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Extremely well cared for and maintained at MB (poor guy...have the receipts!) Anyways, all stock 80K. Put her on the lift at my shop, leak free (for a few days at least...lol). MB did the accumulators/fluid recently so hopefully with the limited miles and heated garage she stays happy till end of Summer at least.
Pure Bliss to drive, my 06' E55 was a stud however the top end on this thing is insane. I know there needy however I am a wrench so I am up for future challenges and always coveted this model.
I like the factory wheels, I am however going to have my fab guy make catless dp's and would like some suggestions on giving her some more sound. Nothing obnoxious, would just love to hear the engine.
Once I get the dp's, I will tune her however I have no desire to run this car hard, no dig runs etc...I drove my friends w/ the EC tune and the throttle response is much better.
I like the factory wheels, I am however going to have my fab guy make catless dp's and would like some suggestions on giving her some more sound. Nothing obnoxious, would just love to hear the engine.
Once I get the dp's, I will tune her however I have no desire to run this car hard, no dig runs etc...I drove my friends w/ the EC tune and the throttle response is much better.
Congrats on the car, I just passed 11yrs of ownership, I still love it. It may not be current, and have all the technology of newer cars, but its a quiet ride and can hold its own with most from a roll. The catless downpipes will keep the same exhaust sound/tone but just much louder when you are WOT and on cold starts. Under normal driving, there is not much difference or drone. One thing to consider with the windows up its a very tight car well insulated. You'll find yourself watching the tach instead, if the windows are up and the radio is on, since you won't really hear the motor. One of the first things I always recommend, besides a tune is a limited slip diff. It allows you to put more power down with less wheel spin, but it will get sideways on you real quick, like any other car with a LSD. Good luck, enjoy.
Last edited by RaceHorse; Mar 8, 2020 at 04:09 PM.
Congrats on the car, I just passed 11yrs of ownership, I still love it. It may not be current, and have all the technology of newer cars, but its a quiet ride and can hold its own with most from a roll. The catless downpipes will keep the same exhaust sound/tone but just much louder when you are WOT and on cold starts. Under normal driving, there is not much difference or drone. One thing to consider with the windows up its a very tight car well insulated. You'll find yourself watching the tach instead, if the windows are up and the radio is on, since you won't really hear the motor. One of the first things I always recommend, besides a tune is a limited slip diff. It allows you to put more power down with less wheel spin, but it will get sideways on you real quick, like any other car with a LSD. Good luck, enjoy.
Sounds like you did some DP's. Did you do anything else downstream to your exhaust? I am contemplating fabbing up some electric cutouts pre-muffler allowing me to open them to where I feel it's "good".
This way I can close them when if need be. I have a Spool in my GN...scary on the street, going to keep the factory rear. Not looking to drag her, I use the GN for the 1/4 mile killer
I never cared for the sound of the open exhaust on this motor. To me it sounds sloppy, not the same as what V8s sound like open. If your looking for a street cruiser, I think the downpipes will do the trick. Anyone that hears you do a drive by will be impressed.
As far as the diff its just a matter of swapping the Ring and pinion onto a new center section. Same gears, no difference in driving. You'll find 40-60 mph burnouts being a waste with traction control cutting into the fun even when its turned off, you'll find right tire rotating or replacements annoying when you could be pulling harder.
Show pics of your GN. Always want to do one up as a slow 10 sec no cage family car, lol. Its Its just a matter of finding time and the right recipe. I have access to a "dark red" t-top t-type, that needs a complete overhaul. Probably not the most cost effective, but family owned since new.
I never cared for the sound of the open exhaust on this motor. To me it sounds sloppy, not the same as what V8s sound like open. If your looking for a street cruiser, I think the downpipes will do the trick. Anyone that hears you do a drive by will be impressed.
As far as the diff its just a matter of swapping the Ring and pinion onto a new center section. Same gears, no difference in driving. You'll find 40-60 mph burnouts being a waste with traction control cutting into the fun even when its turned off, you'll find right tire rotating or replacements annoying when you could be pulling harder.
