How to change radiator w215 w220 cl500 s500
#1
Super Member
Thread Starter
How to change radiator w215 w220 cl500 s500
I am posting this because when looking for instructions on a how to I found nothing but a text post with little detail. So here is a how to for everyone.
This all started with my upper radiator hose split. I thought the neck got damaged as well. Apparently not, I was dumba$$ that didn't notice I didn't push it in all the way. That's why it was still leaking, new hoses and radiator later, im just going to chalk this up as preventative maintenance, and I have a spare radiator laying around now......
This is on the CL but its the same as the S. I had both cars hood open next to each other as a how to put back.
1. Im assuming you have already removed the plastic air intakes that go into the air filter housing so lets continue from there.
2. See the bolt top right, remove it
See the bolt top left and adjacent from the first, remove it too.
remove lower covers to gain access under the engine compartment. Apparently both my cars are missing these areas so good luck, if nature and debree can remove these from day to day travels it shouldn't be hard to figure out. once under, there is I assume a transmission line bolted to the fan shroud, its a torx bit, hex bit, that star with a stigmatism bolt, remove two of them down below, don't remove the whole line, just unbolt it from the shroud. Unplug the electrical connector from the fan and the fan will now come right up.
this is where no research in the world would tell me anything, the two metal bolts going into the radiator are your transmission lines. As long as you don't start the engine you may lose about a tablespoon of fluid at the most when you undo them. Then lines are pressurized when you start the car so just don't start it and you wont have any problems. the other two lines are coolant, one goes to the expansion tank & the other, under the engine to where I don't care. just loosen it from the radiator.
Other side has the upper radiator hose. IM TELLING YOU NOW GETTING THE UPPER AND LOWER RADIATOR HOSE OFF IS HARD AS @$#%. And pushing them back on requires the strength of God, Allah, or whatever deity you care for. I did not have the strength to get them back on and had to get someone else to do it. My original problem was the upper radiator hose and I thought it was leaking at the neck after replacing. Nope, my dumbbutt just didn't push it on hard enough the first time. im weak, im pathetic, but Im intelligent and have a wallet and a big neighbor that will do anything I say for 30 dollars.
unscrew the bolt in the top right corner (drive side) above air inlet do not unbolt anything else
unbolt the bolt on the top left passenger side above air inlet. do not unbolt anything else.
I already unbolted it, and lifted the bracket. Remove both the bolt and the bracket from both sides.
This is revisiting a pass step, see the two metal lines down there, they are attached to the radiator. un attach them by unscrewing a single bolt on the side if you haven't already.
you should now be able to slide the rad back towards the engine. There are four of these little gold brackets at the top, 2 on each side. remove them and install them in the new radiator.
after some wiggling and pulling the radiator will come out. reverse the process. if it wasn't for the upper and lower radiator hose being so hard to put on I would have been done in less than a hour. I now have a extra used radiator :/
This all started with my upper radiator hose split. I thought the neck got damaged as well. Apparently not, I was dumba$$ that didn't notice I didn't push it in all the way. That's why it was still leaking, new hoses and radiator later, im just going to chalk this up as preventative maintenance, and I have a spare radiator laying around now......
This is on the CL but its the same as the S. I had both cars hood open next to each other as a how to put back.
1. Im assuming you have already removed the plastic air intakes that go into the air filter housing so lets continue from there.
2. See the bolt top right, remove it
See the bolt top left and adjacent from the first, remove it too.
remove lower covers to gain access under the engine compartment. Apparently both my cars are missing these areas so good luck, if nature and debree can remove these from day to day travels it shouldn't be hard to figure out. once under, there is I assume a transmission line bolted to the fan shroud, its a torx bit, hex bit, that star with a stigmatism bolt, remove two of them down below, don't remove the whole line, just unbolt it from the shroud. Unplug the electrical connector from the fan and the fan will now come right up.
this is where no research in the world would tell me anything, the two metal bolts going into the radiator are your transmission lines. As long as you don't start the engine you may lose about a tablespoon of fluid at the most when you undo them. Then lines are pressurized when you start the car so just don't start it and you wont have any problems. the other two lines are coolant, one goes to the expansion tank & the other, under the engine to where I don't care. just loosen it from the radiator.
Other side has the upper radiator hose. IM TELLING YOU NOW GETTING THE UPPER AND LOWER RADIATOR HOSE OFF IS HARD AS @$#%. And pushing them back on requires the strength of God, Allah, or whatever deity you care for. I did not have the strength to get them back on and had to get someone else to do it. My original problem was the upper radiator hose and I thought it was leaking at the neck after replacing. Nope, my dumbbutt just didn't push it on hard enough the first time. im weak, im pathetic, but Im intelligent and have a wallet and a big neighbor that will do anything I say for 30 dollars.
unscrew the bolt in the top right corner (drive side) above air inlet do not unbolt anything else
unbolt the bolt on the top left passenger side above air inlet. do not unbolt anything else.
I already unbolted it, and lifted the bracket. Remove both the bolt and the bracket from both sides.
This is revisiting a pass step, see the two metal lines down there, they are attached to the radiator. un attach them by unscrewing a single bolt on the side if you haven't already.
you should now be able to slide the rad back towards the engine. There are four of these little gold brackets at the top, 2 on each side. remove them and install them in the new radiator.
after some wiggling and pulling the radiator will come out. reverse the process. if it wasn't for the upper and lower radiator hose being so hard to put on I would have been done in less than a hour. I now have a extra used radiator :/
#2
great write up! thanks
#4
Super Member
Thread Starter
Nope, I ended up throwing it in the trash when I moved to dallas. Dude, its only 99 bucks on A-----N brand new. I will just get a brand new one.
#5
2001 cl600 w215 radiator
I have a leak at the neck of the radiator, thought it was the hose but not. I want to doit myself because why spend 700 bucks when I have the tools and am handy.
Anyway my question is does the front bumper have to be removed to replace the radiator?
Thanks, Jose
Anyway my question is does the front bumper have to be removed to replace the radiator?
Thanks, Jose