ctravis595

Lately I have been addicted to the idea of adding a turbo charger set up to my W215. It seems that a few people have added turbos to CLK’s E 55’s, C’s and CL’s, most seem to have been typical setups with custom turbo manifolds and common sense kinda says that unless you are an experienced welder, a custom turbo manifold can be tricky and/or expensive. So I’m looking to add a rear mount setup

My biggest catalyst/boost of confidence for this idea came from stavros on driftworks forums. Seems he successfully added a rear mount turbo in the trunk of a e55. Here’s a link to his theead

https://www.driftworks.com/forum/thr...tc-etc.228440/

one of the most interesting things I noted about his setup was an air intake valve from a Volvo boat engine. So that the engine can draw ambient air at first, for nice naturally aspirated throttle response, but then the valve switches back To the turbo charge pipe for the best of both worlds. Very cool

theres a YouTube video of a clk500 getting dyno’d With a turbo, he mentions in the comments what he’s done to get the electronics to cooperate. It seems fairly straightforward

i also really liked the idea of the variable geometry turbo for this large displacement/rear mount setup, I don’t want to smash a turbo into the engine bay and deal with tricky manifold issues. One thing I think I will miss though is the aesthetics of a stock mercedes engine bay, seems I’ll have to get rid of my engine cover and just have bare intake manifold/valve covers showing. Good thing I’m getting the valve covers powder coated right now anyways..

if anybody has any advice or experience boosting mercedes, feel free to chime in

C280 Sport

I am assuming you have the N/A CL55 AMG?

ctravis595

C280 Sport

A easy way to get power out of the N/A Engine. I guess if you want something different that not many people have then go for it. Engine and trans are pretty solid so reliability should not be much issue.

ctravis595

this project is well underway, so far i have collected

-holset T4 he531VGT (from a huge semi truck actually)
-50mm ebay wastegate
-2.5" charge pipe/intercooler (not sure if there will even be a good spot for an air to air intercooler, but it was cheap with the charge pipe)
-blow off
-gauge cluster with dual bosch wideband sensors, backpressure and oil temp sensors
-fuel pump voltage booster

unfortunately the holset turbo was damaged during shipping, at first glance it seems unusable. so I am in the process of sending it back and ordering another one. upon close inspection the wastegate also seemed to have a small pinch in the diaphragm so it was also returned.

In now in the process of learning how to weld, so hopefully once i can get these final pieces, as well as some different resistors to try across the MAF wires to prevent fuel shutoff, i will try to knock this job out quickly, at least the major fabrication work with welding and mounting the turbo. it doesn't seem terribly difficult

BlownV8

Help me understand the need for resistors on the MAF?

ctravis595

seems that when the MAF senses too much airflow, the ecu in turn cuts off throttle and fuel. It’s discussed here in regards to supercharging n/a m113 engines

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk55-amg...-resistor.html

pmercury

iTrader: (2)

really exiting project, show pictures when you can

BlownV8

Should be a good project. Looking forward to your results.

ctravis595

so I've got some crazy stories with this process I thought I'd share -

So i ordered a cheap Holset HE531V turbocharger, about $350 with shipping from POLAND. and this thing is absolutely massive

eagerly awaiting delivery, my girlfriend was home when they dropped off the turbo

she says she heard a loud thump, throughout the house when the turbo was delivered. keep in mind this is florida, we have all the windows/doors closed tightly and the a/c blasting all day. so for her to distinctly hear a thump upon delivery is kinda alarming. this was the first red flag

so on my lunchbreak I head home to see my new(used) turbo, and the packaging is trashed. I proceeded to take photos of how badly the packaging was trashed, figuring I would be returning this turbo to the seller for damages

I took the turbo out of the box and tried turning the shaft, there wasn't much shaft play but I thought maybe I heard some very slight scraping noises. which isn't good for a turbo

and then I noticed the VGT actuator was completely snapped off! the iron(?) or steel was literally sheared off from the damages that I assume happened during shipping

So then began the return process

I started by contacting the seller about the damages. I wasn't a huge fan of how he packaged the turbo to begin with, it was just scrap pieces of cardboard loaded into the spare space of the turbo box, and then wrapped in a garbage bag to keep moisture out

The seller instructed me to file a damage claim with UPS, so I started the process online since calling the UPS phone number is largely unhelpful and even somewhat patronizing with their automated calling system. it basically dismisses you unless you want to call to track your package

Upon completing the online damage claim form, the website kept returning an error message rather than a confirmation message that the damage claim was filed. Afterwards, UPS stopped by my house at least 2 times, unannounced, to come pick up the package. Each time I was away at work

I alerted the seller, and he said a local UPS store will have my shipping label to send the turbo back. I went to 3 different stores and they all told me the same thing, the seller is gonna be the one to have the shipping label to return it. While I was there I got a quote to ship the turbo back on my own accord, the quote was about $1300. I went to fedex and they told me about $1400.

