HELP THIS BMW 740iL GUY MAKE THE SWITCH TO A CL65
Is there a "BEST CL65" year to look at? Is the 2006 much less troublesome than the 2005 for any reason? Is there an engine model I should really avoid?
I would GREATLY appreciate your input on which used CL65 I should focus on.
In return, I will keep you all posted as to my switching progress.
Thank you!
The W216 is more reliable, but the 215 looks better to me and is a lot less expensive. No matter how good your luck with a CL65 is, there are going to be days it is down for repairs. I would be a little worried if it was my sole form of transportation as there are times parts take time to get to you from Germany.
That being said, when they are operating correctly, they are awesome. Quicker than the Z06 with the luxury of your BMW, a hard combination to beat IMO. Good luck!
The 215 and 216 look identical to me but maybe I'm looking at the wrong images.
What is the difference between the two that makes the 216 more reliable?
The 216 does not seem to be too much more expensive than the 215 - just one extra year of depreciation for the 215.
Thank you for your replies!
Are there any differences between the 05 and 06 215's? (I'm trying my best to research this but I'm having a hard time finding info on the changes between model years)
My goal here is to do my very best at minimizing the variables that can affect my enjoyment of the car.
If the 206 was known to be much more reliable for some reason, I'd pay the extra $$.
In 2007, I bought a used but pristine 2000 BMW 740iL with 60,000 miles on it, at a much reduced rate, with the plan from the very start that I'd put a coupe hundred dollars into a "Maintenance Fund" each month ... and sure enough, there was never a cheap fix, and I spent pretty well what I was socking away. But the car has never let me down (knock on wood) and I still love to drive it each and every day. I knew going into the deal what the major exposures were (to this day my Nav system does not work, the stereo is quirky as hell, and I replace window actuators annually). But I set my expectations properly, and so I've been a very happy guy with all the potential and real issues lurking about.
I take it everywhere ... short drives, long drives, kids ... I'm never worried about breaking down somewhere.
I treat my cars well, I don't race them, get regular preventive maintenance done, will gun it now and then on the highway.
What I don't do is fix auto things myself. I would LOVE to be able to do so, but I am REALLY REALLY bad at it. I admire all of those owners out there that are able to take apart, repair, and then put back together a solution to make their baby better than ever ... I simply cause more damage. I AM very fortunate that I know how to make money (thank God). So I focus my talents on that part of my life, to enable me to enjoy the relationships and toys I surround myself with (mostly my family and friends relationships and some great toys).
So I am mentally and financially experienced to own a used beautiful luxury car that is 10+ years old and deal with the headaches that come along with the joy.
That being said, of all the cars I have researched, the 2005/6 CL65AMG seems like the perfect replacement to my Vette / BMW cars I own ... IF there's not a high chance its going to leave me stranded, or be in for repairs every month.
And so I look for guidance and feedback from you guys - what should I expect owning one of these beautiful works of art?
Will the ABC issue be a constant threat, even if it has been repaired? Will window issues, coils, spark plugs etc etc be the death of me?
I can take a lot of pain - just looking to see what you guys think that threshold is.
And thank you again for all your feedback - VERY HELPFUL!!
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If you can get a service history you can see if the ABC has been flushed, if the HPE hose was replaced after 2008 when the updated hose came out, etc. The smart thing to do is replace all possible problem parts either before, if, or when it fails so you are not doing repairs to the ABC again and again.
When I got my car@ 41,000 miles & 8 years old, the ABC system was fine, but it had never been touched other than replacing the HPE in 2007. I replaced the filter, flushed it and inspected everything and all looked good except it was low on fluid at the time I bought the car. A year and a half later, the HPE hose blew in my driveway. Great timing as I pulled into my garage and shut it off immediately. Rather than just replace that hose, I replaced all 4 of the pulsation dampners and every hose that didn't look perfect (6 of them) and flushed the system again. I'm kind of **** about maintainance so I look at all the hoses a couple time a year I am optimistic that I can drive without worry for a long time.
