Ather

Hi All,
Long time member but first post. After many years of admiring AMG models, like many I decided to take the plunge and pick up a CL65. I know I am going to get some slack for this but I picked it up from an Insurance Auction without inspecting or test driving it . I made a crazy offer and lo and behold I it got accepted. Should have delivery in about 10 days coming from FL.
Hoping its not a car belonging to one of the members here. I just hate the thought of watching these amazing cars be parted out. Not too many of them left.

I'm sure there's a long list of things that are going to be needed otherwise they wouldn't have let it go so cheap. I've got some money set aside for the usual upkeep items like ABC service, Tranny & Motor mounts, Coilpacks. I'm planning on doing some work myself and sending the harder stuff to an Indy mechanic here in San Jose CA.

I've started to go thru the Stickies and existing threads trying pick up some helpful repair info. I have an OBDII scanner bookmarked to purchase. I know I've got a ton of learning ahead of me but willing to take the plunge and get my knuckles bloodied to save $$$ where I can.

Its going to need some body parts. The lower bumper grille mesh and a small square on the side skirt below the drivers door (don't know what that part is called) plus air duct hoses in the engine. If anyone knows a good place to pick up used parts that would be great. I'm posting some pics.

Thanks and regards,
Ather

principledchiro

Good score! You probably got it so $low$...as if you stole it. If the ABC suspension is shot, I'd place in a $900 Yellow Speed Racing Sport coil-over suspension (adjustable height and dampening); an easy install (approx. $700), plus this sheds 80 lbs. from an already heavy coupe, and no more ABC worries. This mod also frees up hp due to not having a tandem pump pushing 8 quarts of Pentocin (ABC fluid) at 3000 psi. through 20 feet of hydraulic hoses and huge-heavy hydraulic struts. In place of the tandem pump; use inexpensive rebuilt 2003-2006 S500 (W220) power steering pump, W220 S500 new front lower control arms, and used W220 S500 front and rear sway bars. Inexpensive rebuilt coil packs are now available. Get an ECU and TCM tune, a Qauife limited slip differential...then your once 610 bhp/725 lb/ft. trq. Monster becomes a 750 chp/850 lb/ft trq. CL65 Godzilla.

Ather

Thank you so much for the guidance principlechiro. This really helps knowing what replacement parts can fit as an alternative. The ABC Suspension switch is a great idea and I will definitely look into that.

Dr Matt

Welcome to the 65 club! That car is going to ruin you for everything else.....

Ather

Last night was the first sleepless night wondering what I have gotten into

principledchiro

I've a once 500 bhp 2006 CL55 AMG that now puts down nearly 650 bhp and 700 lb/ft trq. The CL65 even more prodigious torque will cause you to feel you rule the highways. Dr. Matt and other V12 TT masters will guide you through the most logical inexpensive routes to make your new ride as most enjoyable and fun possible. As mentioned earlier...ECU, TCU tune and LSD? The LSD is what I would place in first. This will hook up both wheels and effectively defeat the ESP traction control program. The car has almost too much torque. Upon launch, an LSD will allow for less feathering of the peddle to avoid wheel spin and the traction control from kicking in.

BlownV8

I second the motion to remove and replace the ABC suspension. If you do that, the car should be somewhat reliable and will eliminate some big repair bills you have coming your way.

Dr Matt

Agreed. The Quaife LSD, ECU & TCU tunes take a CL65 to absolute beast status and make them soooo much more fun to drive. Delete the cats & mufflers and they sound incredible as well. If you are in a lot of stop & go traffic add a Killer Chiller.

I also agree with the miles on that car and unknown condition of the suspension, you are better off with the coil over conversion than trying to fix ABC. My car only has a little over 60,000 miles on it and I have about $5k in ABC repairs doing all of the work myself, and getting good deals on parts. Now my rear valve block is sinking....

My plan would be
1. Coil overs
2. necessary reairs
3. LSD
4. ECU/TCU tunes
5. straight pipes

I did the ECU/TCU tunes first and with the stock rear diff kept me from feeling most of the benefits from it.

FWIW sticky tires should be in the plan too. My car had new Continental DW tires when I got it. They SUCK. Terrible grip, wear fast, ride hard, and incredibly loud. Replaced them with BFG g-Force COMP-2 A/S tires and holy cow! What a difference in ride, noise and traction. Only downside is they are only rated for 168 mph. No standing mile events near me anyway so I just lift after the car hits 5th gear...

Ather

Thank you so much Blown V8 and Dr Matt and thanks again principlechiro for the guidance, plan and wisdom. All great info. I'll start with the coilover job and go from there.
I was reading the amazing write up by member aarkaah titled "My w215 CL55 ABC Delete Thread - Yellow Speed Racing Coilover Conversion and Review" and lots of good info there and that sounds like the way to go so I'll start looking for a shop in the San Jose/Bay Area that can do that.

Cheers.

