Edmunds Buys '05 CL65 Long-Term Tester
http://www.edmunds.com/mercedes-benz...d-my-mind.html
http://www.edmunds.com/mercedes-benz...d-my-mind.html
http://www.edmunds.com/mercedes-benz...d-my-mind.html
The steering wheel feels like it was borrowed from a school bus
The engine revs low, like an old-school big-block pushrod engine
It's too bad it's backed by such a mushy, syrupy automatic gearbox that saps out any snappiness this engine might have.
http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/t...no-tested.html
Very resistant to heat soak, too -- run after run, power kept creeping up.
After ten pulls it still hadn't nosed over, but it had finally stabilized to the
values you see above.
The comments on heat soak are interesting, as it suggests that owner's perceptions of limitations in the IC system may be down to maintenance rather than any design inadequacy.
Nick
From 50-65k miles I have experienced replacing Engine Mounts, Coil Packs, 3 Struts, ABC Pump, Front Valve Block. These are almost always expected, everything else on these cars are pretty solid as long as regular maintenance is performed

Another owner out of business.
http://www.edmunds.com/mercedes-benz...erm-road-test/
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
HPE hose
both pieces of the main pressure hose
3 additional hoses
all 4 air cells
flushed my ABC system
replaced an idler pulley
had my A/C system recharged
And I have 5 liters of Petosin left over.
For what they paid to slap a set of pads on the rear I replaced pads & rotors.
It cost me about $900 less to replace my plugs than it cost them and took me about 3 hours. That was taking my time and fixing a few other things I found the dealer who worked on my car before had screwed up.
Basically, if you can do your own repairs these cars are still expensive to own and time consuming, but worth it IMO. Paying a dealership to maintain them would be insane.
HPE hose
both pieces of the main pressure hose
3 additional hoses
all 4 air cells
flushed my ABC system
replaced an idler pulley
had my A/C system recharged
And I have 5 liters of Petosin left over.
For what they paid to slap a set of pads on the rear I replaced pads & rotors.
It cost me about $900 less to replace my plugs than it cost them and took me about 3 hours. That was taking my time and fixing a few other things I found the dealer who worked on my car before had screwed up.
Basically, if you can do your own repairs these cars are still expensive to own and time consuming, but worth it IMO. Paying a dealership to maintain them would be insane.
Ask a dealer for new coils and plugs and you'll spend enough to buy a used Camry. Do it yourself for $1500.
If they bought a 2005 Ferrari or Porsche they wouldn't be surprised at any of the repair costs but because this car can be had for $30k they think it should be fixable on the cheap?
My brother's 05 hasn't needed squat: it had a trans seal leak fixed by the dealer for $300ish and we've installed new coils and ignition module for maybe $2k. The instrument cluster backlight went out last week but is still covered under the longer warranty so that's a $0 fix with a brand new part. Oh, and while it was still under the CPO coverage it got a new idler pulley. When it goes out again we'll go with billet.
Oops, forgot one -- it also got a new battery sometime last year. All said, I don't think that's bad at all for 10 years in what was the highest horsepower car sold at the time. It isn't a DD, with like 42k miles on the clock today.
I'll snag a v12 for myself eventually -- probably a plain-looking S600 creampuff, and I'll wrench for myself whenever possible!




I've wrenched my own cars for the past 20+ years. No, I'm not a professional mechanic - I'm an IT guy. I've just lived by the philosophy that if someone else can learn to do something, I can too. Coil pack & plug changes are easy in this car. It's no more of a PITA than doing the same job in my Lincoln Continental -- which also needed coil packs last year, albeit for a much lower cost (Ford parts are $200 x 8 btw, but of course I went aftermarket).
If you've got to pay someone to do every repair on your car you should get a new one every 3-4 years. That's for any car. What other car in this category needs just gas and oil changes for a decade? Not one!
I caught the idler pulley before it failed. It was leaking grease/oil and it was an obvious issue. The closest dealer is 30 miles away.
So yes. $3k in repairs after 8 years (on a 10 year old car) is nothing at all on a car that was $190k new and just under $100k as a used CPO purchase. That's less than the sales tax amount!




So few things on these cars fail as a result of mileage; most of it is due to old age. Coil packs & ignition transformers quit because of old electrical components within. ABC hoses fail because the rubber is old. Vacuum-powered items inside the car fail due to old cracked hoses.
The cluster was known to fail early and MB increased the warranty to 10 years. It's also a $50 repair if you DIY, so it's not a lost cause either way. If you pay them $2300 for a new unit that's your business!
Anyone with a car older than 5 years should maintain it proactively. Trying to do it reactively will mean constantly chasing failures rather than doing it on your schedule. This car is just getting warmed up. Soon it'll get a tune just to make it interesting, and to keep up with today's cars. Nothing else makes effortless power like the ol' v12 so it isn't going anywhere!




https://mbworld.org/articles/edmunds...ght-hilarious/




