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My ABC red warning has been on and off for a while. Abc doesn't work but car drives fine. Do I need to install new struts or can I just do this mod to relieve pressure on the system?
If the ABC doesn't work then it's unlikely the car can "drive fine" :-) If it was really inoperable the car would sit on the bump stops at lowest position and is all but un-driveable. There are lots of ways the ABC system can fail (pump, lines, leaks, valves, struts +++) and just as many ways to trigger a RED or WHITE warning. Replacing struts may or may not fix the problem. The pump mods in this thread will not fix ANY ABC problem.
Unless, of course, you mean replacing the struts with a YellowSpeed-type coil-over conversion kit? THAT fixes everything :-)
So now the red warning has added car too low. And the CSR is too low on all wheels. Since I'm freaking out about the prospect of repairing the ABC. I'm hoping I can get this conversion kit and have a mechanic put it on.
Any help would be appreciated such as is this feasible for a mechanic to do? Is it similar to simply replacing the struts?
Any ideas where to buy the kit if it is feasible??
Hello. I've read up on several threads. But I am new to the forums and to ABC issues. My rear is sitting literally on the wheels and is not driveable. I am going the strutmaster route for about a grand with the module.
I am wondering if I can only do the rear to begin with and then drive the car to a lift to do the fronts. I also would like to know if capping off the rear lines will allow the rest of the system to come back to life? I wish I knew what problems to look for after doing the conversion. Ie leaking lines or pump issues. I've read threads where people take out the ABC system and sell it, but it looks like that involves changing out the tandem pump for a power steering only pump.
I have a 2002 cl with 89,000 miles. The read warning was on for a month. I just was hoping the system was locked in place rather than failing (I know, very wishful thinking).
Any guidance would be appreciated. If I could part out the ABC without additional issues, that would be awesome.
I think you will be much happier with the YellowSpeed coilover conversion. Unless they have changed since I researched them last year, the Strutmasters kit does not allow ride-height adjustments - which are a snap with the YellowSpeeds. I also found that the Strutmasters kit sets ride height too high to begin with. Perhaps this has changed since last year. In general, overall forum happiness with YellowSpeeds far exceeds that with Strutmasters.
YellowSpeed downsides: 1) there is no removing the White warning. You can buy the Strutmaster's module ($300+) to remove the warning or just cancel the White Warning at startup with the R button. No big deal. 2) TThe YellowSpeeds must ship from England. If in stock (check web site) it's just 6 or 7 days. If NOT in stock, expect 10 days to 3 weeks.
Even if the rear struts were the cause of the Red Warning, it is very unlikely that simply capping the rears will bring the rest of the system back to life. Without the proper circulation from the rears, the warnings will not turn off. But doing the rears is MUCH more work than doing the fronts. Front strut conversion does not require a lift.
Pump: Just connect the return lines as above and your tandem pump will last forever, running in low-pressure circulation mode. If your tandem pump is already failing, however, you can easily convert to a Power-Steering-only pump for less than$100.
Last edited by smartadze; Dec 14, 2017 at 01:29 PM.
ive also removed my abc radiator but guys, why aren't we just retrofitting this radiator to cool the power steering fluid instead??? seems all that cools down this system is the length of metal pipes, acts as sort of a heatsink but im not sure if i think this is the best route long term
i just bought an infrared thermometer so ill try to test the fluid and see if the radiator isn't better used for the steering system. just like transmission coolers, while maybe not "necessary" its well-known that transmission coolers can extend transmission life
I think you will be much happier with the YellowSpeed coilover conversion. Unless they have changed since I researched them last year, the Strutmasters kit does not allow ride-height adjustments - which are a snap with the YellowSpeeds. I also found that the Strutmasters kit sets ride height too high to begin with. Perhaps this has changed since last year. In general, overall forum happiness with YellowSpeeds far exceeds that with Strutmasters.
YellowSpeed downsides: 1) there is no removing the White warning. You can buy the Strutmaster's module ($300+) to remove the warning or just cancel the White Warning at startup with the R button. No big deal. 2) TThe YellowSpeeds must ship from England. If in stock (check web site) it's just 6 or 7 days. If NOT in stock, expect 10 days to 3 weeks.
Even if the rear struts were the cause of the Red Warning, it is very unlikely that simply capping the rears will bring the rest of the system back to life. Without the proper circulation from the rears, the warnings will not turn off. But doing the rears is MUCH more work than doing the fronts. Front strut conversion does not require a lift.
Pump: Just connect the return lines as above and your tandem pump will last forever, running in low-pressure circulation mode. If your tandem pump is already failing, however, you can easily convert to a Power-Steering-only pump for less than$100.
lift isnt needed for these conversions, for anybody who comes across this
just do this, then remove everything
I suggest you cut all pipes as removal is easier
remove all devices and radiator
and don't be afraid about pressure, there is no more. keep tank filled as usual, if not you'll kill your pump
What creates the pressure in the system? Will taking the out hose to top of reservoir bypass whatever creates pressure or will a fuse need to be pulled? Also what adapter if any did you need to use to attached to reservoir? Does this fluid still get hot and any downside to bypassing the radiator? Thanks!
Interesting that when someone says just keep the ABC system and replace all the lines and struts, if they have ever picked up a tool or just a checkbook ? The system works no better than the suspension on my wife's Lexus or my 02 Grand Cherokee. It's just typical Mercedes over engineered junk that sounds good in ads.!
Last edited by Al Schafer; Feb 10, 2020 at 05:23 PM.
Interesting that when someone says just keep the ABC system and replace all the lines and struts, if they have ever picked up a tool or just a checkbook ? The system works no better than the suspension on my wife's Lexus or my 02 Grand Cherokee. It's just typical Mercedes over engineered junk that sounds good in ads.!