1ForcedBenz

I think you might have your hands full for a while before you even get to the suspension. Do you know why it was totalled out? From the picture of the engine bay you can tell there are 0 bolts in the core support and there's not even the hood latches there anymore.

Would leave me to believe someone tore the front radiators/coolers/etc down to gain access to the front of the engine. I know the v12s seem to blow there radiators after 70kish miles or atleast my older generation 215/220 cars did. Just hopefully it's not tore down or totalled due to engine issues.

benzslo

I'd run!

Ather

No, I don't know why it was totaled. The auction said "Run and Drive" condition and primary damage was "Mechanical" and that was about it. The reserve bid was $12100 and I was the highest bidder at $5400 at the end of the auction. I got an email saying the seller countered at $8500 and I said no. Then they emailed back and said they accepted my bid for $5400. The first feeling I had when I heard that was...oh god...what did I get myself into? That was too easy.
So, with auction fees and shipping, I am up to $8k.

So I am expecting some bad things but hoping for the best. Too late to run...I've paid them already

biker349

thanks for the info. $5400 is a good price. hopefully you can fix it for a few thousand. the shipping and auction fees are the killers. if you get the car and it doesn't drive and run do you have any re-course? i would assume you could since they stated drives and runs. worse case scenario is you part it out, or sell it to someone else that will cover your costs.
good luck.

RaceHorse

Good luck with the new car. I think it's worth what you paid, but I would have an independent shop do an inspection and list all the parts and labor associated with the repairs. Paying $200 to know exactly what is needed will be well worth it. Then you can decide what repairs you can handle, to save on the labor, and which repairs you need to pay for. Don't take it the wrong way, but if the numbers don't work, try and double your money parting it out and use $16k towards buying one with 40k miles less. Assuming you have the space, you will become very familiar with the car doing the disassemble then working on your own in the future will be much easier when it really matters. Good luck.

Dr Matt

Couldn't resist......<br/>

Ather

Thanks Racehorse, yup, was thinking the same thing with the inspection. I unfortunately don't have the space or the heavy tools to do a diss-assemble. I may try just putting it up for sale as-is and see if anyone else wants to take that on. I am also trying to back out of the auction by seeing if I can pay a relist fee penalty and move on.

benzslo

On a car like that, take it to a dealer, an indy shop is very limited in experience and diagnostics and will just dig your hole deeper.
I'd consider parting out what you can.

Welwynnick

Ather,

Been meaning to reply for a while. Welcome to the club and good luck.

I've had more than my fair share of the sort of problems you're likely going to encounter, and if you start with the right approach, there isn't too much to fear.

Everything went wrong on my first V12TT, but the only expensive thing was a coil pack, and I would repair rather than replace knowing what I do now.

The only other really difficult problem was the ignition lock failing. That's nasty.

Otherwise everything else is just nuts and bolts and oil and rubber. Apart from routine servicing, everything is difficult, but it's manageable, and nothing to be afraid of.

The main thing I have say is please please please don't ditch ABC. It's a mainstay of the chassis, and I certainly wouldn't keep my car if it wasn't for that. I would never buy a CL with coil-overs. Not ever. Not under any circumstances. It's a heavy, powerful car, and the suspension needs all the help it can get. A 600bhp car that rolls in corners?

Whatever is wrong with the suspension on that car is fixable, and it doesn't have to cost four figures every time something happens.

All the best,

Nick

NRL

Additionally recommend finding someone or buy a Mercedes Xentry/Diagnostic (Clone or not).
It can scan for a clean bill of health or not electronically/mechanically otherwise.

It's helped me little gremlins like pinpointing which AC temperture sensor had bad readings, Coil pack issue (new coil packs solved it), TPMS, etc and more..

For me, I'm saving up for the Quaife LSD.. I need general consensus whether it a good Mod overall (more Pros, and less Con's)

Ather

Thanks very much for the words of encouragement Nick. I don't mind doing the smaller mundane repairs, just by looking at the pics and what another member mentioned about the front bumper and radiator housing being removed to do engine work. Thats an expensive and complex piece of kit and beyond my budget. Lets see how it goes

Welwynnick

get used to removing the front bumper and the fan housing, but not the radiator - that's unusual, probably a one-off.


Nick

1ForcedBenz

I wasn't trying to bum you out man, I hope it comes in and doesn't need much or maybe the repairs were already completed. But got totaled out due to a supplemental claim.

Either way, you should be able to get your cash back out of it if you decide to! Let us know what it looks like when you get it.

sakodik

Hit up Star Auto in San Jose. Joe does all my vehicle - S55, S65, H1 - being the most difficult and costly. He can give you a ball park pricing on everything you need or whats missing, then you do the rest, hunting and researching what to do.

Those wheels cost a little more than half the car, PART OUT

Ather

Thanks very much for the referral sakodik. I will definitely do that. Always good to know who is a legitimate shop.

Ather

No worries, all good Nick. Just getting nervous while waiting for delivery and a good deal of buyers remorse.
Always appreciate advice from the experts
Thanks again.