If you can't work on it yourself you absolutely need a good shop who knows CL's or you are going to get soaked on repairs like Edmunds.com did with their CL65.
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Do not expect this to be a low maintenance car. I've owned a bunch of cars and this one takes the cake. It's, by far, the most expensive car to maintain/repair than I've ever owned. Go in with both eyes open.
Good luck on your quest.
Last edited by fireman685; Apr 12, 2015 at 06:27 AM.
If you're not handy with a wrench or "know a guy" find a good honest Indy shop and you'll be fine
Good luck
2003 zo6: 383ci +bolt ons(11.1@123) VS 2005 cl65: tune only(11.5@121)....
Check out this video on YouTube:<br/><br/>
2003 zo6: heads,cam,intake,gears,bolt ons & 150 shot nitrous(traps 129mph)
VS
2005 cl65: k&n filters, exhaust, tune(traps 125mph)
50- 155mph....
Check out this video on YouTube:<br/><br/>
Last edited by 02cl55amg; Apr 13, 2015 at 05:44 AM.
Last edited by V12Godspeed; Apr 13, 2015 at 10:24 AM.
If you can get a service history you can see if the ABC has been flushed, if the HPE hose was replaced after 2008 when the updated hose came out, etc. The smart thing to do is replace all possible problem parts either before, if, or when it fails so you are not doing repairs to the ABC again and again.
When I got my car@ 41,000 miles & 8 years old, the ABC system was fine, but it had never been touched other than replacing the HPE in 2007. I replaced the filter, flushed it and inspected everything and all looked good except it was low on fluid at the time I bought the car. A year and a half later, the HPE hose blew in my driveway. Great timing as I pulled into my garage and shut it off immediately. Rather than just replace that hose, I replaced all 4 of the pulsation dampners and every hose that didn't look perfect (6 of them) and flushed the system again. I'm kind of **** about maintainance so I look at all the hoses a couple time a year I am optimistic that I can drive without worry for a long time.
If you can't work on it yourself you absolutely need a good shop who knows CL's or you are going to get soaked on repairs like Edmunds.com did with their CL65.
1. Confirm if HPE hose has been replaced since 2008 - if not replace with upgraded hose.
2. Replace all 4 pulsation dampers and possibly all hoses (6)
3. Flush the ABC system
4. ID when or if coils have been replaced with upgraded parts - if not - replace
5. ID last change of plugs - if over 50,000 miles and not done - replace
3 QUESTIONS
1 - Anything else I should add to this list?
2 - Rough idea on what to expect for cost to pay a good indy guy to do all of the above?
3 - I put aside about $300 a month for the 2000 740iL for maintenance. Is that enough for the CL65?
Thanks again guys - awesome insight!
Guys - the info you are all providing is incredibly helpful. Its like a map to the minefield of Mercedes Purchasing.
Thank you - and if you have additional tips, please pass it along.
$300 a month might be enough if everything is good when you start.
Ideally your best guess on a per line basis would be great!
1. Replace HPE Hose
2. Replace 4 pulsation dampers
3. Replace several hoses (vague I know)
4. Flush ABC system
5. Replace Plugs
6. Replace Coils
7. Replace Brakes
2-Pulsation damners $12-1300
3-Miscellaneous hoses? Well the two piece hose I replaced from the pump to the first distribution block costs over $700 at my discounted price, requires evacuating the A/C system because the main A/C hose has to be disconnected from the compressor to change the ABC hose and the engine mounts have to be unbolted from the frame so the engine can be jacked up, which of course requires disconnecting a few other things.... so expect to pay at least $1200 for that hose alone. Edmunds had 1/2 of it replaced for $200 at a dealer so IMO it is dumb to only do 1/2 of it. Most of the others are easier and most of them can be fabricated by a local hydraulics shop for a fraction of the price of new MB hoses so say a hose can be as cheap as $50, just remember Petosin is around $20/ quart and every time you open up the system you are asking for new issues to crop up. ABC can go into the 5 digit price range easily.
4-Flush ABC when doing ABC repairs and it will only be an extra $1-200 or so.