Then I spent hours on the phone arguing with different UPS representatives for them to eventually tell me they would not accept my damage claim. Despite all the photos I took of the package as it arrived on my doorstep, despite my photos of the clearly damaged VGT actuator, they told me they will not accept my claim because i "did not have all of the original packaging material for an inspection". I told them this was bull**** and that I was never instructed by anyone to retain all of the packaging, and that I shouldn't be held responsible to keep their garbage. I've ordered a good bit of stuff for this turbo build, if I kept every single box and packaging material for this process I would run out of room in my garage to still park my car...I told them when they clearly damage packages, maybe they should include a disclaimer notice that informs the recipient to keep every piece of the packaging in the event of a damage claim. instead, they just threw my 50lb turbo on my doorstep, damaged and then told me "tough luck, you should have kept all of the packaging"

Then I filed a claim with ebay. The have their "money back guarantee" program going, even though the shipper does not offer returns. Apparently the seller is supposed to either tell me when UPS is coming to pick up/inspect the package (because UPS does not tell anything to the recipient, which makes no sense in my opinion but I don't make the rules) OR provide me with a return shipping label. I was never alerted to UPS showing up to pick up the package, like I mention earlier in this post. The seller also never provided me with a phone number for return shipping, which UPS will not ship a package overseas without a phone number for the recipient at all

Ebay sided with me, and gave the seller about a week to provide me with another shipping label, since they never alerted me to when UPS was coming to get the package originally.

The seller did not comply, so eBay gave me a full refund for the turbo.

Luckily I've found a way that I can utilize the VGT system of the turbo, without having to use the broken VGT actuator. You can see in the video I linked above on the e55 rear mount video how this was done. I didn't realize the VGT actuator was not needed until me and a friend disassembled the housings of the turbo, and realized we can make this work without the VGT actuator with just a spring. It will open up the turbo as it builds more exhaust pressure, and provide a more linear boost, instead of boosting all at once. This VGT system was one of the main catalyst in me wanting to do this project, otherwise I was not too terribly interested in turbos for their laggy nature, the unpredictable(at first) charge pressures ETC. Upon disassembly we discovered the internals of the turbo are actually in fairly decent shape!

So all in all, I will say I do not recommend ebay seller Turbo-King. The guy who pioneered this rear mount m113 n/a turbo idea, stavros, mentions on this Holset guide that he's been burned by this seller before. By painting an otherwised trashed turbo, to make it appear functional in the photos. See the link below to his guide on Holset turbos which he mentions that, and in which I found incredibly useful in this process and my decision to pull the trigger on the HE531. The seller mentioned in the ad that this would be shipped via fedex. This is not the first time this year I have received a trashed package from UPS. So I was disappointed to find out this package was being delivered via UPS and voila, another damaged package. The packaging included with the turbo largely contributed to how damaged and abused the turbo was when it arrived to me. Luckily Ebay stepped in to help or I would've been out $350 with what I assumed was a trashed turbo

I also do not recommend UPS. They entirely lost a package I sent to a user of this forum earlier this year, and would not let me open an investigation simply because i did not have the recipients phone number....very ridiculous....I spent about $100 sending two strutmasters struts, for them to lose it and throw their hands in the air about the matter because I did not have their phone number. After dealing with UPS representatives, and seeing how they lose/damage my packages, I am starting to despise the company. Not to mention their shipping rates are becoming a bit ridiculous.

Now onto the process of restoring and cleaning the turbo, ordering a new wastegate, oil scavenge pump and then get familiar with welding to finalize the shopping list for this build, and get to work finally. Getting a free turbo out of the process, and disassembling the turbo to find it seems usable, has provided a good boost in motivation to get this project underway again. Dealing with the seller and UPS was a huge discouraging hassle

ctravis595

http://www.stavtech.co.uk/home/the-u...guide-probably

Good guide for Holset turbos

SLcharge

This would be a suitable turbo for your project, A/R 0.95.
It's a popular turbo, and it should be possible to find a used one.

https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing...urbo/gtx4088r/

Your whole drive line will accept up to 737 lb.ft.
Don't forget to upgrade your brakes. The OEM 330mm front brakes and calipers can't handle the added power. AMG brakes would be in order here.
I would upgrade the rear brakes as well.

ctravis595

you really think the 2002 cl500 rear dif and rear axles I have will handle 737 lb ft?

