30-$50, ABC $20/qt. Some dealers want to do 5 quarts, some do 10 just to make sure. Then there's labor. You do the math.

 

Sounds a bit much for you in the US. I paid $278 for 3 litres of oil and $78 for new filter plus $100 labour here in Aus. for a partial flush. I had the front left dropping after a few hours. The flush filter and rodeo are the first step as per the Star Bulletin to correct the problem. If the problem persists next step is to replace the valve block which is what was done for me. Now that is the cost that hurts, valve block cost about $AUS 4,500.00 plus labour plus new filter plus oil. My work was covered by warranty so there was no financial pain for me apart from the initial flush as the first step in the diagnosis. The new valve block is an improved design so there should be no future problems. Only problem is that you end up having a new design in one corner and the old design in the other corners that will require replacement at some point.

Benz should have stuck with good old fashioned springs, shocks and sway bars. The ABC problems are the only black mark against (in my biased view) one of the best models they have produced to date.

 

I HAVE A 2006 CL500 WITH 24,000 MILES THAT I BOUGHT BACK IN MARCH OF 2009. HAVE NOT HAD ANY PROBLEMS YET BUT FROM WHAT I UNDERSTAND ITS ONLY A MATTER OF TIME BEFORE THE ABC SUSPENSION STARTS HAVING PROBLEMS. IS THEIR A APPROXIMATE MILLAGE OR AMOUNT OF YEARS BEFORE THIS HAPPENS?

 

no need to yell about it. I've heard it happens at 24,001 mile, so you better watch out. Mine is a 2004 with 91k miles on it, and one corner drops after maybe 3 days or so, but I rarely don't drive it for 3 days straight. I don't think there is actually a set life to these things----they can go on people early under warranty, or they can go with 100k on the clock. Mine's been holding up pretty well.

 

The car has never had ABC problems?

 

Who mine? Well I bought it at 55K miles about 3 years ago. I suppose it is possible it had problems before I bought it but they don't show up in MB records. Again, it does drop one corner if it sits a long time. Rises right back up though, and it has been that way for about a year.

 

MB says that ABC drop is "normal" if the car sits for more than a week, I believe.

But if it drops sooner...? Yes, most likely a bad valve block. I'm sporting the new valve block designs and even then, it drops after about 2 weeks of it being parked. But frankly, I wouldn't have such a heavy car on conventional struts and shocks. I love ABC, problems or no.

 

03 CL 500 69,xxx miles. Was told to get the pump flush and filter replacement done at 70k. Was quoted 1000 for service. I haven't had any problems yet, but during the winter months when she is in the garage, she will start to settle after about a month. I've heard that you can really screw up the car if you don't do the fluid flush correctly. I'm thinking I received a really high quote.

 

I has been reported by MB experts that you should raise the car to the highest when you park it for the day, this should somehow be better for the system and should prolong its life.

David

 

2002 CL500.. I just spun 103,000 and ABC pump outer housing had a small crack in it ... very rare. The seals didn't fail. Pump cost me $420 to be rebuild. $260 for fluid , $30 for the PS filter and $60 for the suspension filter. Flush took no more than 30 min to complete.

 

Hi there,

My 2004 cl 55 AMG is causing me some trouble and I think if I flush and change the filter that will solve the problem? Can you tell me how it is done and what I actually have to do to flush my system?
It seems like it is a pretty basic thing, so just some quick guidelines would be great thanks.
I would REALLY appreciate your help!

 

The MAIN cause for the car to lower after a few days is the Valve/Distribution block. You have two, one for front, one for back. The valve holds the fluid in the 'shocks', as the valve degrades, they "leak" fluid back in to the tank and the car lowers. This is NOT a big problem and won't hurt the car UNLESS there is fluid leaking. Put newspaper under the car after driving and leave overnight to see. The two main causes for ABC Hell are:

1) Fluid leaks : The pump runs dry and burns out. If there IS a warning for low fluid, I've never hear of anyone mentioning it. Make sure your fluid stays within the "Baden / Un-Baden" (running / Not-running) marks on the dip stick.

2) Accumulator diaphragm rupture: There is a fluid tank with a diaphragm that helps keep the pressure in the system stable. Over time the synthetic membrane breaks down and can crack/malform. This can send particulate through the system that can collect in the pump and fry it. Symptoms for this include a high pitched whine and/or slight vibration on the drivers side.

Before I'd pay for a full system flush I would (and have) replaced the small filter in the tank (very easy), drive a few days remove it and inspect. If it is dirty or you can see particulate, I'd replace again ( they are less than $20 and take about 10 min to replace) and inspect again in a few days. If you are still getting particulate, I'd have the Accumulator checked and the system flushed.

 

I check my ABC fluid regularly. I was not aware there was a filter in the tank- care to explain how to change it?

 

It is attached to the Fill cap by a small spring-clip. It is the (usually) teal labelled screw cap next to the "longer" dip-stick (the upper one on the driver-side of the engine, the lower one is for the power steering).

Just be extremely careful not to get dirt or any particulate get in the tank...