Show pics of your GN. Always want to do one up as a slow 10 sec no cage family car, lol. Its Its just a matter of finding time and the right recipe. I have access to a "dark red" t-top t-type, that needs a complete overhaul. Probably not the most cost effective, but family owned since new.
86-87 Turbo Buicks are amazing machines however they are complicated. I'm on my 4th GN and owned (2) 89' TTA's. They are more needy then the CL in different ways. Challenge is, very few people "understand" them...they require attention from a old-school wrench (I have a PRO in the Carolina area). The T-Type you are describing sounds like a possible candidate, what must be inspected is the overall rust by someone experienced with these cars..they hide there problems well. If the car is original (and in decent shape body wise...) your looking in the neighborhood of (minimum) $20K to make her a reliable 10 second car. Parts are expensive, the 2004R will need a proper build...and the almighty 3.8 will need proper build w/ support and Turbo along w/ other supporting goodies such as a FAST XFI management system. These cars are just pure NASTY when built up and well feared, along with an exhaust note that's iconic. My $.002....after GN #4, join www.turbobuick.com, find a true enthusiast that has spent a ton and is selling reasonably. You will save yourself a lot of $$ and drama. If your the type that wants to build it yourself, PM me....I have your guy.
As for pics, here's 2 basic one's. She is sleeping in the garage. This one is a 61K mile immaculate version of a GN.
Very nice, and well said with your info. Always much cheaper to buy than build. Your car looks great, crazy to think it's that fast considering such a stock look. That's awesome. . GNX wheels have always add a bit of an aggressive look. The newer 18" GN knock offs look really nice in filling the wheel well. I like stock looking cars, so either work for me. With my CL65, I had an extra set of wheels widened to fit a bigger tire, most wouldn't notice.
Last edited by RaceHorse; Mar 8, 2020 at 08:20 PM.
Very nice, and well said with your info. Always much cheaper to buy than build. Your car looks great, crazy to think it's that fast considering such a stock look. That's awesome. . GNX wheels have always add a bit of an aggressive look. The newer 18" GN knock offs look really nice in filling the wheel well. I like stock looking cars, so either work for me. With my CL65, I had an extra set of wheels widened to fit a bigger tire, most wouldn't notice.
10's are easy on a stock block 3.8 w/ Champion Aluminum heads and a proper build w/ a (cheap) forged crank, 9's are easy w/ billet center caps or a Girdle (same build). These G Bodies launch extremely well with some suspension mods and will pretty much murder anything on the street in the 1/8th (basic street dig). I've owned way too many fast cars and settled on the old box Buick & a CL because I think there both just amazing and unique. I actually have widened 10" GNX rims on her now (not in that photo) because she has a problem hooking at 40 under a quick boost hit (6871 DBB Precision). They are crazy 1/4 milers and super fun on the street. Just from my 2 hour ride home w/ the stock CL feeling it's amazing top-end, w/ a few mods I can tell I've picked the best 2 cars w/o spending absurd $$
Congrats on the '05. She's a beauty. I picked up an '06 late last year. Got it in the shop giving it some cosmetic love. Previous owner had a MB ELW and knew what to do with it, so mechanicals were solid, so I had a good base to build on.
Please keep us in the loop on what you're doing with the CL. I may have to copy some of your good stuff. I will be posting what I've been up to when I get mine all back together. Cheers.
Good timing...Loaded a 93 octane OE Tuning tune in (I got the flash loader...) took it for a very small ride. Oh My....what a difference, PURE nasty. Bug has bitten...
I never cared for the sound of the open exhaust on this motor. To me it sounds sloppy, not the same as what V8s sound like open. If your looking for a street cruiser, I think the downpipes will do the trick. Anyone that hears you do a drive by will be impressed.
As far as the diff its just a matter of swapping the Ring and pinion onto a new center section. Same gears, no difference in driving. You'll find 40-60 mph burnouts being a waste with traction control cutting into the fun even when its turned off, you'll find right tire rotating or replacements annoying when you could be pulling harder.
