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PMercury
-have you seen “smartadaze” post ? And will it work ??
your thoughts?
so the loop will cut the flow to all the flow to the lines to the struts So if I leave them should be no leaks... also I gather separating the front”ball joint” at strut is a bear any suggestions I have forkbstyle seperator should I use gear puller style?? Thanks for your time I want to make sure I have all parts and tools before I start!!!
your thoughts?
so the loop will cut the flow to all the flow to the lines to the struts So if I leave them should be no leaks... also I gather separating the front”ball joint” at strut is a bear any suggestions I have forkbstyle seperator should I use gear puller style?? Thanks for your time I want to make sure I have all parts and tools before I start!!!
If you leave the stuff under the car I would close input and output there will be some fluid in there
please a picture for that ball joint
I think you will be much happier with the YellowSpeed coilover conversion. Unless they have changed since I researched them last year, the Strutmasters kit does not allow ride-height adjustments - which are a snap with the YellowSpeeds. I also found that the Strutmasters kit sets ride height too high to begin with. Perhaps this has changed since last year. In general, overall forum happiness with YellowSpeeds far exceeds that with Strutmasters.
YellowSpeed downsides: 1) there is no removing the White warning. You can buy the Strutmaster's module ($300+) to remove the warning or just cancel the White Warning at startup with the R button. No big deal. 2) TThe YellowSpeeds must ship from England. If in stock (check web site) it's just 6 or 7 days. If NOT in stock, expect 10 days to 3 weeks.
Even if the rear struts were the cause of the Red Warning, it is very unlikely that simply capping the rears will bring the rest of the system back to life. Without the proper circulation from the rears, the warnings will not turn off. But doing the rears is MUCH more work than doing the fronts. Front strut conversion does not require a lift.
Pump: Just connect the return lines as above and your tandem pump will last forever, running in low-pressure circulation mode. If your tandem pump is already failing, however, you can easily convert to a Power-Steering-only pump for less than$100.
-smartdaze- does this method stop flow to all lines going to struts and should they be plugged at strut end??
PMercury
-have you seen “smartadaze” post ? And will it work ??
I have done it the way "smartadze" did it since my tandem pump was still in good condition and I don't believe you will need to cap off the rest as the circulation will be cut off to the other parts of the systems, but some residual fluid will leak out. I also took my own pictures and made a document for the next owner when I sold my car earlier this year, so this may help.
Last edited by CheapSpeed; Jul 28, 2020 at 12:58 PM.
I have done it the way "smartadze" did it since my tandem pump was still in good condition and I don't believe you will need to cap off the rest as the circulation will be cut off to the other parts of the systems, but some residual fluid will leak out. I also took my own pictures and made a document for the next owner when I sold my car earlier this year, so this may help.
Verry simple
1) remove the Y36/1 and 14 block
behind this block after removal you will see a connection block (B)
two inputs, next to each other, one output going to the front of the car into bumper
2) REMOVE block B. cut the plug of the metal tube going to the bumper
3) connect your hose there
3 REMOVE 52a - 52 (see A)
you'll see two hoses next to each other with aluminum foil, FORGET THOSE
4) Cut the plug of the black hose (that is the one coming from the pump)
connect the other end of your hose connected in B
all done ! perfect circuit, reservoir to pump to cooler to reservoir
NEW! YOU CAN DELETE THE ABC RADIATOR. has been tested for over a year now
If you use the dash light fix module, you can disconnect all electrical wires to ALL the ABC devices
Read my posts before you go into the wrong direction with DAS / Xentry Diagnostics
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changed suspension to silvers neo max. Kept all ABC components. I put pump in loop to prevent leaking by opening the bypass valve has been working okay no leaks!!!
changed suspension to silvers neo max. Kept all ABC components. I put pump in loop to prevent leaking by opening the bypass valve has been working okay no leaks!!!
changed suspension to silvers neo max. Kept all ABC components. I put pump in loop to prevent leaking by opening the bypass valve has been working okay no leaks!!!
what kit did you use? I didn’t see one available for w215 cars
Still looking for an answer to question for sl500 r230. Does the light fix module stop the white warning light as well as the red.. I’ve pulled the fuse and unplugged the pump, but have not installed the module..No red light ...but only white ! Will module shut that off as well??or must it be programmed out..?
Still looking for an answer to question for sl500 r230. Does the light fix module stop the white warning light as well as the red.. I’ve pulled the fuse and unplugged the pump, but have not installed the module..No red light ...but only white ! Will module shut that off as well??or must it be programmed out..?
Hi
The module simulates suspension
therefore no need to pull anything and no lights at all
****will I need to put the fuse back in??and/or plug the pump back in???
if you get the only available module from the Strutmasters morons yes
You have to have everything plugged in as stock
just lie to them and tell them you bought a used car with their struts on it and the module was bot there
without that they won't sell you one
worth of the module 20$ selling price 399$
Last edited by pmercury; Oct 30, 2020 at 09:10 AM.
just do this, then remove everything
I suggest you cut all pipes as removal is easier
remove all devices and radiator
and don't be afraid about pressure, there is no more. keep tank filled as usual, if not you'll kill your pump
Reviving old thread
I am doing this method on my 05 CL600 and wanted to show a photo of the pipe I cut from the pump to the pulsation damper, when compared with the pipe to the reservoir. The ABC pump uses a thick insulation around a small plastic pipe. I am assuming the fluid only travels through the small pipe? Pmercury or anyone else can chime in?
If that's the case, I just need to adapt this small white hose to the reservoir hose to complete my circuit. The small white hose is 4mm ID and the reservoir hose is 10mm ID.
Left is the pump to pulsation damper pipe, right is the reservoir pipe
just do this, then remove everything
I suggest you cut all pipes as removal is easier
remove all devices and radiator
and don't be afraid about pressure, there is no more. keep tank filled as usual, if not you'll kill your pump
Hey 👋 can you help me please? im really confused, what exactly i need to do to re-route my pump so i dont keep my abc side of the pump dry !! one of the front valve line exploded and i want to get rid of the ABC system but keep the pump. You are much appreciated
Hey 👋 can you help me please? im really confused, what exactly i need to do to re-route my pump so i dont keep my abc side of the pump dry !! one of the front valve line exploded and i want to get rid of the ABC system but keep the pump. You are much appreciated
Looks like you have a V8. Which line blew? Any photos of. the blown line?
In any case, you can swap the pump for a non-ABC pump from another V8 Mercedes like an S class or an E class, or do the re-route from the wheel well method found in the previous posts.
Before i go cutting hoses and ruining my life... I thought i would ask lol as i havent had much luck lately... I have a v12 model and its pretty much impossible to see any hoses on the top of the abc pump so i have to use a method under the car.. I just wanted to check that the hose circled in this image is 52 as per diagram...
I did the Strutmasters conversion on my '05 CL500 and it was absolutely flawless and it literally took me 4hrs, by myself! Module came with the kit and was a breeze to install. Although, you will have to live with a couple of red lights in the dash. One is of course the ABC (SPORT) light and the ride level indicator lights. The conversion was done 3.5 years ago and you would think it was done yesterday. Ease of installation was incredible, the handling is superb and the ride is beyond Mercedes quality. I got on this thread to find information on bypassing the hydraulics for the original ride system since I recent blew one of the pressurized lines. My MAIN concern, because of the simplicity of it all, is; "Can you really take the pressure side (output) of the pump directly to the return input of the reservoir?"
Last edited by Merrenny; Feb 24, 2025 at 05:56 PM.
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