 

I have read if you do a back flush and make sure the system is totally clean and then put in a new filter and fluid it might work but I had to replace both my front and rear block. They replaced them with the 2007-12 version, which is a totally different revision but fits the same and lasts longer from what I've been told. The system gets debre that passed through the filter and it can lodge in the valve that blocks the valve from blocking the fluid in the system. If that happens the fluid can escape back and the strut will lower. Mine, before I heard about the flush, dropped on the RH rear so I replaced the block and it was great. Then a week later the front right started to drop so I replaced the front one. Then the system was perfect for two years and then the light would come on for just a second, I took it to my mechanic and he filled up the system but said the one or both of the air cells were no good. He bounced the car on the front and it didn't move, then he went to the rear and the rear bounced. He said I needed an accumulator for the rear of the car. 160.00 for the part and 150.00 to put on and do the Rodeo. I said screw it. I just sold the car and bought another one ( I had already spent 15k on the car in 2 years, I had had enough and wasnt in love with the car). The blocks are a KNOWN issue and that is why the car will start to leak down at a corner. The blocks are about 1,200.00 each and will need to be replaced if the back flush doesn't work.

 

where did you get the pump rebuilt for $420???
thanks

 

I havent had to have my pump rebuilt but I bet you can go on Ebay and find one rebuilt or go on the net and find a rebuilder. I was told that actually the pump usually doesnt go out but the accumulator does. Have it tested before you do anything. The accumumlator is a screw on assembly easy on easy off

 

Well you were told wrong. The pump fails. It did for me and 90% of the forum members. On top of that, I would never buy a repaired pump or a used pump. If you do, you're on borrowed time.

R.K.

 

Yes, I know most people think their pump has gone out because they are being sold a bill of goods. I'm not saying they don't go out. The MASTER mechanic at MBZ told me that is what EVERY mechanic and service writer tries to sell,the entire pump. Most of the time its just the accumulator on the pump itself. If you turn your wheel all the way to the right (on the passenger side) you can actually see the accumulator without taking off the cover. When my mechanic went over my car before I decided not to spend the 8k for the extended warranty. I paid him to go over my entire car and he advised against it. He explained that USUALLY the pump doesn't fail just the accumulator or AKA the "CELL" they can do a test to see if the pump is working and if it is then you replace just the cell. He told me they get more money from for replacing the entire unit than replacing just the cell and that even he admits to over selling the pump as bad because it comes as an entire unit, rather than just replacing the "CELL" and they get paid a % of each job they do as well as does the service adviser, so spend your money as you see fit. I never try to tell anyone what to do, only advice and help. You in the end must find out what is wrong before you jump to any conclusions. If you have an HONEST mechanic who really knows these cars WELL. He will tell you if it's the pump or if its the Cell. Example the code on my Star diagnostic said LOW PUMP PRESSURE ( stored) he cleared all the codes and retested and it was an OLD code that wasn't rest when they replaced the leaking high pressure hose from back when the car was new. He was honest with me but pointed out that usually if the pressure is low its the Cell on the pump and not the pump itself. Hope that helps

 

In my case, fluid was leaking out the pulley area. Secondly, when we hooked up the star to the car, it was only making 1 bar of pressure. There is nothing servicable on the pump. When the pump goes, your car will not raise up. What you are refering to is when one side drops. That has nothing really to do with the pump itself.

R.K.

 

Side drops are due to block issues not accumulator issues. Bouncing is due to accumulators that the nitrogen has leaked out . The accumulator on the pump is full of nitrogen as well and once that has been depleted on the pump unit it will NOT pump the car up and WILL NOT HOLD pressure, thus the car drops to the ground. Yes, the cell/accumulator can be serviced separately. They work just like an old Lincoln ABS brake unit of the Mid-late 80's Mark VII and Contientals. The accumulator goes out and the ABS unit stops holding pressure, thus no brakes. Sometimes the pump goes out, yes but if the pump is pumping then it's more than likely your accumulator. The lack of pressure is due to the depletion of the nitrogen in the cell/accumulator on the pump unit itself. Your welcome to buy a new pump, just thought Id help save you a little or I should say alot of money. Oh your talking about your power steering pump which is also your system pump. Im talking the secondary pump. Forgive me. Yes those go out ALL THE TIME. Just buy a new one, Your seal burst that is why its not holding pressure. Forgive me I wasn't understanding until you mentioned that you had a leaking coming from the pulley area. Once I realized your fluid was coming out then I realized you were talking about the power steering/ suspension pump. OK I got it. Sorry, I was on the secondary pump under the car. My bad.

 

Some great info here. I didn't even know there was an ABC fluid dipstick. Where? And if it is a sealed system, how can it have a dipstick? Seems impossible.

BTW, I'm at 76,000 miles and has never dropped at all and operates perfectly (if I sit and idle for 10 minutes or so it will re-level, but I hear that is typical). It's a daily driver.

 

Its located behind the drivers side headlight. Looks like a power steering reservoir.

R.K.

 

Thanks R.K. I'll check it out.

Don't you think that "raise it when you park it" tip sounds a little old wives tale-ish? Sounds like you'd just end up wearing it out twice as fast. Sure it could leak some and still not hit the floor, but it probably takes some pumping to get it up every time. And I don't see how being at a different height on the strut would change the wear patterns significantly.