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What type of alarm malfunction we talking? I had a malfunction while arming the car where the lights would blink signaling an error and alarm would siren randomly while driving.... The alarm problem went away within a few days of disconnecting battery.
Mine started after i changed my battery, now ramdomlly my car inmobilize and i can't do anything until i take a terminal out for a minute and get it back in. I think is the anti-thef that is getting turn on. Before it happens i here a beep for a few seconds inside the car. I did lost a key a few weeks ago. but still if someone had the key they could not inmobilize the car when it's running right?
Another thing that happens when the car turns off is the display says "DISPLAY DEFECTIVE" and nothing works in the car. only thing that works is the lights when i open the door and the car external lights but the car wont start. I have to take a terminal off the battery to restart the ECU for the car to start again. I am going crazy with this problem. I just want to know how to stop it first, then if i need to buy a new alarm module from my dealer so be it. Also the key i lost was the small chrome key i bought a year ago, I am now using the large black key that came with the car. They car has never done something like this.
Call the dealership today and they told me to call road assistance, can a clk 1998 get rad assistance help? or is it too old? I am using my pickup truck until i resolve this problem.
I took out fuses 2,4,5 from the trunk and i think that the anti theft system is not operating but still don't know if i can call road assistance for a 1998 Benz.Anyone knows?
Call the dealership today and they told me to call road assistance, can a clk 1998 get rad assistance help? or is it too old? I am using my pickup truck until i resolve this problem.
hope this isn't obvious, but can the second owner of a benz (that would be me) use the road assistance? do they check you against a name and registration when you call?
I am a second owner but the car is in my name now. What i don't know is if you can use road assistance for the life of the vehicle my CLK is from 1998. Dosent Road assistance end with the car warranty?
Nobodys answering because nobody knows your particular problem..... When i had my alarm problem, I searched the forum and found no answers. These problems are hard to chase down even with schematics and service manuals. I've not heard of your problem.
The alarm system is quite complex my man. There are signal acquisition modules in the doors, a tow sensor, a trunk sensors, a hood sensor, a wireless RF receiver in the overhead, a crash detection module, a PSE vacuum control module in the right side trunk which interprets all signals and pumps compressed air to doors. There is an immobilizer that disables the vehicle when the cluster is removed. I'm not even sure where the alarm brain is I never got to that point. You need to put your troubleshooting skills to work if you dont want to seek a professional. You need to start isolating the problem to a part or even trace out wires. The parts department will be happy to sell you parts but if you go down that road you may pay more than an authorized repair...
Good luck
Last edited by clk430convert01; 10-28-2008 at 08:56 PM.
I have a similar problem on my 2003 230 K. 94500 miles. I had a battery charger on after winter storage, set hood down lightly, OK. But when I lifted the hood the next day there was a spark, I think the +cable must have touched the hood for a second. So OK, car started, drove and parked for night. The alarm went off at 3am. Put key in ignition to stop. Then the next couple days it went off at random times. I finally pulled the fuse, found out no interior lights and can't lock doors. Then I thought maybe if I disconnected negative terminal for a while it might reset something. Hooked battery back up, fuse still out, closed door, thought it was unlocked but didn't really check, close hood. Now I can't get back into the car. Fob unlock doesn't work with no fuse. (apparently my ignition had been changed before I bought it because my key doesn't work in driver door) I remember that I had unlocked the doors using the key in the trunk before, but that didn't work with no fuse either. I had to call AAA and a guy came and broke into car in less than one minute with his tools. Yeah! Now....Back to alarm/siren. I put fuse in again, alarm went off about 2 days later. What I have done to keep the alarm off with fuse in is this: When I park I take key out of ignition. Unlock all doors and trunk using center console button. Then disarm the tow-away alarm by pressing upper half of that swich for about 3 seconds. Indicator lamp on the switch light up briefly then stay off. (It is normally blinking when you lock the car) Lock car with remote or key. The tow-away alarm remains disarmed until you lock your vehicle again. I must admit though, I am scared to lock it after what happened to me before, so most of time I just disarm the tow-away alarm and leave car unlocked.
Still drives and rides like new. I've had for 6 1/2 years. Put about 40,000 miles on it.
Sometimes, the capacitor that holds energy within the alarm siren wears out and causes a situation where the alarm system "thinks" it was disconnected/tampered with due to the voltage dropping below a threshold as the capacitor cannot sustain a charge any longer. This causes the alarm to activate. It killed my battery a couple of times due to this issue...while I was traveling for work, I was paranoid about returning to the airport parking to find a dead battery, so I used to just manually lock doors and trunk with the valet key. I have since solved this (so far) by disconnecting the siren altogether. I honestly don't know if this causes the immobilizer to not function properly, but I have no error codes and the remote lock/unlock works fine. If someone really wants this 20-year-old car that bad, I guess it's my loss.
On the 208, the siren is located behind the front portion of the driver's side fender liner.
10-26-2008, 11:46 PM
