Williams707

I'm listening

Ghostrider

Ummm... I like girls...

Yeah, I'll be making as many parts as people can stand!!! How does everyone feel about a remote start kit??

VIPclk320

SOLD!!!!!!!! i tried it but ended up doing a push start and ended up taking that off too. Ghost i'm first.

Hary Gahtoe

Your work rivals high end aftermarket companies. I would be interested in this myself. Nice work.

Ghostrider

Thanks Hary!!! Sometimes its for an individual to make a peice than a whole company... Right VIP!!

Ghostrider

I'm trying to get Mid City Engineering interested in doing a kit for our cars...

dlbehrns

if I am seeing your system correctly, it bolts onto either the OEM exhaust manifold or your headers, the primary cats go bye-bye and the secondary cats move further down the food chain and the resonator bolts on as usual, no? I saw one bung on each down pipe for an O2 sensor. What happens to the after primary O2 sensor? their is normally one before and after the primary cat, yes?

Ghostrider

Yes, and yes! It was made off of the factory system on a CLK430/55. I had the rear o2 sensor extended and the fronts remained in the factory locations.

VIPclk320

Yessir

dlbehrns

to..................where? someplace after the cats? duh! that would be the only logical place for them. I didn't look close enough at the pics. how did you extend or rewire the 2nd sensor if I may ask please? You know me Mel. I always have questions? Thanks!

Williams707

Here are some CALGONE Questions

- how much for the v6 headers?

- how much for the exhaust CATs Piping?

- what type of headers are they going to be?
(bolt on? are the cats gonna stay where they are?)

- what type of metal and finish is going to be use?

Ghostrider

- Between $900-$950

- Not sure. It was based off a 430's exhaust, so I don't know if it will transfer over.

- They will be direct replacements for the factory manifolds, and the cats stay.

- Right now it looks like ceramic coated, mild steel.

AMS Performance

Why not do aluminized steel, its not much more expensive and you never have to worry about rust b/c mild steel no matter how well its coated will always rust (and quickly). Just a suggestion, if you are going to do it, might as well do it right. Heck I may even get one from you if its done right .

Nice work

Ghostrider

That's a good idea!!!

dlbehrns

can aluminized steel be coated to minimize heat transfer or does it take the place of coating?

Ghostrider

Yes it can, and it is a nice compromise between mild steel and stainless steel.

AMS Performance

Yes you can, but to be honest, ceramic coating it won't do anything for power, and its not really necessary for heat b/c most of the heat is carried away by air passing underneath the car anyways. Its really more for looks than anything else (and typically the coatings are not very strong and easy to scratch off). If money can be saved by not coating it all in order to lower price that would be far more beneficial than any benefits the coating itself could provide (say down to $800 price point).

Also Ghost, you may want to include plug n' play O2 extenders in that price as most people do not want to splice n' dice their oxygen sensor lines (lots of problems can occur this way).

All just ideas, keep it up

Ghostrider

Actually, I would do extended bungs instead of wires next time.

Williams707

Guess we should start taking names. I am down. How much do you want down to start? Half? Thanks AMS Performance for the advice you gave to Ghost.

MarcusF

David may have mentioned coatings because the goal is to lock in the heat, which coatings do. The hotter the exhaust, the faster it moves (velocity), as velocity increases, so does scavenging.

Ghostrider

Gold star for Fitzy!!! That's also the other reason for not using black on the headers...

dlbehrns

Mel, you mentioned in one of your very early header posts that you didn't realize the amount of heat that came off your first header prototype. if powder coating aluminized steel headers in white instead of black is the best way to move heat and prevent, or keep to a minimum, heat buildup in the engine compartment, I vote for that. I could care less what the color they are. Perhaps others do for show purposes. As far as the color and coating of the exhaust you built, does it matter?

Ghostrider

It can be silver or gray, either would work.

AMS Performance

Williams707 - Just trying to help out Ghost , AMS has zero interest in doing downpipes anyways, just not our thing (inventory space & shipping will be a headache to say the least). Ghost has asked AMS for help early on in the past so just trying to help & be good samaritans .

MarcusF - The theory behind it is obvious, I do not doubt the theory. What I doubt is that it will make any measurable difference on a dyno, especially for the $ investment required (which I doubt it will make any significant measurable difference beyond normal dyno variability between normal runs).

As far as cosmetics, Its under the car so it will never be seen anyways, so really anything that can be excluded in order to bring the overall MSRP costs down below $800 would be far more beneficial. $1k is pushing the limits of what the market will bear in all honesty. For that kind of money its better off to just get headers (which are by far the best mod on these NA AMGs). If they are priced around $800 that means for $2k you can get both headers & downpipes.

Again, just polite suggestions

Ghostrider

Omey - To be honest, I never asked for help from AMS... Help was nowhere in our conversation, unless you count my offer to help you with your design that is.

Marcus - You are correct and I feel every little bit counts!!

Why can't a product work and look good, that why companies use polished stainless.

With my pricing, both headers and downpipes will be under $2K...