CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

Coolant Change

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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 10:51 AM
  #1  
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Coolant Change

What type of coolant do you use? I have done a search and some of the guys in the other forums suggest Xerex while other suggest getting it from the dealer. Any thought?
Thanks.
Steve
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 11:31 AM
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Zerex G-05 is the factory fill for 1984 and later Mercedes. IE - the antifreeze sold at your dealer is made by Zerex.
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 04:00 PM
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hey marcus,

do you mix it with dist. h20?

fletcher jones told me to just use regular drinking h20?
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 11:44 PM
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I use distilled water. Sounds like FJ offers bottled water in the waiting room, and tap water for a coolant change.
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 01:23 PM
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CLK 55 ///AMG Cabrio, ML63 ///AMG
I've done this many times in GM cars, but is there a special procedure for the MBs?

Also, anyone change their thermostat while changing the coolant?

My car seems to rum as hot as 229o F in extreme traffic. I wouldn't minde seeing if I can get a cooler thermostat for it. Anyone know if that exists?
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Old Jul 13, 2008 | 12:29 AM
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The coolant change is easy. Drop the lower cover and open the radiator drain. The radiator drain is on the driver's side. Ignore the block plug. The block plug is hard to find and if opened, nothing will come out if the radiator is drained.

The thermostat is simple and doing it with a coolant change makes sense. Two bolts and a big circular seal is all that's to it.
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Old Jul 13, 2008 | 02:56 AM
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Thanks Marcus. Any idea on the "burping" procedure - i.e. getting air out of the system.
Is it something like this:

- Drain coolant from system
- Fill at radiator until coolant reaches top of radiator neck
- leave radiator cap off and start car
- watch as coolant level drops and add coolant as it drops
- allow car to reach operating temp and continue to fill as required
- when car reaches operating temp, close rad cap

Is that basically how it's done properly?


Originally Posted by MarcusF
The coolant change is easy. Drop the lower cover and open the radiator drain. The radiator drain is on the driver's side. Ignore the block plug. The block plug is hard to find and if opened, nothing will come out if the radiator is drained.

The thermostat is simple and doing it with a coolant change makes sense. Two bolts and a big circular seal is all that's to it.
Reply
Old Jul 13, 2008 | 04:04 PM
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The radiator doesn't have a cap or a neck, but there's a coolant reservoir on the passenger side of the engine. You’ll have to remove that cap when you drain the radiator. That’s also where you’ll refill the system. The rest was correct; after refilling leave the cap off, restart the car, turn the AC on max to speed the warm up process, and add more coolant as it drops. I typically take my car for a short drive to ensure it’s good and hot. When I pull back into the garage, I turn the heater on max heat and then check the coolant level while it’s running. Turning the heater on will open the duovalve, which may drop the level a little bit more. After that, you’re done. You may want to check it again in a few days to see if the level has dropped.

I’ve never had to burp my CLK. The reservoir is the highest spot in the cooling system so the air bubbles end up there.

Originally Posted by newguy2008
Thanks Marcus. Any idea on the "burping" procedure - i.e. getting air out of the system.
Is it something like this:

- Drain coolant from system
- Fill at radiator until coolant reaches top of radiator neck
- leave radiator cap off and start car
- watch as coolant level drops and add coolant as it drops
- allow car to reach operating temp and continue to fill as required
- when car reaches operating temp, close rad cap

Is that basically how it's done properly?
Reply
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Old Jul 13, 2008 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by MarcusF
T[COLOR=black]You’ll have to remove that cap when you drain the radiator. That’s also where you’ll refill the system. The rest was correct; after refilling leave the cap off, restart the car, turn the AC on max to speed the warm up process, and add more coolant as it drops. I typically take my car for a short drive to ensure it’s good and hot. When I pull back into the garage, I turn the heater on max heat and then check the coolant level while it’s running. Turning the heater on will open the duovalve, which may drop the level a little bit more. After that, you’re done. You may want to check it again in a few days to see if the level has dropped.

Before draining, warm up the system with the heater at maximun (opens duo valve and therostat). This gets out more of the old collant.
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