Show pics of your GN. Always want to do one up as a slow 10 sec no cage family car, lol. Its Its just a matter of finding time and the right recipe. I have access to a "dark red" t-top t-type, that needs a complete overhaul. Probably not the most cost effective, but family owned since new.
The model number is QDF29B. Anyone selling Quaife LSDs should be able to source them. If not try Birds Auto in England. I was able to have mine shipped from them. It was pretty quick and similar in price to diffs for other Benz models.
Good timing...Loaded a 93 octane OE Tuning tune in (I got the flash loader...) took it for a very small ride. Oh My....what a difference, PURE nasty. Bug has bitten...
Loaded tune UPDATE! (Need some insight...)
Well, loaded the tune and of course...cyl 5 and 6 misfire (shocking...lol)
However, this car was ridiculously maintained (If I posted up pics of the receipts from MB you guys would cry!)
Anyways...within the last 10K miles (this car was never modded at 80K)
Both coil packs have been replaced by mother MB.
However the "transformer" (ig module) is original and the plugs were replaced 20K miles ago.
My initial thoughts: plug change (factory) and new coil pack
THOUGHTS???? I am leary on a factory/revised coil pack dumping at 10K miles w/ a stock tune but...I'm a 12 cyl newbie.
Thanks for your input. (it's nice owning 2 grand nationals' now...sigh)
Loaded tune UPDATE! (Need some insight...)
Well, loaded the tune and of course...cyl 5 and 6 misfire (shocking...lol)
However, this car was ridiculously maintained (If I posted up pics of the receipts from MB you guys would cry!)
Anyways...within the last 10K miles (this car was never modded at 80K)
Both coil packs have been replaced by mother MB.
However the "transformer" (ig module) is original and the plugs were replaced 20K miles ago.
My initial thoughts: plug change (factory) and new coil pack
THOUGHTS???? I am leary on a factory/revised coil pack dumping at 10K miles w/ a stock tune but...I'm a 12 cyl newbie.
Thanks for your input. (it's nice owning 2 grand nationals' now...sigh)
For starters confirm part number of the coils are the updated ones and that they weren't replaced early with older coils. I would Reset the CEL and see if it happens again. If it comes up with cylinders from the other bank, it's more likely to be the ignition module.
Thanks for that, I will try. Makes sense. It does have the original ig module (I have all the receipts from day 1...) do these need replacement often as well?
Here's something to think about. I've had my car 11 yrs, both coils and ignition module replaced separately over the course of 2 weeks, shortly after flashing the ECU back around 2010. I was told with a tune that you should replace the plugs ever 10k miles.
Fast forward until summer of 2017. On a warm day, probably 80-85ish, I was doing a bunch of hard pulls and got a misfire code. Thought for sure the driver side coil. I bought the DS coil, and 24 new plugs, stock replacement NGKs, since I had a little over 10k miles on the previous set of plugs. I was ready to swap them out and install the new coil, but I was talked into just doing the plugs. I still have the coil sitting on my shelf. Never had any issues, probably could have returned it, but felt as soon as I did, it would fail.
So long story short, it shouldn't continue to happen.
Here's something to think about. I've had my car 11 yrs, both coils and ignition module replaced separately over the course of 2 weeks, shortly after flashing the ECU back around 2010. I was told with a tune that you should replace the plugs ever 10k miles.
Fast forward until summer of 2017. On a warm day, probably 80-85ish, I was doing a bunch of hard pulls and got a misfire code. Thought for sure the driver side coil. I bought the DS coil, and 24 new plugs, stock replacement NGKs, since I had a little over 10k miles on the previous set of plugs. I was ready to swap them out and install the new coil, but I was talked into just doing the plugs. I still have the coil sitting on my shelf. Never had any issues, probably could have returned it, but felt as soon as I did, it would fail.
So long story short, it shouldn't continue to happen.
I'm gonna swap the plugs first then monitor the misfire counts under load. This car was driven low-speed so good chance there carboned up. Thanks for the thoughts.
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