BAD430BENZ

i actually own a c63 amg but this question is for my dad . he has a cl55 amg and wanted to know the best way to lower the car more than you can with the oem adjustment ?

krazyhousecstms

The easiest way and probably the most common way to lower the CL is using adjustable links on your air suspension. These basically trick the computer into think the car is higher than it actually is therefore making it lower.

They are much cheaper than the modules and just as easy to install. Let me know if you're interested.

James@ACG

RENNtech ELM is the way to go, give me a call for special Xmas pricing.

Exotic-metal55

FYI;The CL does not have air suspension, it has hydrualic ABC suspension..

I would use STAR to lower it the amount you want.

jicl55

Think that the CLs, for whatever reason, have a problem with the STAR method. I know of a few that ended up jacked up like a 4X4 a week or so later after the STAR method. You could do it the super cheap way with washers or the adjustable links. I have the washers and haven't had a problem ever. I like the ELMs, they are probably the better but more expensive way to go. The only problem is that with a lot of them, you lose that in car ability to raise or lower the car with the button. You do not lose that with the washers or the adjustable links. But on the plus side, think they adjust the computer to the new settings, instead of just "tricking" it as with the washers or adjustable links. But any one of those should do the trick. Just do a search on the forum and you'll find info for all methods and be able to make your decision.

John V.

Links are simple to install, can set the vehicle to whatever height you like and can be removed without ever telling the vehicle was modified.

Give me a call, can set you up!!!

02cl55amg

just installed mine this weekend on my cl65.

Patentmat

Got links on mine . . . been great, just fools the trick suspension to lower the car more

PA55AMG

I have a set of links for sale that were on my '06 S55AMG. Same as the CL55 links.

PM me.

Bill


P.S. Not trying to take a sale away from John, he is a great guy, but I just don't need them anymore.

AMGTestDriverNJ

STAR won't work on ATLEAST the 03 W215 AMGs. I'm not sure why but the ECU won't except ANY values other than what is pre-programmed. Even when the values are within the specified range, the computer won't log them.

trsuciye

I accept with information: The only problem is that with a lot of them, you lose that in car ability to raise or lower the car with the button. You do not lose that with the washers or the adjustable links. But on the plus side, think they adjust the computer to the new settings, instead of just "tricking" it as with the washers or adjustable links.

fatmike

I have links and renntech ELM v2 and my stock button still works fine.

Exotic-metal55

The people that use washers to lower the front; what do you do to lower the rear? Are there two sensors in the rear?

IngenereAMG

We have used the Adjustable Air Ride links from John for our clients. They are a great, well made product and John has always taken great care of us. We do use the STAR system after we install the links to dial everything in. The combination has been great for our clients.

jicl55

I think that they welded some kind of piece in there (probably to push the sensors up) but not exactly sure to tell you the truth..... it is more complicated than the front. But if you are thinking of doing it to your ride..... if you can find a ELM that allows you to still adjust the stock button on the go with full functionality I would do that, if you want to fork over the change for it. Not sure "tricking the sensor" is the best way to go. A lot of calculations going on there in the ABS and what not. Probably unnoticeable in regular daily driving (I haven't noticed anything, other than rubbing my tires every once in a while) but on a track, I think it may be a different story. If not, put some washers on that thing and cal it a day.... Like I said, have had it for over 30k miles and all is well..... sorry don't have more info about the back for you tho.

Exotic-metal55

How much lower did front washers drop the front end? I tried it and it dropped a 1/2 inch.. Like to go a little lower? Anyone using washers in the rear?

jicl55

I had it dropped so that my lowest setting is now my highest setting. So whatever that difference between the highest and lowest setting is.... like inch? or inch and a half? If you want more of a drop, add another washer, that's it. And like I said, I had someone else do it, so not exactly sure how the rear was done, so maybe someone else can chime in. I don't ever rub on the front (w/ 255/35/20) but do in the rear (285/30/20) but I think you have 18s, right? Drop that mother! Not sure how it may help or hurt your 60' times or matter at all, so keep that in mind too.

Exotic-metal55

Thanks for the info.. FYI , 5mm thick washer dropped my front 3/4" of an inch.. Wheel to fender space is even now but still a 4x4 to most..

