ratha67

Hey guys, I was wondering if you had any ideas with what's goin on with my '99 CLK 430.

I'm in California and my CLK is due for its regular smog check. The check engine light has been on for awhile now, so I knew I had to take care of that otherwise it would not pass smog.

Took it to my usual smog check guys and they were trying to work with me to get it to pass. He cleared the system and had me drive it to see if I can collect enough data onto the computer before the check engine light comes on which would be and automatic fail. Apparently the numerous times we tried, I couldn't get it to the point that the smog machine could smog it, without having the light to come on.

He gave me the error code causing the check engine light which is the usual P0173 and PO170 Fuel trim error in Bank 1 and 2.

By looking at the other threads, I've seen everyone fix this problem by either cleaning out or replacing the MAF sensor.

I followed the instructions in cleaning out the MAF sensor with electronic cleaner and everything seemed to work fine. I cleared the check engine, and drove it about 60 miles.

Then the next time I started the engine, I got a warning light that says "Defective Display", my speedometer doesn't work, my BAS, ABS, and check engine lights are on, and my car is not shifting out of 1st gear!!! I shut it off and started it a few times, and those are still the symptoms. I confirmed that both of the plugs behind the gauges are securely fastened.

Can all this occur because of a bad MAF sensor?
Could it have been damaged when I sprayed it with Electronic cleaner?

My next step is, I'm going to buy a new MAF sensor off ebay for about $100 and replace that. Anyone have any other ideas with what else I can do. In case you haven't already figured it out, I am avoiding the stealership at all cost. Thanks.

tripz

its in limp or emergency mode, Im having the same issue. Could be an accelerator sensor error. Like an $80 part. Good luck

ratha67

now the whole instrument cluster is shot. doesn't power up at all. No lights, no gauges. Seems like its not even plugged in. Disconnected the battery a couple times to try to reset the system. Still nothing.

Took it to another mechanic. He hooked it up and pulled up an ungodly amount of codes. The plan now is to clear the codes and see which ones reappear. Current symptoms are the instrument cluster is not working at all and it won't shift out of first gear.

Looks like now the problem is more than the MAF.

CurYousGee

from your first post, bank 1 and bank 2 sounds like O2 sensors, but that should not equate to the problems you have now....good luck!

ratha67

Just focusing on my instrument cluster problem...

1. The speedometer wasn't working
2. check engine light
3. BAS light
4. ABS light
5. "Defective Display" warning

Then after I pulled out the instrument cluster to make sure the plugs were securely fastened, the entire cluster is out now. Nothing on the instrument cluster works.

Also, the little clasp that flip up to secure the plugs in slipped right off of one of the plugs.

Anyone ever have their entire instrument cluster go out?

CurYousGee

hmm..never heard of that in the almost 4 years of participation on this forum....many have parts of the LED go out, but you are the first i have heard with this problem, hopefully someone will chime in soon with a similar problem

bbearden

If the MAF does not clear your fuel trim errors, I would think that your O2 sensors are causing your issues with the CEL. Replacing them should fix things for your smog check. As for the dash cluster, you might find a spare on eBay but be weary it could have bad pixels in the MFD (a common reason they are for sale on there)

ratha67

Thanks for the helpful posts.

After a couple days of tinkering with the car, my mechanic got the instrument cluster working again. Apparently the broken clip prevented the cluster from plugging in correctly, and there were also a couple blown fuses where the code reader hooks up.

So once the instrument cluster started working, that apparently fixed the problem with it not getting out of 1st gear..

Once all of the codes were cleared, I put on a couple hundred miles to make sure the check engine light wasn't coming back on, and it just passed smog today.

Apparently cleaning the MAF with the electronic cleaner did the trick. Passed smog and the CEL didn't come back on .... Yet.

Now that thats all done, I might start looking into all the road noise coming out of my front end while driving. I've been dealing with the noise for years. I got a list of things to look in to. I hear it could be the wheel bearings, tie rod, rotors, steering dampner, balance, alignment, or tires.

The camber is probably off. Probably need a camber kit. Someone said I probably have to repack the bearings or I need to check the tie rod. Any thoughts???

ratha67

I spoke too soon. After about 600 miles of driving, the check engine light just came back on. Every now and then during the last 600 miles, the car was really sluggish at take off. I can give it a lot of gas and it will hesitate and slowwwwwly start to speed up.

Example: at a red light...light turns green...I accelerate... car does not really respond...I give it more and more gas... then car starts to finally respond and slowly speeds up...People behind me are probably pissed off since its taking me so long to get up to speed.

Also my car is idling like absolute crap..Engine is not running smooth at all. At a stop sometimes it feels like it might shut off.

The MAF is probably shot now. I'll look into checking the code again and seeing if it is the same fuel trim malfunction in bank 1 and 2.

916CLK

I replaced my MAF due to sluggish performance. I would step on the gas and it would start backfiring and sputtering. After replacing the MAF, the car runs like a champ. Hope this helps.

bbearden

is likely your issue. You can try cleaning the MAF again, this time soaking it in electrical parts cleaner. Do you have a scan tool to pull the codes? The symptoms sound like a MAF failure to me, but I could be wrong here.

ratha67

I don't have a code reader and have to take it to a shop to get the codes read. Tomorrow morning I'm going to take out the MAF and spray it again with the electronic cleaner. The first time I pulled it out and sprayed it, it looked completely clean prior to me spraying it. Should it look dirty to require cleaning? After spraying it, it looked just as clean as before spraying it.

By the way is Ebay my best bet if I need to replace the MAF?

I also find it strange that the check engine light didn't come on until about 600 miles after the codes were cleared.

A couple years ago, one of the shops I took it to replaced my intake gaskets saying that there was a leak in the intake manifold (they came to this conclusion by spraying carburator cleaner away from the air ducts, closer to the firewall and watching the engine rev).

The other threads addressed how the MAF might be good, but there might be a leak introducing air that never went through the air box. I guess this can cause the CEL and might explain why it took 600 miles before the CEL came on.

Any thoughts on that? I appreciate all the help.

bbearden

Oils and small contaminants do get their way onto the sensor wire and are not visible to the naked eye, though they do have their effect on the engine's performance. K&N filter oil is notorious for this, especially when people over-oil their filters, which most people tend to do!

A vacuum leak in your manifold or in some of the vacuum lines could definitely cause problems with the idling although for your problems to go away for 600 miles after cleaning the MAF, I doubt that is the issue.

As far as MAFs go, eBay is your best bet. I feel sorry for suckers who go to the dealership to buy them for $350-$500.

Whodat

Sounds like the MAF for sure.
I got mine (Bosch) from here for $207:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...294967022+7110

I've also heard the type of oil can affect MAF longevity. Cleaning it may make the CEL go out but it's not a real long term solution from what I've seen.

ebonick22

I have that display defective but every thing works but but it just don't light up or do anything when I turn my headlights on. Also my climate control dont light up as well. can some1 help me.