Switta

So I replaced the accumulator on the relief valve ( one behind right front wheel )
And flushed the system with engine running by taking the return line to the resivor in a bucket and added new fluid till it was good an clean . I kept the resivor filled and did not suck any air into the system then put new filters in and made sure all levels were good .
Went for a nice long drive and parked it in the garage , come back out about an hour later and the whole right side of the car had dropped and there was no fluid on the floor from a leak ?
My first thought is I loosened up some debrie and it got stuck in the valve blocks front or rear ? Start it up push the button on the dash and it raises right back up . Have not went out to check it again but there is definitely a problem now . Why would the whole right side drop and not just front or back ? I'm thinking I will pull the valve blocks out and rebuild them ? Any thoughts or tips ?

Thanks
Dave

nidyanazo

What errors is the STAR system giving you?

awiner

That would be my guess to....

nidyanazo

Unfortunately Dave I hate to say it but it sounds like your car may have been priced low for a reason.. Looking at your post history I'm seeing a lot of issues coming up that should be non existent.. And to be honest, without the proper tools and training, there is a very real possibility of causing expensive damage to the delicate ABC system. Your best bet is to take the car into a MB dealers / certified indy shop and have it diagnosed. I'd stop messing with it right now if I were you. I'd hate to see you cause a catastrophic ABC system failure rendering the car useless..

Switta

Thanks for the reply nidyanazo but i will never let my dealer touch it .
i understand how touchy this system is and have no problem working on it myself .
i will have my star system this week to pull codes .
i remember when i was considering installing a BMW m-70 v-12 in my lambo replica and many people told me no way it will work ! well i proved them wrong and did it using the existing bmw engine management system and making my own adapter plate for the Audi transmission and even made my own axles from scratch .
it ran flawless and still does to this day .
i am not scared of this car at all ! sure i may come and ask questions but that's what forms are for to help and share , the way people take it is up to them .
just because I'm a newbie doesn't mean i don't know what I'm doing ? well maybe .. LOL but that's why I'm here to LEARN not to get told to take my car to the dealer . don't take this the wrong way I'm not getting on you at all just saying i can handle it . just trying to learn and build my knowledge of this car .
pics of the lambo build are in the off topic section .

nidyanazo

Cool lambo rep! I bet it is a real smooth car with that motor. I had an e38, and was contemplating going with the 750iL v12 LWB, but like when buying the w215 (cl600/65 or cl55), I went with the slightly lighter, sportier handling 740i swb Sport.
I'd love to see more pics of the lambo, maybe post them in the off topic section...

Anyway I figured since you didn't have the star system, and couldn't perform the rodeo test or use and diagnostic features, it's best not to mess with the ABC system... I'm sure others will agree: If you're going to do work on it yourself, you MUST at least have the tools for the job!! Otherwise you're just asking for trouble in my opinion.

Good luck!

nidyanazo

This guy fixed the same problem you're having


Here's the rodeo test in action. FYI I'm not endorsing this guys products or anything like that. I've never bought anything from that company.

Switta

Agree right tools for the job make all the difference . i know the star is a must if i plan on doing the work on this car and i should have it this week then i have to learn how to run it before i even think about hooking it up to the car .
thanks for the links and i did post some pictures of the lambo in general section .

Dave

nidyanazo

Cool dude, and here's another, better video showing the rodeo test and line pressures..

Switta

wondering also if it could be air trapped in the system ?
when i changed the accumulator only a few drops came out of the valve but after setting the old accumulator on the bench a small amount of fluid kept seeping out of it .
to my understanding there should not be any fluid in the accumulator .

Dave

alx

Rodeo car. See if problem persists.

Mercedes siezed to recommend abc flush about 5 years ago precisely for the same reason- debrees get loose and get stuck in various places they should not- namely valve blocks and shocks. Mercedes now recommends only filtering thr fluid.

If problem still presented after a rodeo - pay attention really which corner sags. Normally one corner sags and the whole side follows. Once you know the corner it is usually that valve block (front or back- front controls front pebel, read- rear level). Remove, clean, replace o-rings and reinstall.

Switta

ya i read about that not to flush and just do filters but the fluid was black !
stupid me o well live and learn .
left it all night and it didn't lower way down like it did last night after i drove it but it seams to be the right rear .
i will run the rodeo this week and see what happens after that ?

Dave

awiner

If after a full two rodeos, without any codes being stored, your only path would be to either remove and replace or remove and disassemble, clean, remove/replace o-rings, reinstall valve block.

Search as there is a good write up in these forums for disassembly and cleaning as well as the specs for the o-rings needed.

Switta

not dropping anymore , fluid was a bit low so i topped it off raised the car with button on the dash about 10 times let is set the last two days at the highest level and has not dropped at all .
still have an error message i need to pull codes and see what that is all about but i am leaning now towards something was stuck in one of the valve blocks or it was just air in the system from changing the accumulator .