I have the e55 amg tranny from 2001, the cl55 amg engine from 2002...really unsure about things like the rear axle. and I am fairly sure my stock ecu wont compensate past 500/550 hp without upgrading the ecu. really my goal is just a modest 450/475hp for now

maybe one day ill blow the engine and install a m113k block/rods etc and go for something closer to 600hp, but that's years away, i believe

i largely largely largely agree about the brakes...i have the 2002 cl55 amg brakes in the rear but they are only a few mm larger in diameter than my cl500 brakes were, i still have the stock 2002 cl500 front brakes and while 4 piston brembo brakes are no joke, they are already leaving something to be desired with my driving style. waiting on a good deal on some 8 piston front brakes, then we will see where to go with the rears, maybe i just need some 8 pistons in the front and i will be satisfied

regarding the turbo, i'll keep that in mind. im really dead-set on some sort of VGT turbine system at the moment though

SLcharge

Your diff has code 2203510508 and if I remember right it is capable of 737 lb.ft., but i might remember wrong.

pmercury

iTrader: (2)

differentials from MB are tested up to 3x their original needed
your differential is used in these cars
1 220026 S 320 CDI 35 015
1 220028 S 400 CDI 35 015
1 220070 S 430 35 015
1 220073 S 55 AMG 35 015
1 220075 S 500 35 015
1 220126 S 320 CDI 35 015
1 220128 S 400 CDI 35 015
1 220170 S 430 35 015
1 220173 S 55 AMG 35 015
1 220175 S 500 35 015
1 220178 S 600 35 0

really, you can go up to 1000 without any problem
I have a modified 80% autolock dif as I had to much slippery on the right wheel

BlownV8

450 to 475 hp is not worth the aggravation of going through the process. At 1 bar with proper intercooler and fuel, you will be over 700 hp.

ctravis595

There’s nothing really aggravating about the process to me, I’m doing this for fun, not in need to win races or finish the project in order to meet a deadline for a track day etc. and like I said, I’ll be set up already for the day I want to go into bigger power numbers. Who knows if that will even still be a m113 then

BlownV8

Let me rephrase. 450 to 475hp would not be enough return for the time I spent having fun putting this together.

ctravis595

You’ll have to watch the video I linked above, this work can be done in under 12 hours. It’s really simple

the biggest hassle is dealing with ups and I’ll also have to learn how to weld, which as a guy who likes to mod cars, I should know anyways

ctravis595

Been very busy lately, I was bored with my job so I decided to take a position as a service tech for the new Mercedes dealership here near Tampa. The hours are long but the perks, especially as a Mercedes enthusiast, are endless

I cleaned up the turbo, and recently decided I needed to address one of my rotors which is becoming warped, and fix my conductor plate in my transmission. Luckily I’m able to use the lifts at work for the conductor plate because it can be messy

in the process of procrastinating my conductor plate install, my starter failed, most likely due to the many restarts I have done over the past 6 months when the conductor plate throws an error. So that has been added to the list of things delaying the turbo

but soon enough we will be underway, hopefully this weekend I have time to start routing the charge piping

pmercury

iTrader: (2)

I was bored too and just fired Dieter Zetsche, MB CEO and replaced him

ctravis595

ctravis595

New brakes update
brakes are finally done! See photos

ctravis595

The basics , still waiting on a new wastegate to arrive

The cavity with the oem amp and cd changer removed

Amazingly, an oil tank from a Honda 500 atv fits way too perfectly in this cavity. The tank comes with the lines. An oil dipstick and an oil cap/fill nozzle. All for $25!!! Way too cool.


Being that I was able to find a suitably sized oil tank for my turbo in this existing cavity, my turbo will have little trouble draining downwards into the tank, preventing oil blowing past the turbo seals and lots of smoke/dirty intake manifold.

Holset recommends a minimal 30% decline from the turbo drain to the reservoir for proper oil drainage, being able to fit the oil tank down below the turbo is gonna be great

the photo below is an extremely crude and quick example of where I’ll want the turbo to sit

One of my goals include being able to still fit a spare tire in the trunk when finished, if possible!

If I can reinstall the oem carpeting panels back into the trunk I would be very pleased with this setup. Ideally, at first glance it won’t look any different than OEM besides the large subwoofers on the rear deck and the massive turbo...




and i thought I already uploaded this photo, but here is the placement on the dash of the boost/oil temp and wideband gauges!



With the facelift stereo conversion completed as well



a couple months ago, in the shop/on the lift replacing my conductor plate and modifying my valve body for quicker shifts



Having access to the lifts at work makes everything so much easier

pmercury

iTrader: (2)

looks great
what exactly has been done on conductor plate to get quicker shifts ?
please detail