Your wife's Lexus working as good as the ABC system, I might believe.....but the 02 Grand Cherokee's ????? Are you certain your ABC in your 2002 CL is working properly. - Yes, I have picked up a tool and also a checkbook, several times.
ABC was working just fine prior to blowing the rear accumulator line. Judged all three on a fairly tight uphill left hand turn approaching Road America each time I drove them at speeds a "bit higher" each time than recommended by the local authorities. All three stayed flat through the turn. BTW...the Cherokee is showing 170 K. ABC is engineering overkill at an unjustifiable price.
Hello, I have a 2005 Mercedes SL500 and would like to know if anyone knows where to get block off plugs/fittings for the hydraulic hose on the strut into the quick disconnect. Or if you could please tell me the size of the quick disconnect. Thank you!
[QUOTE=smartadze;7269850]All kudos to PMercury - he showed us the way to loop the ABC pump output - at low pressure - and complete a YellowSpeed strut installation.
I have found an even easier method, one that doesn't even require one to get under the car :-) It assumes your tandem pump is still good (or passable), and uses existing plumbing so leaks aren't an issue. Plus it takes 15 minutes and costs about $4.
The downside: the ABC system is dead - but still there. This method wouldn't work for PMercury, as his objective was to remove the system completely. But for the rest of us, it is a simple and easy way to get the YellowSpeed conversion up and running with a minimum of trouble. We can wait to remove the other components at another time.
Note the overall system diagram: we are cutting into lines A and B and connecting them with 3/8" fuel line. We are removing Line C and plugging both ends. THAT's IT! You can plug the other (dead) cut lines if you like, but they have no pressure and mine didn't leak.
Pump output goes from pump to 52, then back to left wheel well.<br/>Line B is return line from rear, heading to cooler and reservoir again.
Here is what they look like in the left wheel well.
Here they are connected.
Find Line C in front of the left wheel well, near the headlight. Remove both ends of Line C. Cut off the line at the end of the metal part, and plug the line with a piece of 3/8 hose and some plugs and clamps. Re-install each end of (plugged) line C. You might be tempted to use a 3/8" flare plug: this will work for the no-pressure side, but will not seal the pressure end.
Location of Line C, right above the horn. This is the pressure side - the remaining line goes to the cooler and reservoir.
Line C
Cut off the fittings and plug each. Re-install.
Done!
You must remove Fuses F9 and F46, and remove the electrical connector at the ABC pump near the suction line on top. When you start, you are circulating through 52 and then right back to the cooler, filter, and reservoir. Pressure is low so leaks not a problem. By the way, borrow or buy a Sawzall and a metal-cutting blade: makes quick work of cutting the steel lines.
I can drive around like this forever on my YellowSpeeds, or contemplate the day I replace the tandem pump with a PS pump from a W220 and remove every last bit.
Does this cut off the lines to all struts or must they be capped if so how
Do the existing strut lines need to be capped if so how?
[QUOTE=R jarmoszko;8044091]
Originally Posted by smartadze
All kudos to PMercury - he showed us the way to loop the ABC pump output - at low pressure - and complete a YellowSpeed strut installation.
I have found an even easier method, one that doesn't even require one to get under the car :-) It assumes your tandem pump is still good (or passable), and uses existing plumbing so leaks aren't an issue. Plus it takes 15 minutes and costs about $4.
The downside: the ABC system is dead - but still there. This method wouldn't work for PMercury, as his objective was to remove the system completely. But for the rest of us, it is a simple and easy way to get the YellowSpeed conversion up and running with a minimum of trouble. We can wait to remove the other components at another time.
Note the overall system diagram: we are cutting into lines A and B and connecting them with 3/8" fuel line. We are removing Line C and plugging both ends. THAT's IT! You can plug the other (dead) cut lines if you like, but they have no pressure and mine didn't leak.
Pump output goes from pump to 52, then back to left wheel well.<br/>Line B is return line from rear, heading to cooler and reservoir again.
Here is what they look like in the left wheel well.
Here they are connected.
Find Line C in front of the left wheel well, near the headlight. Remove both ends of Line C. Cut off the line at the end of the metal part, and plug the line with a piece of 3/8 hose and some plugs and clamps. Re-install each end of (plugged) line C. You might be tempted to use a 3/8" flare plug: this will work for the no-pressure side, but will not seal the pressure end.
Location of Line C, right above the horn. This is the pressure side - the remaining line goes to the cooler and reservoir.
Line C
Cut off the fittings and plug each. Re-install.
Done!
You must remove Fuses F9 and F46, and remove the electrical connector at the ABC pump near the suction line on top. When you start, you are circulating through 52 and then right back to the cooler, filter, and reservoir. Pressure is low so leaks not a problem. By the way, borrow or buy a Sawzall and a metal-cutting blade: makes quick work of cutting the steel lines.
I can drive around like this forever on my YellowSpeeds, or contemplate the day I replace the tandem pump with a PS pump from a W220 and remove every last bit.
Does this cut off the lines to all struts or must they be capped if so how
any problems after time elapsed?
did you cap or plug the old lines at the quick connects??
I’ve heard some mention of draining some fluid from the abc reservoir..
did you cap or plug the old lines at the quick connects?? I removed everything including cooling radiator as there is no pressure at all anymore you can loop simple like any hose
I’ve heard some mention of draining some fluid from the abc reservoir.. abc level is not needed to be high I left a reasonable level
any problems after time elapsed?
did you cap or plug the old lines at the quick connects??
I’ve heard some mention of draining some fluid from the abc reservoir..
PMercury
-have you seen “smartadaze” post ? And will it work ??
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