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I wanted to post that I used RMT, a group out of Florida to purchase two rebuilt abc struts for my 2007 CL 550.
I was very very pleased with the quality, the struts were around $550 each. Each had a $200 core charge that is refunded after returning old strut(s). Postage to return old strut(s) is included in the above pricing. Also want to give a nod to Peter "BenzNinja" for helping me complete the final step… Level calibration, and plunger calibration. I purchased Peter's program about two years ago and his service has paid for itself 10X over the last two years. He assisted initially with the purchase of the laptop and additional diagnostic equipment, remotely signed in and programmed everything, and has helped diagnose-program any issues I have had with over last 2 years! Thanks Peter!!!!
Hello mate, when you changed the shock absorbers, did you do the detour, and did it work well? did you have to calibrate using xentry?
so sorry, I'm not familiar with what you are referring to with the term detour, the process after replacement is to do the front to back rodeo to bleed the system, then the final step, which is what Peter @BenzNinja performed using zentry, is a level calibration and plunger calibration 👍🏻
Thanks for posting this. I've been researching what to do with my 17 year old ABC system, and have looked at RMT in Florida. They have mixed reviews, so glad to hear someone here had a good experience. I wholeheartedly agree about BenzNinja. I joined about two years ago also, and he is a must have to keep one's car running.
They immediately responded after receiving the two core Abc struts and said it would be up to 14 days before reimbursement for core charge. They reimbursed core charges after about 10 business days 👍🏻
so sorry, I'm not familiar with what you are referring to with the term detour, the process after replacement is to do the front to back rodeo to bleed the system, then the final step, which is what Peter @BenzNinja performed using zentry, is a level calibration and plunger calibration 👍🏻
Thank you very much for responding, I was referring to it as a rodeo, but Google Translate played tricks on me. For the final calibration, just use xentry?
Hi guys, I've already changed the ABC pump. To bleed the system, can I put pressure in the canister and turn the pump by hand? Or do I start the vehicle and press the button to raise the suspension? Thanks.
Hi guys, I've already changed the ABC pump. To bleed the system, can I put pressure in the canister and turn the pump by hand? Or do I start the vehicle and press the button to raise the suspension? Thanks.
have a pump at the ready, something as little as a bicycle pump can work as long as you tape it to the dipstick hole. A 12v pump is fine but the pressure happens very quick and if you seal the pump to the tank well, you could blow it up. I’ve used a pump where you can set it to turn off as well, like 10-15 psi, for ten seconds or less. It does not take much. Give it a little bit of pressure, start the car press raise and go back and pump a couple more times. I wouldn’t recommend it, but you could likely even get away with doing this with your mouth and a tube, ask me how I know. The goal is to pump it before the red light comes on the dash but if it does, just turn the car off pump a little more and repeat. It’s very easy once you’ve done it once, and not really something to worry about unless you add so much pressure to blow up the tank.
and to add, if for some reason, air gets in the system because you suck in the fluid too quickly, don’t worry about it just repeat the process and any air in the lines will self bleed because the system is effectively one line in and one line out for each of the corners. Air goes around the circuit and winds up back in the tank.
Last edited by Baltistyle; Aug 20, 2024 at 09:46 PM.
have a pump at the ready, something as little as a bicycle pump can work as long as you tape it to the dipstick hole. A 12v pump is fine but the pressure happens very quick and if you seal the pump to the tank well, you could blow it up. I’ve used a pump where you can set it to turn off as well, like 10-15 psi, for ten seconds or less. It does not take much. Give it a little bit of pressure, start the car press raise and go back and pump a couple more times. I wouldn’t recommend it, but you could likely even get away with doing this with your mouth and a tube, ask me how I know. The goal is to pump it before the red light comes on the dash but if it does, just turn the car off pump a little more and repeat. It’s very easy once you’ve done it once, and not really something to worry about unless you add so much pressure to blow up the tank.
and to add, if for some reason, air gets in the system because you suck in the fluid too quickly, don’t worry about it just repeat the process and any air in the lines will self bleed because the system is effectively one line in and one line out for each of the corners. Air goes around the circuit and winds up back in the tank.
Thank you for your reply and for your help, the tank is full to the level (vehicle stopped), and I have already found a pump to pressurize to 1 bar. It is not very sunken to have changed the abc pump and the accumulators, I thought it would go down to the maximum
Good afternoon!! I finally managed to change the pump and, thanks to your help, bleed the system. Here are some photos of how I did it. I introduced pressure (1 bar) through the dipstick hole, using an oil pump with a pressure gauge and the 722.9 gearbox adapter. I started the vehicle and let the pressure act for a few minutes, and that was it. I removed the pressure pump and raised and lowered the vehicle about 7 times using the internal button. All that's left is the road test. The pressure, according to you, is 189 bars with the engine running and the suspension at rest.
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