OK. I am really getting a bit annoyed at this point. This will be the third time since June I have had to have my 2003 CL 55 AMG towed into the shop. The second for this issue. After supposedly having it fixed it happened again.

After not driving the car for three days. I drove it about one mile to the store and then one mile back home. This morning I decided, mostly because it had gas in it and my other two cars did not, that I would take it to work. It was 34 degrees outside in sunny California when I began to drive away from my house. I made it about 3/4 of a mile on to a very busy street when my gas pedal went limp. I got a check engine light and on my DIC I got "1 Malfunction" "Distronic" "ESP Visit workshop" all white. car will not accelerate I idled back home through a neighborhood and parked. I let the car warm up restarted it and same thing no throttle response and a strange idle. the Malfunctions still exist.

Two weeks ago the same thing happened but it was right after I started the car. I was in a parking lot the day after thanksgiving and because the shop was closed I had to have the car towed home. After the car sat in the driveway for 3days I went to back it out into the street to make it easier to load onto the truck. When I did this all the codes were gone and the car drove fine so I drove it to the shop. They found transmission fluid in the electrical box under the hood near the passenger side apparently from "wicking" So we figured it was a short caused by that because they could not duplicate the fault. Did a A service, transmission service, replaced sensor and wire causing "wicking".

Just for reference here is a list of things that have happened to the car since I bought it in June

Day 2 of ownership. ABC failed (Hydraulic line and accumulators)
A few weeks later huge nail in rear right tire (Replaced rear tires)
Early August Distronic / ESP visit work shop (restarted the car)
End of November Distronic / ESP visit work shop (car went to work shop)
December 8 Distronic / ESP visit work shop.

How do I fix this besides throwing a few thousands more dollars at the problem?

 

Sorry cant help you diagnose i have Parktronic that works fine.

Did you a mb pdi performed or run a true service history based on the VIN before purchase? Many original buyers only do the a b services and then bail on the car. They cant afford it they should have a Civic. Their eyes are bigger than their stomach. Perhaps you are the victim of such a common tale?

 

I just went outside and the following happened.

I turned the car on problem still existed. I turned the wheel to it's locks four times each way. I let the car run for five min. I shut the car off. I turned the car back on and it died. I turned the car back on. I pushed the pedal to wide open throttle twice ten seconds apart. The tachometer showed a 200 rpm increase. after this it began to idle very rough and made what I would describe as popping sound from the exhaust. I let it run like this for five min.

I turned the car off and took the key out. I put the key back in and turned the key to accessory. all malfunctions were cleared. I turned the car back on about 40 seconds into its warm up cycle the malfunction returned. I repeated this three times with the same result.

I am starting to believe that my throttle body is not opening when I press the gas pedal. But I am not sure yet.

 

I bought the car from a private party and I had him drive it up her to Roseville from LA. I drove it pretty hard during the test drive and everything worked. After ABC blew up I had the shop check it out bumper to bumper. They came up with flex discs, radiator hoses, belts, Rear axle and front suspension parts.

The guy I bought the car from was a huge douche He had a faux Hawk and was wearing a pink shirt with the collar popped. He looked like Kumar and Niel Patrick Harris' love child. I should have known better.

 

Khan,

Throttle body is going bad, I replaced mine with a bigger one. Needs adaption via STAR or you can do it manually there are some instructions somewhere on here.

Also connected to your TB is your TPS. It's going bad. I'm on my 3rd TPS. TPS is built on the accelerator and will need to be replaced. Easy 2 min replacement. Also needs adaption. New TPS has a updated part number where the 00 is changed to 01. Not sure why.

 

Check engine light? Did you read the codes? Get someone with STAR. If both ESP and Distronic systems affected, sounds like abs wheel speed sensor... If throttle seems weak maybe air intake or vacuum leak?

 

Throttle doesn't seem weak it seems non existent. Idle only. I will check the wheel speed sensor though. I am starting to lean toward the throttle body. It makes the most sense to me.

 

The diagnostic codes will give you a more definitive answer. You can at least get a generic OBDII code reader from harbor freight for ~$60

 

Ive got a pretty good one but it's at my friends house and he is on contract with the state department in Basra. So I need to go through his fiance and she is pain in the ***.

 

To paraphrase Wilde,
A life filled with incident!
Seriously, try www.mymercedesparts.com

Enter your VIN and Jay will fix you up with latest updated genuine MB parts. Mention the forum. All these guys have given you good suggestions as to cause. If you search on the CL55 forum you'll see all the factory bulletins posted.

Good luck. That love child business was very droll and in good spirits

 

i had a similar intermittent problem. changed throttle body and accelerator pedal and so far all good. diagnosed by mercedes and my feedback.

 

"Life is far too important a thing ever to talk seriously about"
- Oscar Wilde

 

I went to MB of Rocklin and the parts guy didn't have any idea what the hell I was talking about. He couldn't even find the TB on the diagram. Can you help me witht he part number for a 03 CL55 TPS?

 

it appears you enjoy throwing money towards an unconfirmed faults based on internet posts. more power to ya.

however, if you would like to retain your sanity do read the codes off your car
and post here.

 

I will be able to pick up the code reader tonight. Because I didn't want to wait until tonight I decided that I would begin to diagnose what I thought was wrong. Because I believe the throttle is not opening, I planned on unplugging the TB and starting the car. If things were different than before I would plug it back it and unplug the pedal assembly and see what happened. Being as it is, the throttle body is the easiest to unplug so that's why I started there.

After clearing the codes by turning the key to accessory, I removed the key, unplugged the throttle body and started the car. Same exact failure. So I turned the car off, plugged the TB back in and started the car. It works fine now. I just drove it around a city block as if nothing was ever wrong with it.

This makes me pretty happy. At least I have a real good idea what is wrong and how to fix it.

 

Or like my self and biker stated, we know the problem already. Cut him a brake would you?


kahn, 220 300 01 04 for the TPS and if I recalled correctly it's around $300. The TB is around $1200. Start with the TPS first.

I just can't understand what kind of a parts department doesn't know what a throttle body and a throttle position sensor is

disconnect the battery while installing these parts.

After the TPS has been installed follow this procedure: (by tbal)

. Put tb on and reset the ecu with a scan tool.Dont start the car yet!
2. Go over to the throttle body and unhook the cable going to it.
3. Turn ignition key to the stage right before the car turns on. (position 2)You should get a error on the dash. (ESP Visit Workshop) wait 20 seconds and then turn the key to the first position not 0. leaving key intact.
4. Plug the cable back in.
5. Now go put the key to the stage right before the car starts and wait 3 min,the car will re adapt the throttle body and you will hear it move on its on. While this is going on, put everything back together!
6. Start car from position 2, and everything should be okay, tap gas peddle, rpm should drop normally, if they get stuck, or if you have a CEL, you did NOT do the reset correctly!

 

$300 for a gas pedal? Man you are getting ripped off. It's $130 + s/h from the dealer. Try vipgermanparts.com or parts.com. Better yet though, read the codes!!