Yes, a drop car does not help weight transfer for drag racing but I doubt 3/4 in the front will hurt to much.. I race at the highest level anyway..

kzsport

I take the 01' CL55 with lower susp already..but like you guys said" rubbing my tires every once in a while" The wheel were 19" with 275/40/19...My friend's lower W215 never rubbing tires with 19" wheels but 20" done rear wheels only.
I want to tuned susp lower system but where's link or ELM locate on 01' CL55??
My friend's w215 spend 2 more weeks for ADJ susp with lower link!!!Maybe he didn't find out MB tuning shop for this job I thought.
Can the STAR work on ATLEAST the 01 W215 AMG ??

Will be appreciate for reply

Brian

SLCL

When you guys have rubbing issues, do they rub on the inside or the outside of the wheels? Thanks in advance.

kzsport

rubbing at outside wheels with rear fender and rear bumper Connection..my W215 with 275/40/19...

Patentmat

1.5 in drop on my '04 CL55 W215 with 305/25/20. Used to rub very slightly every so often on the inside - and even then only every so often on the freeway with a particularly large undulation. For whatever reason, maybe it is my new tires, maybe it rubbed down whatever it was coming up against, it doesn't do it any more. The outside rear fender/rear bumper is fine---I think you just have to get your offset right on your wheels. I went with Brabus so offset is perfect (they are for sale in the classified section btw). I would post the offset but I am not sure what they are, so when I take the wheels off and go back to stock I will check them and repost.

SLCL

You rub at 275/40/19? It could be your wheels need to have bigger offset number.

I am trying to get the Mandrus Stuttgart wheels. According to some sellers, they would fit my CL55 but I am not 100% sure. Has anyone tried?

Stock: 18"x8.5" 44mm offset front and 18"x9" 46mm offset rear
245/45/18 front and 265/40/18 rear

Wanted: (Mandrus Stuttgart)
20"x9" 37mm offset front and 20"x10" 40mm offset rear
255/35/20 front and 285/30/20 rear

And I am about to lower the car around 1" with links.

tigerwild

I recently changed rear tires to 275/40/18 and the car started to drift and bounce over bumps, not sure if it bottoms out and if that's bad for suspension or because changed to wider rear tires without adjusting offsets. Any help guys!!!!!

JHouse

OK, on a CL W215 here are the details no one told me. First, a half hour my a$$. But I might be able to shorten the time for you. My son came to help and it was greatly appreciated. He’s getting better than me at the mechanical stuff. It is actually heartening to see the tables turning.

First, the rear can be done on ramps like I was told. Tip: raise the suspension as high as possible (two dots on your button). You have to get under the car. You are removing rubber pockets from a metal ball. The upper end goes to a flexible arm that moves very easily when detached, and it makes you think it is easy to destroy, which it probably is. Take the bottom off first, it is pretty easy to just push it back with your hands or a screwdriver. Then the top twists off pretty easy without breaking that fragile arm. Note that before you take it off the arm is angled toward the center of the car. So keep it that way when you reattach the new one. Pour some liquid soap in the new ones and the slide right on with your hands.

Here is the critical part no one tells you: My set of new arms came being adjusted to the factory stock lengths. Double check them against the factory arms you remove. If you want to drop it to a 27” fender to ground height (I will post pictures) then you only need to shorten the links 3 FULL TURNS. That is half what it takes for the front arms.

I followed the instructions and change the fronts and the rears the exact same amount and the rears were way lower than the fronts. So adjusting the fronts and rears are completely different. The fronts need twice as many turns as the rears, and in the opposite direction.

Then, for the fronts. If you just jack up the front of the car at the forward rocker panel location just a little, you don’t need the wheel off the ground, you can get to the forward arms. You don’t need to go under the car for these. They are above the front tire and easy to get to. Pry them off the same way. Then 6 full turns LONGER than stock will get you to a 27” fender to ground height. Remember the soap. Easy peasy.

I’m telling the precise number of turns so that you don’t have to do it wrong the first time and end up with the rear end too low, and have to do it all over, like I did.

The adjustable links have a locking nut. It is pretty unnecessary, since the ends are on posts and can’t turn so it can never change positions. I found it easier to do the minimal tightening required after it was installed. One end is already tight and doesn’t need anything. The end you adjust can be tightened a tad, and that’s enough. Nothing can get out of whack.

When you get the car off the ramps and jack, it will be screwy. I used my height button to move it up and down about 10 times. I backed up, went forward, turned the car off and on, raised and lowered. For the 3 rounds of measurements, it was different every frick’n time. It seems to settle and lower more with each round of measurements. Drive it around. Hit the brakes, jump on the gas. Horse with the button. It will eventually settle in and get regulated. It freaked me out at first, and I was cussing all of you. But it settled down and now it is stable, and looks frick’n great. Just what I wanted. It looks perfect.

Here's my result: