Hey all. Having couple problems with the CL65. It's an 06 with 52,400 miles. First is that it keeps fluctuating in engine temperature from 80 degrees up to 95 degrees while driving. The turbos keep coming on and off it feels like it loses massive amounts of power sometimes then when the temp comes back to 80 degrees then it's fast again.
Second is starting problem. I noticed when it's hot and I parked it for a bit then try to start it again it won't start. It'll keep turning over and over again. Finally when it starts it starts misfiring and engine light starts flashing. Then I drive 2 meters then restart it then it's fine 100%.
Please help me. Thanks in advance.
Second is starting problem. I noticed when it's hot and I parked it for a bit then try to start it again it won't start. It'll keep turning over and over again. Finally when it starts it starts misfiring and engine light starts flashing. Then I drive 2 meters then restart it then it's fine 100%.
Please help me. Thanks in advance.
might be the crank sensor with the starting problem...when the car cools off it starts so could be the sensor.
MBWorld Fanatic!
IC pump is bad if you're losing power and seeing temp spikes like that.
Quote:
does the ic pump turn the engine coolant through the block? i thought this was done by the water pump and broken ic pump would not effect engine coolant temp- only air intake temp.Originally Posted by saintz
IC pump is bad if you're losing power and seeing temp spikes like that.
the crank sensor will manifest itself with sudden engine stall as you are driving and inability to start for few minutes until the cpc cools off.
my guess is coil pack(s)
MBWorld Fanatic!
I'm actually not sure where the temp sensor is in the coolant flow, and if it's closer to the IC or the thermostat or where. The IC pump and water pump basically circulate the same coolant, the question is just where.
If you do an OBDII scan (auto parts store will do it for free) you might have a code. Coil packs should throw a misfire code. IC pump won't throw a code, but there might be some type of over-temp code thrown somewhere.
There is a way to test the IC pump, by testing the bleed valve above the IC while the engine is running. If coolant comes out, pump is good. If not, pump is bad. I suppose the water pump could be bad, too, which may have similar symptoms.
If you do an OBDII scan (auto parts store will do it for free) you might have a code. Coil packs should throw a misfire code. IC pump won't throw a code, but there might be some type of over-temp code thrown somewhere.
There is a way to test the IC pump, by testing the bleed valve above the IC while the engine is running. If coolant comes out, pump is good. If not, pump is bad. I suppose the water pump could be bad, too, which may have similar symptoms.
Banned
Sathinas
Banned
close
Sep 6, 2025
- Join DateMay 2010
- Posts:1,209
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
- Vehicle(s) I driveS65
-
Likes:325
-
Liked:188 Times in 139 Posts
Quote:
AgreedOriginally Posted by saintz
IC pump is bad if you're losing power and seeing temp spikes like that.
Quote:
The Engine coolant is on a separate circuit than the intercooler coolant. The two coolant systems don't come in contact with each other. This is why the IC system needs it's own pump. Originally Posted by saintz
I'm actually not sure where the temp sensor is in the coolant flow, and if it's closer to the IC or the thermostat or where. The IC pump and water pump basically circulate the same coolant, the question is just where.
Quote:
If you do an OBDII scan (auto parts store will do it for free) you might have a code. Coil packs should throw a misfire code. IC pump won't throw a code, but there might be some type of over-temp code thrown somewhere.
Correct, the IC pump won't throw a code unless it's not functioning. If it's merely failing, then no code. If you do an OBDII scan (auto parts store will do it for free) you might have a code. Coil packs should throw a misfire code. IC pump won't throw a code, but there might be some type of over-temp code thrown somewhere.
Also, OP might want to check intercooler coolant level. If it's never been flushed, it wouldn't hurt to flush it as well.
Quote:
There is a way to test the IC pump, by testing the bleed valve above the IC while the engine is running. If coolant comes out, pump is good. If not, pump is bad. I suppose the water pump could be bad, too, which may have similar symptoms.
Problem is, when you test it that way, you're actually introducing air into the system via the back cap. The easiest way to test and see if the IC pump is running is to make a simple jumper wire, take out the IC pump relay and use the jumper wire to jump the pump. As the engine doesn't need to be running for this jumper test, you should be able to easily hear the pump. If all else fails, with the engine running, touch the IC pump and feel if it is vibrating. Just don't get your fingers caught in the accessory belt. It may smart. There is a way to test the IC pump, by testing the bleed valve above the IC while the engine is running. If coolant comes out, pump is good. If not, pump is bad. I suppose the water pump could be bad, too, which may have similar symptoms.
Here are some jumper pics for you: Test the pump with key in RUN position (do no turn to start).
MBWorld Fanatic!
Sounds like you have a bad Coil pack. Misfires in these cars are common. Mines used to misfire, I would turn the key over and restart it and it would be fine until I started to get on it again.
