Went into limp mode
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: NY/CT
CLK 320
Went into limp mode
I had a couple of issues with my clk where it wouldn't turn over, and before I could go get a crankshaft position sensor, the car started limping and has a tough time going from D to P/R, which seems to be a sign of a bad transmission control module.
Any idea how much this part is and if I can change it on my own? I'm not afraid of the dealer but after changing my seat motor myself (a $600 job according to the dealer) I'm more inclined to try to fix things on my own ;-)
Thanks
Any idea how much this part is and if I can change it on my own? I'm not afraid of the dealer but after changing my seat motor myself (a $600 job according to the dealer) I'm more inclined to try to fix things on my own ;-)
Thanks
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From: NY/CT
CLK 320
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: NY/CT
CLK 320
Not that I know, but the wife drives the car to work some times while I drive my G35... 
Why? Any components down there that might have fried or something? I guess I can take the thing apart and see if anything looks amiss. I might try that after the ECU reset later on today.
Why? Any components down there that might have fried or something? I guess I can take the thing apart and see if anything looks amiss. I might try that after the ECU reset later on today.
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From: NY/CT
CLK 320
Well looks like my car decided it had enough and gave up. I never got to drive it after it limped to see what was up. The wife drove it home that day and now it wont start.
It clicks like it's about to crank but never does.
I figured it might be a cps issue so I replaced it -- easy job, now that I know what to do :-) - but it did not fix the issue.
I'm stuck thinking it could be the starter or something along those lines. Everything electrical works fine - lights, radio, etc. So I'm thinking it's gotta be related to the ignition.
Not sure what else to try but I know taking it to the dealer will result in a rather hefty bill so I'd rather try my way first just in case it's something simple.
It clicks like it's about to crank but never does.
I figured it might be a cps issue so I replaced it -- easy job, now that I know what to do :-) - but it did not fix the issue.
I'm stuck thinking it could be the starter or something along those lines. Everything electrical works fine - lights, radio, etc. So I'm thinking it's gotta be related to the ignition.
Not sure what else to try but I know taking it to the dealer will result in a rather hefty bill so I'd rather try my way first just in case it's something simple.
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Anaheim Hills, CA
CLK430, SC430, RX330
I've got no ideas for your starting issues, however mine has gone into limp mode for a couple of possible reasons in the past. 1) spilled drink into cupholder compartment. 2) 150k mi on what I had previously thought was lifetime transmission fluid.
Steps I took.
I took a blowdryer to the base of the cupholder compartment, replaced a couple of blown fuses nearby where the OBDII reader hooks up, reset the ecu, then had my transmission fluid flushed. Worked like a charm.
Maybe your starting issues have to do with your ignition switch, or could it be that your car doesn't know its in park when you are trying to start it? Good luck.
Steps I took.
I took a blowdryer to the base of the cupholder compartment, replaced a couple of blown fuses nearby where the OBDII reader hooks up, reset the ecu, then had my transmission fluid flushed. Worked like a charm.
Maybe your starting issues have to do with your ignition switch, or could it be that your car doesn't know its in park when you are trying to start it? Good luck.
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Well looks like my car decided it had enough and gave up. I never got to drive it after it limped to see what was up. The wife drove it home that day and now it wont start.
It clicks like it's about to crank but never does.
I figured it might be a cps issue so I replaced it -- easy job, now that I know what to do :-) - but it did not fix the issue.
I'm stuck thinking it could be the starter or something along those lines. Everything electrical works fine - lights, radio, etc. So I'm thinking it's gotta be related to the ignition.
Not sure what else to try but I know taking it to the dealer will result in a rather hefty bill so I'd rather try my way first just in case it's something simple.
It clicks like it's about to crank but never does.
I figured it might be a cps issue so I replaced it -- easy job, now that I know what to do :-) - but it did not fix the issue.
I'm stuck thinking it could be the starter or something along those lines. Everything electrical works fine - lights, radio, etc. So I'm thinking it's gotta be related to the ignition.
Not sure what else to try but I know taking it to the dealer will result in a rather hefty bill so I'd rather try my way first just in case it's something simple.
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1999 clk 320
The "clicking" by the starter definately sounds like the battery needs attention.
