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Goodmorning! Ive been reading up alot on the cl55 and decided to take mine to the track the other night in Roswelle, NM
Yes, where the aliens landed lol
It was pretty cool they set up the drag strip on the old flightline so theres huge airplanes everywhere . Anyway i was expecting to run mid to high 13s ,
but the best i did was 14.4 seconds.
I was running these consistantly too!
Right between 97-99 mph on the 1/4
My motor had fresh mann paper air filters put in with the oil change last week, ( i found out it had k&ns installed previously but as they needed to be cleaned and i had 2 paper filters available i went with those for now)
The car is completely stock.
I did get heat soak after a couple runs, when i would turn the corner after wot i had no power for a few seconds, i expected this and will be working on cooling upgrades before anything else.
My qyestion is, is 14.4 what should be expected from a 2006 cl55 with no mods?
Or should i be trying to figure out whats wrong with this car?
It runs good, no misses , no noises, it seems to be perfect, except for the times, lol.
Im #33 on the tickets
Thanks !
Kenny G
Not sure what a CL 55 is supposed to run, but your 60' times are terrible. I'm sure you are on street tires and my guess is a no prep or minimally prepped track. Your car should 60' in under 2 seconds and as a general rule, every .1 you drop your 60' you will drop .2 in the 1/4. Also, boosted cars with stock or even tuned programming are very sensitive to IAT's. If your car didn't get the intake temps down before and through the run you can easily be off by .2-3 seconds from what the car is capable of.
On one hand I have to laugh on the other I feel for you.
The Dr. is correct (and has one baaaaad AMG)...
Poor 60' times will kill you. Stock you should run 12.6-12.7 @ 112-114.
I had a less than desirable trip to the strip a few weeks back and was mad as a snake. Previous (stock) E55 ran a 12.16 @ 115. My new one with 168 pulley, ECU, Headers, H/E and Engine bay tank ran a 12.39 @ 116. I went to the strip with full expectations of 11.9 (worst case). Well, a best 60' of 2.1 will do that!
Car is in for other mods. Back to you -- In the meantime, go hang on the E55 forum. More posts than you can imagine on all topics. Also, whatever the good Dr. tells you to do listen and listen good!
Right! I was running consecutively to it seems like she just didn't have anymore in her. Very disappointing lol
I never even broke 100 on the quarter mile..
Thanks for the compliments guys. Remember, not every day at the track or at the dyno is a good day. If your car didn't do what it should, well then it's time to do some research and find out why.
I've sai it before and I'll say it again, a critical piece of data is IAT's. If those temps are really high you are going to be way down on power. These are not like N/A cars in that respect. Do yourself a favor and get a Aeroforce interceptor gauge or something like it and see what your IAT's are and how much boost you are making, any time in real time. You can even watch your IAT and timing at the same time and see how high temps kill your timing curve. I saw a post in the E55 section earlier (so it must be true) that on the 55 cars an IAT of 95* drops 3* of timing, 115 drops 6* of timing, and of course it got worse as the temps go up.
You are on the right track by posting up info and asking questions, next you need data to figure out why it was slower than it should be.
Thanks for the compliments guys. Remember, not every day at the track or at the dyno is a good day. If your car didn't do what it should, well then it's time to do some research and find out why.
I've sai it before and I'll say it again, a critical piece of data is IAT's. If those temps are really high you are going to be way down on power. These are not like N/A cars in that respect. Do yourself a favor and get a Aeroforce interceptor gauge or something like it and see what your IAT's are and how much boost you are making, any time in real time. You can even watch your IAT and timing at the same time and see how high temps kill your timing curve. I saw a post in the E55 section earlier (so it must be true) that on the 55 cars an IAT of 95* drops 3* of timing, 115 drops 6* of timing, and of course it got worse as the temps go up.
You are on the right track by posting up info and asking questions, next you need data to figure out why it was slower than it should be.
Thanks!
I havent done alot of looking at gauges, i guess i should be!
I saw something on here the other day someone was using an app on their android phone that was wirelessly connected to the obdII port.
Do any of you guys have experience with these?
TORQUE i believe it was called.
I understand about losing power as my temps go up, but i had no idea there was a formula to retard timing as they increased.
You guys are very helpful, i appreciate it!
Kenny
Here is my gauge in my ash tray pocket. I have no experience with the torque app, but from what I have seen it is not instant, but a delayed response. For monitoring IAT's, a second of delay is irrelevant. I plan to add it to my setup with an OBD2 splitter cable once I do my sound system as it should play through my Pioneer NEX H/U.
