CL55
-Chris

E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
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-Chris
Do all that and your car should do ok until you start to get the first ABC warnings and then you can just change out the parts with that savings. Make sure all this work is done at a good mercedes indepandant repair shop dont use the dealer as you will get screwed on pricing.
Enjoy your car! Ohh see if its had all its recalls done including the dashboard if applicable and some ABC hoses if applicable.
30 minutes with some electrical tape and a soldering gun/quick splice connectors will fix it up.
Last edited by Htom_Sirveaux; Jun 29, 2013 at 10:54 AM. Reason: typo: taught->taut
The boot that the wires run through between the body and the door can be pulled away from the door and body to reveal three cabling harnesses. Two are tall and flat, and one is round and shorter. The shorter round one holds the speaker wires.
Feel along the speaker wire harness and you should be able to feel where the wires have broken. Then carefully slice open the harness lengthwise to reveal the speaker wire ends. Mine were separated by about six inches of empty space.
Once you have both ends of all the wires exposed, it's just a matter of tedious splicing between all of them. I don't know if I even could have spliced the original ends together. I didn't try, but rather added about six inches of speaker wire in between to give it some slack, as I think the fact that the wires are too taut at assembly is one of the reasons they all do this eventually.
Stuff everything back into the wrapper tube, reconnect the boot to the door and the body, and you're good.
I've had my CL55 for about 3 years and i'v spent around $4,200 in non-expendable repairs including ABC pump, ABC line and Radiator none of which were anywhere near as expensive as i thought they would be based on the horror stories i read before i bought the car
I bought my car with around 79K on the odo and now have around 148K on it
Since the car you're looking at has under 60K you should be able to get an extended warranty which might be a good investment, should cost around $3K which the dealer/seller should be able to bundle into the loan price for you
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The boot that the wires run through between the body and the door can be pulled away from the door and body to reveal three cabling harnesses. Two are tall and flat, and one is round and shorter. The shorter round one holds the speaker wires.
Feel along the speaker wire harness and you should be able to feel where the wires have broken. Then carefully slice open the harness lengthwise to reveal the speaker wire ends. Mine were separated by about six inches of empty space.
Once you have both ends of all the wires exposed, it's just a matter of tedious splicing between all of them. I don't know if I even could have spliced the original ends together. I didn't try, but rather added about six inches of speaker wire in between to give it some slack, as I think the fact that the wires are too taut at assembly is one of the reasons they all do this eventually.
Stuff everything back into the wrapper tube, reconnect the boot to the door and the body, and you're good.





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