So my trunk was acting up, when closing, after it latched the right hing area would push up indefinitely instead sucking down, to get around this I would just press the release/open button and push the trunk down and it would close and go down in the hinge area as it should with the help of the hydraulic pump. As for opening it was ok, slow but ok, probably low on fluid.

My car was in for service and now the trunk only unlatches, I guess they left the trunk hydraulic pump run forever?? Anyways, if there is no sound from the hydraulic pump should I assume its dead? I have in the past refilled the fluid in it, but even then it always made sound, now nothing, as if its deactivated.

Checked the fuse #57 and #62, they seem ok.

 

hook up Xentry
this can be the pump, the button or only the settings in rear module of not fuses nor plugs-wiring

 

Thanks for the reply, yeah that's what I've been reading, the pump probably ran for to long and triggered the safety shutoff, as I do not access to a Xentry, I will try to remove the fuse for half an hour to reset...

 

Fuse 57 and 62 removal did not fix my problem, fuse 13 seems to have something to do with this as well

here is a recap of my problem: latch on truck works correctly (unlocks), motor ie hydraulic pump does not activate (no sound), soft close does not suck in trunk once manually closed( but works for doors, and no hissing sound)

any new ideas? I think I will unplug the battery to try and reset again

 

first thing to do is hook up Xentry and initialize the trunk
if the angle sensor is not correctly initialized, it can't tell the trunk when to close
at the same time you might see issues if any

 

first i must ask have you ever rebuilt the trunk "puck" thing that usually needs fixed on these cars? the locking/vacuum mechanism thing often starts cracking apart and needs some JB weld treatment to get it back together. mine has been working great ever since (i only have auto open trunk, not auto close trunk feature)

i have heard the auto close feature has its own seperate hydraulic(or air?) pump underneath the battery, i've heard from multiple people that theyve just topped off the fluid in the pump below the battery and their trunk worked again fine

if software doesn't lead you to an answer there are a few adjustments you can make -

i hate to break it to you but they may have backed your car into another car/wall, you'd think more damage would show on these cars but I've been rear ended before with virtually no damage, and i've backed my w215 into my girlfriends jeep once accidentally. you may want to take a second look at everything back there for scratches etc. they may have tried to use touch up paint to cover up the damage. on my car, these rear end collisons only only moved the trunk out of alignment, needed the trunk hinges replaced and i had to replace a cracked taillight. These cars are fairly tough in the rear surprisingly, i expected everything to fold and crack. especially with the trunk lid being made of plastic....

there are two rubber "stops" on each side of the trunk lid, underneath side on the far outside corners. these little rubber "stops" can be screwed in and out to further adjust the trunk hatch. if this doesn't help, and everything else is OK you can loosen the 10mm bolts the hold the trunk hinges and manipulate them to better suit your trunk position. be warned though if you are not experienced with aligning body pieces like this is can get quite frustrating getting everything lined up to OEM specs again. I believe there is a specific measurement/tolerance for how much space there is between trunk lid/body panels ETC. you don't have to take these 10mm bolts completely out....if you loosen them, you can use a 2x4" and a hammer to nudge them into a more desirable position

lastly, the trunk has a little "hook" where the latch sets itself, in the center. this can be adjusted a little bit by loosening the two bolts

in regards to the trunk not opening itself anymore, most of the effort to raise the trunk lid is in the trunk lid springs rather than the vacuum/hydraulic pump itself. the springs can be adjusted. i've been told the trunk springs not only help to close the trunk into the proper alightment/position but they are also the main force that causes the trunk to open all the way up. the springs can be adjusted to have the trunk open more/less forcefully as well

 

Fixed!

first my struts needed to be replaced, then the lock actuator had an air leak, and the main problem was no oil in the hydraulic motor which in turned cause the position detector to not recognize position correctly and completely shutoff the system.

The reset trunk position procedure in xentry is in the PSE pump section even though the pump that opens and closes the trunk is an independent hydraulic pump.

I think the worn struts were causing the hydraulic motor to work a bit too much, oil seeped out the piston... the best way to test the pump to unplug its connector and plug 12v directly to it.

 

there is a position sensor also