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And it starts.... My reliable CL600 has finally given me my first aneurism.
No passenger front window, no seat controls, door mirror or lock. Failed with the door open, so though the rear window works, it won't raise all the way because it still thinks the door is open. (Still had to dick around with the door card to drop the front window in order to close the damned door!)
On-seat controls seem to work (Pulse, lumbar etc), though the auto seat-forward movement had long failed beforehand - will ask about this later
First place is the usual door wiring in the accordion connector - found a few suspect wires in there including the main live and ground. They are not severed but the brown (N?) and red/blk (L?) sheathing (among some other colours) has opened right up. Hoping to find enough strands have failed to drop the current.
QUESTION 1
I wanted to check before repairing - are any of these wires (inc. SRS) 'resistance-sensitive'? Will adding another 5cm upset any measurements by various modules/CANBUS - or am I reading too much into it?
QUESTION 2
Should I be picking up 12v between the RED/BLK & BROWN heavy-gauge wires on the main 6-pin connector in any key state?
QUESTION 3
Should this not be my issue and I have a Door Control Module problem, where is this located exactly? Remember I am RHD (I don't know if this makes a difference, probably not).
QUESTION 4
Apparently, fuse 13 under the bonnet on the left is for the LEFT DCM. But I don't have a fuse 13. There is nothing in this location - is that normal? I have a 2003/4 car.
So I found continuity between the brown wire and one side of the fuse under the seat. Thought that the fuse would link the live supply, but I guess not if the red/black wire is meant to be live.
Just tried a second hand DCM (different part number) - not a sausage.
Cannot make much sense of the WIS diagram other than it continuing to point at F13 in the left fuse box under the hood. I do not have a fuse there.
So I found continuity between the brown wire and one side of the fuse under the seat. Thought that the fuse would link the live supply, but I guess not if the red/black wire is meant to be live.
Just tried a second hand DCM (different part number) - not a sausage.
Cannot make much sense of the WIS diagram other than it continuing to point at F13 in the left fuse box under the hood. I do not have a fuse there.
anybody?
I have a 2006 CL500 and currently have almost the same situation you have going on with you, no power to passenger window, mirror or seat controls (the ones in the door DCM) and when I open the passenger door from outside the window doesn't drop but the lock and unlock does work and I noticed that if I give the door a little pull from the handle inside and everything works again perfectly until that door is opened/closed/used then the cycle starts again.
unfortunately I don't have any answer to your questions but I suspect a bad connection to the DCM itself. I will be working on that issue through this week (currently working on Stereo upgrade right now)
I will try to check for your questions and will keep you posted with what I find.
Cheers Adlianooo. It definately sounds like broken wiring for you. If it all works with the door in one position and not in another, the first place I would be looking is in the accordion boot for the door shut. (the clips are top and bottom if that helps - I just gave it a bit of a shove downwards and it came free).
As for my car specifically, I got to the bottom of it. Hope this helps someone else.
Turns out I cannot count
The neutral return DOES go back to the fuse box under the rear seat. It terminates on one side of the 25A fusible link.
The live returns to FUSE 13 in the F1 fuse box under the bonnet (Nearside RHD, Driver side LHD). It terminates on one side of a 40A fusible link. (Mine had a 15A in there)
NOTE: The SRS Airbag CAN be disconnected provided the ignition is off. I triggered no codes disconnecting and reconnecting in this way - no need to remove the battery.
This whole thread has been born out of my inability to count the spaces where other fuses would have been on other models. I did not count the first three empty spaces in the long row of fuses in the box (fuse 6/7/8), which is how I 'didn't' get to fuse 13.
Needless to say that the door now works again as it should - with the addition of the keyless go button operating (the harness clip had broken and was disconnected).
Cheers Adlianooo. It definately sounds like broken wiring for you. If it all works with the door in one position and not in another, the first place I would be looking is in the accordion boot for the door shut. (the clips are top and bottom if that helps - I just gave it a bit of a shove downwards and it came free).
As for my car specifically, I got to the bottom of it. Hope this helps someone else.
Turns out I cannot count
The neutral return DOES go back to the fuse box under the rear seat. It terminates on one side of the 25A fusible link.
The live returns to FUSE 13 in the F1 fuse box under the bonnet (Nearside RHD, Driver side LHD). It terminates on one side of a 40A fusible link. (Mine had a 15A in there)
NOTE: The SRS Airbag CAN be disconnected provided the ignition is off. I triggered no codes disconnecting and reconnecting in this way - no need to remove the battery.
This whole thread has been born out of my inability to count the spaces where other fuses would have been on other models. I did not count the first three empty spaces in the long row of fuses in the box (fuse 6/7/8), which is how I 'didn't' get to fuse 13.
Needless to say that the door now works again as it should - with the addition of the keyless go button operating (the harness clip had broken and was disconnected).
Thanks, it does help, I had a similar problem with driver door accordion like a month ago and thank God had it fixed in a couple of days (because I was busy)
Good job on your work, but I would say what happened with you was for a reason (you misread the fuses) so that you would do a post and one day it would help someone else
Hi all, I'm going to attempt to resurrect this feed. My 2003 cl500 is having a similar problem, but it's intermittent; passenger side door clearly has power as all lights are on but upon initial start up and during driving the window won't drop, the heated seat doesn't work and you cannot move the seat or open the door, when trying to drop the window using the driver controls you can hear the actuator activate but the window doesn't drop.
Then, when parked and engine is switched off (but ignition is still on) everything works as it should.
Someone seems to have been in the wiring harness before and it's a mess, but it was working properly when i first bought the car and for 2 weeks. My only thought is that since temperatures have dropped the cold weather has increased the resistance of the wire?
I plugged in a icarsoft diagnostic tool to see if it would give me anything, i've attached a picture of the message.
So, i guess my question is, do i just have a fault wire or door control module?
I didn't have a door wiring issue with mine, but light corrosion on the pins/contacts from the door module to the wiring harness. I removed the PCB for the door module, lightly sanded all the contacts, re-flowed the solder on the connections (just melted with a soldering gun), then reassembled and put silicone grease on the contact before reconnecting the module. No more issues.
Does anyone know where to get wires in the proper sizes and colors?
I think at some time I want to take the door panel off, redo all the wires and reconnect them down in the dash. ALL these cars will have issues with the door wires at some point
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