5- 24plugs times $11-$20 per plug (depending on where you buy them plus a few hours of labor=$4-500
6-coils get them from Autozone and have them done with plugs so all you pay is the price for the coils so ONLY $1400
7-Bakes, if you need front rotors I have bad news for you.
That being said, if you can work on a car yourself as a comparison, I spent a little over $2000 to do 6 hoses, 4 pulsation dampners, new filter and flush the system. Plugs & one coil were under $1000. If you do more hoses/dampners/ flush at the same time the cost should be cheaper as the cost for labor should go down more is done together.
Last edited by Dr Matt; Apr 14, 2015 at 10:28 PM.
2-Pulsation damners $12-1300
3-Miscellaneous hoses? Well the two piece hose I replaced from the pump to the first distribution block costs over $700 at my discounted price, requires evacuating the A/C system because the main A/C hose has to be disconnected from the compressor to change the ABC hose and the engine mounts have to be unbolted from the frame so the engine can be jacked up, which of course requires disconnecting a few other things.... so expect to pay at least $1200 for that hose alone. Edmunds had 1/2 of it replaced for $200 at a dealer so IMO it is dumb to only do 1/2 of it. Most of the others are easier and most of them can be fabricated by a local hydraulics shop for a fraction of the price of new MB hoses so say a hose can be as cheap as $50, just remember Petosin is around $20/ quart and every time you open up the system you are asking for new issues to crop up. ABC can go into the 5 digit price range easily.
4-Flush ABC when doing ABC repairs and it will only be an extra $1-200 or so.
5- 24plugs times $11-$20 per plug (depending on where you buy them plus a few hours of labor=$4-500
6-coils get them from Autozone and have them done with plugs so all you pay is the price for the coils so ONLY $1400
7-Bakes, if you need front rotors I have bad news for you.
That being said, if you can work on a car yourself as a comparison, I spent a little over $2000 to do 6 hoses, 4 pulsation dampners, new filter and flush the system. Plugs & one coil were under $1000. If you do more hoses/dampners/ flush at the same time the cost should be cheaper as the cost for labor should go down more is done together.
I don't consider costs bad or good - they are just a reality of owning a vehicle. My goal is to get my expectations set as properly as possible so I can best plan for the inevitable costs. I realize that the chances of having a major breakdown with a huge expense to repair is simply the price one has to pay to enjoy a car such as a 2005 CL65. I KNOW this is going to happen someday ... so my plan is to do what ever I can to minimize those chances. After all the feedback, this is my preliminary strategy (and I am hoping you guys can poke holes into it) :
1. Find 2005 or 2006 CL65 AMG cars for sale (assuming mileage to be less than 50,000)
2. ID if HPE hose and Pulsation Dampners have been replaced - if not, add $500 for Hose, $1300 for Dampners, $2,000 for other hoses (including jacking the motor up) = Round up to $5,000
3. ID if plugs have been replaced - if not, add in $1,000
4. ID if Coils have been replaced - if not, add in $1400
5. ID state of tires - % of tread used x $1600
6. ID state of brakes - % used x ? (need to id brake costs)
Take sales price of each vehicle and do the math from above (each one will be different requiring varying degrees of repair)
Assuming the pricing above is accurate (I am just going by the feedback from this post - so if you see where I am off, let me know) -
Min and Max initial investment would range from:
$0 if everything had just been replaced within the month, to
$9,000 + Brakes if everything was original but was at its very end of lifespan
ID the top 3 choices - and negotiate.
Assuming nothing has been done:
Immediately - replace HPE hose, and Dampners (preventative measure)
When mileage dictates - replace plugs, coils, brakes, tires
Continue to put $300 a month into a maintenance fund.
Maintain car and enjoy.
Thoughts?
It may be a lot cheaper than you plan which will be great, but if not at least you understand the potential costs associated with one of these cars. There are some other common issues, like engine/trans mounts, drivers door wiring, etc. You may have some of these issues or none of them.
IMO, if you are not stressed about the cost of maintenance & repairs, it's going to be really hard to find something as special to DD as a CL65.


