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Verry simple
1) remove the Y36/1 and 14 block
behind this block after removal you will see a connection block (B)
two inputs, next to each other, one output going to the front of the car into bumper
2) REMOVE block B. cut the plug of the metal tube going to the bumper
3) connect your hose there
3 REMOVE 52a - 52 (see A)
you'll see two hoses next to each other with aluminum foil, FORGET THOSE
4) Cut the plug of the black hose (that is the one coming from the pump)
connect the other end of your hose connected in B
all done ! perfect circuit, reservoir to pump to cooler to reservoir
NEW! YOU CAN DELETE THE ABC RADIATOR. has been tested for over a year now
If you use the dash light fix module, you can disconnect all electrical wires to ALL the ABC devices
Read my posts before you go into the wrong direction with DAS / Xentry Diagnostics
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Last edited by pmercury; Jan 15, 2020 at 09:20 AM.
IMPORTANT NOTE
there is a hose ABC DAMPER HOSE going nowhere in the front of the radiator
as I didn't find out yet where that is connected, you should leave it in place
you can remove everything else starting from the front wheels to the back and disconnect ANY sensor if you have a Dashlight Fix Module from stutmasters
I also recommend to disconnect the connector on the suction valve on the pump.
How did you remove the ABC radiator and link the pipe work
The pipe on top of the ABC reservoir is this totally removed when you remove ABC radiator
Did you use 10mm hydraulic hose?
my final work was that I cut everything off
just leave the reservoir and pump (1) and (2)
cut the line from pump to 52a
connect that to the top of reservoir.
cut off everything and trash it
Does that include the removal of the dead end pipe work from the pump (banjo fitting) and the pipe coming out the bottom of the resivour near the 2 in diagram
Does that include the removal of the dead end pipe work from the pump (banjo fitting) and the pipe coming out the bottom of the resivour near the 2 in diagram
just do this, then remove everything
I suggest you cut all pipes as removal is easier
remove all devices and radiator
and don't be afraid about pressure, there is no more. keep tank filled as usual, if not you'll kill your pump
Great information! Getting ready to install my YellowSpeed kit.
Question: what is the best way to get rid of warning messages and etc but NOT using the $400 Strutmasters box?
If doing the short-circuit piping suggested above - but not yet removing everything ABC - what components must be disconnected other than capping off the lines at the struts?
Great information! Getting ready to install my YellowSpeed kit.
Question: what is the best way to get rid of warning messages and etc but NOT using the $400 Strutmasters box?
If doing the short-circuit piping suggested above - but not yet removing everything ABC - what components must be disconnected other than capping off the lines at the struts?
strutmasters have a video online to explain what to do if you don't want to remove all components
for dash message elimination you need XENTRY DAS developer and code out ABC
I can find no such video on the Strutmasters site. They do show how to wire the stop module, but other than capping the lines, nothing about what to do if you don't remove all the ABC components.
Thanks.
I can find no such video on the Strutmasters site. They do show how to wire the stop module, but other than capping the lines, nothing about what to do if you don't remove all the ABC components.
Thanks.
If you pull the abc fuse you'll get the white error message instead of the red one
the white error message can be turned off by pressing on reset button on the right side of instrument cluster. You just have to press the reset button each time you get in the car
Thank you, but those are just the installation videos. Other than simply capping the lines, there's nothing regarding other ABC components, error messages etc.
Thank you, but those are just the installation videos. Other than simply capping the lines, there's nothing regarding other ABC components, error messages etc.
Appreciate the input though :-)
The error message will remain unless you buy the Strutmaster module.
As for removing all the abc bits etc just go at it with a few wrenches and sockets once you have created a loop back to the pump...or change the pump for one from an S500 with airmatic.
Last edited by renault12ts; Sep 12, 2017 at 11:03 AM.
The error message will remain unless you buy the Strutmaster module.
As for removing all the abc bits etc just go at it with a few wrenches and sockets once you have created a loop back to the pump...or change the pump for one from an S500 with airmatic.
Has anyone just bought the module alone? I thought Strutmasters would only sell it to those who have already purchased their kit
All kudos to PMercury - he showed us the way to loop the ABC pump output - at low pressure - and complete a YellowSpeed strut installation.
I have found an even easier method, one that doesn't even require one to get under the car :-) It assumes your tandem pump is still good (or passable), and uses existing plumbing so leaks aren't an issue. Plus it takes 15 minutes and costs about $4.
The downside: the ABC system is dead - but still there. This method wouldn't work for PMercury, as his objective was to remove the system completely. But for the rest of us, it is a simple and easy way to get the YellowSpeed conversion up and running with a minimum of trouble. We can wait to remove the other components at another time.
Note the overall system diagram: we are cutting into lines A and B and connecting them with 3/8" fuel line. We are removing Line C and plugging both ends. THAT's IT! You can plug the other (dead) cut lines if you like, but they have no pressure and mine didn't leak.
Pump output goes from pump to 52, then back to left wheel well.<br/>Line B is return line from rear, heading to cooler and reservoir again.
Here is what they look like in the left wheel well.
Here they are connected.
Find Line C in front of the left wheel well, near the headlight. Remove both ends of Line C. Cut off the line at the end of the metal part, and plug the line with a piece of 3/8 hose and some plugs and clamps. Re-install each end of (plugged) line C. You might be tempted to use a 3/8" flare plug: this will work for the no-pressure side, but will not seal the pressure end.
Location of Line C, right above the horn. This is the pressure side - the remaining line goes to the cooler and reservoir.
Line C
Cut off the fittings and plug each. Re-install.
Done!
You must remove Fuses F9 and F46, and remove the electrical connector at the ABC pump near the suction line on top. When you start, you are circulating through 52 and then right back to the cooler, filter, and reservoir. Pressure is low so leaks not a problem. By the way, borrow or buy a Sawzall and a metal-cutting blade: makes quick work of cutting the steel lines.
I can drive around like this forever on my YellowSpeeds, or contemplate the day I replace the tandem pump with a PS pump from a W220 and remove every last bit.
Last edited by smartadze; Sep 22, 2017 at 06:04 PM.
i ran mine in a similar setup for a long time. I forget what exactly caused my ABC pump to fail entirely but eventually it wouldn't stop leaking/smoking/spitting out fluid. I ended up using an s430 p/s pump on my cl500/55 setup
My ABC red warning has been on and off for a while. Abc doesn't work but car drives fine. Do I need to install new struts or can I just do this mod to relieve pressure on the system?
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GET RID OF ABC keeping the pump