It could easily have enough juice for the radio, lights, etc. Espcially when you are just checking them for a minute.
Charge the battery first. I mean don't even THINK about what MIGHT be broke(starter, et al) until you have taken the battery out of the equation.
It could easily have enough juice for the radio, lights, etc. Espcially when you are just checking them for a minute.
Charge the battery first. I mean don't even THINK about what MIGHT be broke(starter, et al) until you have taken the battery out of the equation.
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From: NY/CT
CLK 320
The "clicking" by the starter definately sounds like the battery needs attention.
It could easily have enough juice for the radio, lights, etc. Espcially when you are just checking them for a minute.
Charge the battery first. I mean don't even THINK about what MIGHT be broke(starter, et al) until you have taken the battery out of the equation.
It could easily have enough juice for the radio, lights, etc. Espcially when you are just checking them for a minute.
Charge the battery first. I mean don't even THINK about what MIGHT be broke(starter, et al) until you have taken the battery out of the equation.
And I've gone dead battery before... this doesn't look anything like it.
But it's a good plan... I'll try it and see if it helps. Hopefully between that and the new CPS I'll be all set...
Hopefully.
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From: Bay Area
03 C32 gone, 06 CLS55, 16 Tesla X
That makes sense, but it wouldn't account for the previous problems of the car limping...
And I've gone dead battery before... this doesn't look anything like it.
But it's a good plan... I'll try it and see if it helps. Hopefully between that and the new CPS I'll be all set...
Hopefully.
And I've gone dead battery before... this doesn't look anything like it.
But it's a good plan... I'll try it and see if it helps. Hopefully between that and the new CPS I'll be all set...
Hopefully.
The limping mode may be caused by bad/freezed trans computer, ECU, transmission, engine, speed sensor etc. While the starter is just the problem for the first initial starting the car.
+1 check your battery first. If you have another battery just replace it for a check. Couple years ago I broke the positive anode of mime and the symptom is the same. The car clicked but never cranked. I knew it the battery sine I broke it, so I replace the battery and things were back to normal. Your symptom may be the starter and/or battery. So yes, I would check out the battery first.
And again this symptom is not related to limping mod.
FYI, last time I checked with the dealer, TCU would cost you $8xx-$900 for a used one with core ($190 core). Don’t even think about the dealer (sorry stealer)
. You can get one online for $2xx - $3xx (but do at your own risk). The computer is located under the floormate on your passanger side.Good luck
Last edited by CLKCLK; May 30, 2008 at 12:30 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: NY/CT
CLK 320
The limping issue and starter are two totally seperated issues here. There is no way for a failure starter to make the car in limping mode
The limping mode may be caused by bad/freezed trans computer, ECU, transmission, engine, speed sensor etc. While the starter is just the problem for the first initial starting the car.
The limping mode may be caused by bad/freezed trans computer, ECU, transmission, engine, speed sensor etc. While the starter is just the problem for the first initial starting the car.
) with my G35 and try to see if using the G's battery gets the starting thing going.As far as the limping -- or anything else going on -- I would never go to the stealership again for something like this. Their prices are ridiculous even while the car is in warranty, as I saw when they quoted me $1200 for a front/rear brake job.
Hopefully it was the CPS and the battery and I can call it a day. If not then it's off to the mechanic to see how bad the damage is.
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From: NY/CT
CLK 320
Well what do you know... I got the jumper cables and hooked up the car to my G and it started -- after a bit of reluctance as expected.
Looks like the starting issue is battery related, and from reading the threads here it's probably time for the battery to go.
I did see first-hand the shifting problem though... when I move the car from P to R, you can "feel" the tranny shift. Stopped with the e-brake and foot on the brake, going from P to R or from N to R/D it is really noticeable, almost like there's something wrong with the transmission physically.
Not sure how else to explain it... you can usually feel the tranny shift when backing up or going from R to Drive, but in this case it is really noticeable, and the RPMs drop to about 500 -- like the car is about to stall.
Not sure that there's any fix for this that I can do... I thought it was the CPS but at least that's not a concern anymore. My only worry is that if there's something wrong and the tranny needs to be replaced/rebuilt, it is going to cost half what the car is worth...
