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Hey guys I've been having problems for the last months ever since I bought this 2005 CL65
..no heat
I took it to a mechanic who I think have been taking me for a ride or she made me replace the water pump the thermostat auxiliary pump etc etc
And still no heat and I got suspicious.
This luck would have it I had to replace the windshield plastic cowl..
Lo and behold it appears that both heater cores have been... bypassed..
Am I missing something?
Am I wrong to assume that with both aluminum pipes left and right disconnected there's no way I can get heat in the cabin.. right??
Pls see pics.
PLEASE SHARE PICS of the normal setup so that I can see what to do next.
Thanks
Last edited by abdoulwane; 03-02-2022 at 05:01 PM.
My CL is from 2001 and it's a regular 5.7 V12.
It seems to me that the structure should be the same..
As you wrote:
There are three nozzles - connections:
One on the driver's side - A.
Two on the passenger side - B.
In my opinion, someone closed the circuits and completely disconnected the cab.
If you need more detailed photos, write I have this circuit disassembled. I think that without disassembling you will not see if the system is connected.
The only question is whether it was easier for someone to disconnect the heating in the engine compartment than to replace the heat exchanger inside because it is leaking.
Thank you! I would appreciate indeed as many photos as possible. Mechanic charged me for more than 4,000 to replace parts to no avail. Thermostat, heater core, auxillary pump, transfer pump and what not. He claimed to have removed the dash board twice etc.... Indeed there were a major leak AFTER he made those replacements.... I had some heat finally but with leaks!! . He claimed to have pressure tested it and that everything was fine but when I picked up the car. Those were lies.... no heat. Mechanic disappeared on me.. meanwhile I really want to fix this. What is the solution to the leak in the cabin? Shat do I need to replace precisely? From my research, i suspected the heater control valve and As planning to replace it next but obviously I need to fix a leak. Please advise.
Originally Posted by M137
My CL is from 2001 and it's a regular 5.7 V12.
It seems to me that the structure should be the same..
As you wrote:
There are three nozzles - connections:
One on the driver's side - A.
Two on the passenger side - B.
In my opinion, someone closed the circuits and completely disconnected the cab.
If you need more detailed photos, write I have this circuit disassembled. I think that without disassembling you will not see if the system is connected.
The only question is whether it was easier for someone to disconnect the heating in the engine compartment than to replace the heat exchanger inside because it is leaking.
The video shows a broken hose connection that supplies the heater of the washer fluid reservoir.
I am not a mechanic as a hobby I restore my CL, but in my opinion it is unlikely that the liquid from this place will get inside the cabin.
In the first step, I would dismantle this element - the cabin air filter housing. This will give you better access to the hoses.
The solenoid valve and pumps are powered by a hose running from the passenger side.
The hoses marked in green should be connected to these inputs.
In your case, they are not, so to check if the solenoid valve works, I would find them, disconnected them, because they are definitely connected to the drain hose on the driver's side (the one connected to the plastic tee from the YouTube video) and I would connect them with a transparent hose to this one drain hose.
I would start the engine and watch what happens. This, in my opinion, would allow a visual check that the system is working.
Fluid arrives at the valve and pumps, and the valve opens to admit fluid into the heater.
However, when it comes to checking the tightness, the diagram is similar - you would have to plug two of the three nozzles and try to bring air under pressure and check whether the pressure drops or not.
As I say, I am not a mechanic but just a DIY enthusiast.
I am thinking about starting over and cut my losses. What is the part that I most likely need to replace that resulted in the leak in the cabin. Soaked floors...
I don't know how to call it in English but this is a ''the condenser - drainage''.
It is a piece of rubber tube filled with a sponge inside - at least it looks like a sponge, because after 20 years it has already lost all its value ..
This allows the moisture that condenses on the heater to be brought outside the car..
On the other side is the same "tube". I think it can be replaced with an ordinary rubber hose.
Let me tell you that taking off the dashboard is only part of the job. The entire heater is under a metal frame and it takes some time to dismantle it.
Good point I did not pay attention to before. These two drains crumble. Replace them with rubber hoses.
Should anyone be interested .. water drains are on the right and left.
After dismantling the tunnel covers, you can see them in the marked place.
Thank you so much! This is a massive job that I can not do alone at my house with this cold weather. I will figure something out. Thank you for your invaluable guidance and help!!
Thank you so much! This is a massive job that I can not do alone at my house with this cold weather. I will figure something out. Thank you for your invaluable guidance and help!!
Cheers
Carefully screw two barbed fittings of appropriate size in the holes and connect with hose. Try anything before the dashboard, etc.
Use an epoxy to seal the barb. Tap the “receiving” hole as needed.
03-02-2022, 04:28 PM
. He claimed to have pressure tested it and that everything was fine but when I picked up the car. Those were lies.... no heat. Mechanic disappeared on me.. meanwhile I really want to fix this. What is the solution to the leak in the cabin? Shat do I need to replace precisely? From my research, i suspected the heater control valve and As planning to replace it next but obviously I need to fix a leak. Please advise.