Dave

nidyanazo

You should change your pump filter to the newer one.. So if you did accidentally dislodge dirt, at least the filter will have a good chance of catching it.

Switta

yup i did change the filter to the new one and also did the PS one at the same time .
think it's worth changing out the ABC filter again after a couple hundred miles ? i did buy two thinking of doing that later .

Thanks for the reply nidyanazo

Dave

Switta

Ran DAS today and got a small case -f- fault code , it was a stored code I got before I did the flush . Have not got any abc warnings on dash since flush .
Fault said ( right rear suspension strut moves although locking valve is closed )
Leads me to believe it was a sticking solenoid on rear valve block , cleared code and it has not come back .

Dave

alx

correct. that particular error is typical when valve block or shock is leaking.

if you inspect the shock and you dont see fluid oozing or dripping - it is the valve block.

norpcom

I'm about to replace this same accumulator (2203270215). So I put the car on ramps and got all the belly covers off. I found that the wrench fitting is 25MM. Can someone confirm this? However when I went to take it off, it seems you have to have something else to hold the valve while you torque on that fitting so as not to damage the bracket or the lines. What is the best way to replace this puppy? What nm should I retighten the new accumulator?

any help would be appreciated.

XZACM102

Hi guys,

I'm about to change accumulators on my car. I was thinking to do a full ABC flush at the same time but based on what I'm reading above it looks like it's not recommended ?
Should I request to have just the accumulators and filter changed ?
By any chance would anyone have part # for these parts ? Not sure exactly how many accumulators and filters are part of ABC system.

Many thanks !

norpcom

Here are the three part numbers I have but I believe there are 4 accumulators.

#190 (needed 2) have Part-Nr: 220 327 01 15 and is called "Air reservoir"
#185 (needed 1) have Part-Nr: 220 327 04 15 and is called "Air cell
#410 (needed 1) have Part-Nr: 220 327 02 15 and is called "Pressure accumulator "

However I've been told that the 0215 one is the most critical since it "takes one for the team"

In regards to filters, here is what I have:

3 micron filter for ABC: 003-184-61-01
PS Filter: 002-184-55-01

Again, these part numbers are for a 2004 CL600.

XZACM102

Thanks !

speedracer58

You can find your part #'s here. http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/parts.jsp You must put a credit card # its no charge. Its mercedes website. It take a little trial and error to figure how to use it.

grane

Is it possible to drain the ABC fluid, replace the filter, replace the fluid, and do the rodeo test WITHOUT doing a pressurized flush?

I spoke to a MB tech who does not recommend an ABC flush but says there is a way to drain the fluid from system and replace it. The best I could understand is that since the fluid is under pressure one can drain it from several drain points in the front and rear of the system. Is this true?

If it is true, how does one replace the fluid except under external pressure? Wouldn't this have the same problems, eg., stirring up goop, as the flush to drain- flush to fill? One also wants to avoid ABC pumps running without fluid, etc.

Any help would be appreciated.


FYI: The car is a 05 CL55 garage kept with about 52k miles owned by me since new. I drive in good weather year round long distances only. I replace the ABC filter every spring. The Pentosin appears to be its light green color. I use Racing Brakes 2 piece disks on all 4 wheels that reduce unsprung weight 30% (compared to the AMG rotors) at each wheel reducing strain on the ABC system.

Welwynnick

If you drain the fluid, THEN replace the fluid, you need to do a pressurized flush. Meaning that you have to force the fluid into the pump. The pump doesn't self-prime, even when the reservoir is full, so you have to pressurize the reservoir.

Alternatively, you can simply connect a drain pipe to the return pipe (top of the ABC reservoir) and start the engine - keeping the reservoir filled up!

I found another alternative: I could prime an empty pump by removing the poly-V belt and turn the pump pulley by hand until it firms up.

However, all those processes only replace the oil in the "clean" part of the system - where the oil circulates continuously. Downstream of the valves (in the pipes from the valves to the struts, and in the struts themselves) the oil doesn't circulate, and gets very dirty. Flushing doesn't clean this, but you can drain it using the drain ports in the pipes to each strut. That takes some explaining - you gotta know what you're doing.


To drain the old oil out of the struts and feed pipes, you need to:

• Jack up the front of the car and support on stands.
• Open the drain valve and drain the oil using a clear plastic 8mm pipe into a bucket.
• Do this carefully, using one ring spanner on the bleed nipple and one ring spanner on the valve body.
• Jack up the suspension arm using a trolley jack, until it just takes the weight of the car.
• This forces almost all of the fluid out of the strut.
• Close the drain valves and drop the car back down without starting the engine.
• Its best to use the car's jack for this, as the car ends up on the floor.
• Repeat the above process for the rear end.
• Top up the ABC reservoir, start the engine, and keep the reservoir topped-up.
• Run a rodeo or cycle the suspension height several times.

Nick