Looks like the starting issue is battery related, and from reading the threads here it's probably time for the battery to go.
I did see first-hand the shifting problem though... when I move the car from P to R, you can "feel" the tranny shift. Stopped with the e-brake and foot on the brake, going from P to R or from N to R/D it is really noticeable, almost like there's something wrong with the transmission physically.
Not sure how else to explain it... you can usually feel the tranny shift when backing up or going from R to Drive, but in this case it is really noticeable, and the RPMs drop to about 500 -- like the car is about to stall.
Not sure that there's any fix for this that I can do... I thought it was the CPS but at least that's not a concern anymore. My only worry is that if there's something wrong and the tranny needs to be replaced/rebuilt, it is going to cost half what the car is worth...
Newbie
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1
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From: Pacific NW
2001 AMG CLK 430
I had nearly same troubles
I had to install a crankshaft position sensor - installed cost $217. then had to put in a Bosch Air Mass Meter - part cost $249 + 20 min install time. CLK430 runs great now.
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 50
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From: Columbia SC
95 E320 cab, 81 300D,, 83 300D
Try this:
A: As you have already figured out, and several members mentioned, the battery issue was unrelated to limp home - but will cause no start issues. The CLK (others too, i imagine), will not engage the starter when voltage is below 13.5V (I think I'm remembering this correctly) - which means you can crank the radio, fan and run all lights, but still not get a single turn from the starter. This is allegedly to prevent damage to the starter.
Reagrding limp home, and engagement issues, check the bushings in your linkage, and the shift unit itself. It sounds like what you have is a hydraulic limp home, as opposed to an electrical. Partial gear engagement for more than 20 seconds or so will cause this. If you are binding mechanically within the linkage - you can easily generate this code and the resulting limp home.
Other easy checks include pulling up the pass. carpet and accessing the TCU. Check for signs of fluid on the downhill part of the harness. It will flow from a leaky (common) transmission connector pin uphill to the TCU (my first lesson in the conductive properties of trans. fluid). Also, before you pay for some expensive part replacement, pull the selector lever out, spray it with rubbing alcohol (or the more expensive electronic cleaner - which is essentially the same thing), and pull the HCU off the top off the valve body. Seems scary when you do it, but it is a fairly straightforward DIY job. Clean it with alcohol and a soft bristled toothbrush, check the springs inside the valve body and make sure you have the caps seated on the solenoids in the HCU (mine did not come with them, but I bought them from local MB dealer for $4).
P.M. me if you have additional questions, glad to help.
Reagrding limp home, and engagement issues, check the bushings in your linkage, and the shift unit itself. It sounds like what you have is a hydraulic limp home, as opposed to an electrical. Partial gear engagement for more than 20 seconds or so will cause this. If you are binding mechanically within the linkage - you can easily generate this code and the resulting limp home.
Other easy checks include pulling up the pass. carpet and accessing the TCU. Check for signs of fluid on the downhill part of the harness. It will flow from a leaky (common) transmission connector pin uphill to the TCU (my first lesson in the conductive properties of trans. fluid). Also, before you pay for some expensive part replacement, pull the selector lever out, spray it with rubbing alcohol (or the more expensive electronic cleaner - which is essentially the same thing), and pull the HCU off the top off the valve body. Seems scary when you do it, but it is a fairly straightforward DIY job. Clean it with alcohol and a soft bristled toothbrush, check the springs inside the valve body and make sure you have the caps seated on the solenoids in the HCU (mine did not come with them, but I bought them from local MB dealer for $4).
P.M. me if you have additional questions, glad to help.
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From: NY/CT
CLK 320
thanks muskrat. Looks like I've got my work cut out for me this weekend.
I wouldn't mind taking it to a shop really - as long as it's not the dealer :-) - but what I don't want is someone "guessing" what could be wrong and making matters worse. If it's gonna be amateur hour, I can do that **** myself. :-)
I wouldn't mind taking it to a shop really - as long as it's not the dealer :-) - but what I don't want is someone "guessing" what could be wrong and making matters worse. If it's gonna be amateur hour, I can do that **** myself. :-)