FWIW, the red switch arms my line lock, the green switch puts my killer chiller in drag mode
Here is my gauge in my ash tray pocket. I have no experience with the torque app, but from what I have seen it is not instant, but a delayed response. For monitoring IAT's, a second of delay is irrelevant. I plan to add it to my setup with an OBD2 splitter cable once I do my sound system as it should play through my Pioneer NEX H/U.
FWIW, the red switch arms my line lock, the green switch puts my killer chiller in drag mode
Well i had no idea where i would put that gauge bit after seeing that i do Bellerive i will be copying you!! That looks sweet and the flush usbs make it Even better!
Ill have to post some pics up of my subs in the trunk.. ive got 2 jlw6 12s in a blow through box.
Second day i had the car i pulled the backseat and rear deck and removed the stock sub and the rear window shade and took a sawzall and cut a 12inx6 in square in the rear deck.
This is a partial culprit of slow times- about 300lbs i figure lol
I plan on taking them out this thursday before i go to the track in Hobbs on Friday.
For now i ordered the ELM327 mini bluetooth scanner-it will be here tomorrow by 5- gotta love amazon.
Kenny
I took my 2003 on a pretty hot day, with 19in street tires that were garbage, had to be very careful leaving... went 12.58, 12.54, and somehow went a 12.41... car was full weight, bone stock with the exception of a small ram air box I made. I have since built a custom dual 3.5" intake setup, put a better street tire on it, and did a pretty crazy cooling system... going back soon. I'd like to see a 12.2 with the new stuff.
Since I am getting a killer chiller I have to know what drag mode is? Also I assume you just fill he tank with ice when at the track?
Sorry, dont mean to hijack.
A Killer chiller uses your A/C system to cool the intake charge. No tank to throw ice in. It's a very different pre run routine than when using an ice tank for cooling.
When at the track, you normally ALWAYS turn off your A/C, because if you have it on, you get condensation on the evaporator core which drips on the track (this is why your car leaves a water puddle on the ground on hot humid days when you park it). If the line officials see your car dripping something on the track, they should shut you down and push you out of the staging lanes.
Since the Killer Chiller uses the A/C system to cool the intake charge, you can add the "drag kit", which is simply an electrically controlled valve that shuts off refrigerant from circulating through the cabin evaporator core. Therefore, you don't have any dripping on the the track, and the KC puts 100% of the A/C systems capacity into cooling the intake charge. I have actually had ice build up on my intercooler's in the staging lanes while my engine oil temp was over 200*. But I really work at keeping IAT's low.
I leave the engine cover off at the track. In the pits, I put a fan on top of the engine and another blowing on the radiator With the hood open and shaded for at least 30 minutes between passes whenever possible. When it's time to make a pass, I get to the staging lanes quickly, get the hood open and keep it open until I head for the water box, but I keep the car running at least 10-15 minutes before I actually make a pass so the KC can get the intercooler's ice cold before I run.
Interesting. I guess mine is a bit different because it uses the AC system but also allows me to drain the rear tank and fill it with ice. At least thats what Speedriven told me unless I missunderstood them.
Don't see how it could hurt! SoRT of how I was wondering about running the killer chiller type setup through the windshield washer heater tubes for extra cooling. I had lost all hope of being able to do this when they told me to make sure my air conditioner was off at the track last time. That is untill you just informed us about the bypass valve to stop condensation while still being able to have the ac on.
THAT IS AWESOME!
Now I think that will be my next cooling mod.
Thanks Matt, always some good info.
Kenny
Ps.. im buying a 2004 E55 amg this week �� for the girl haha 84k on the car from the same guy I got the cl55 from a couple months ago. Should be a fun baby hauler
Here is my gauge in my ash tray pocket. I have no experience with the torque app, but from what I have seen it is not instant, but a delayed response. For monitoring IAT's, a second of delay is irrelevant. I plan to add it to my setup with an OBD2 splitter cable once I do my sound system as it should play through my Pioneer NEX H/U.
FWIW, the red switch arms my line lock, the green switch puts my killer chiller in drag mode
old thread but ive been searching all over for something to replace my ashtray on my w215, something like what you have with USB and maybe a screen for readings. is this custom made or did you source this elsewhere??
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Slow drag times for my cl55 ?? 14.4s
