CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

W208 Lower control arm bushing

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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 02:38 PM
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White 1999 CLKL320
W208 Lower control arm bushing

I just received new poly LCA bushings but had a quick question on doing the job myself. If I remove both of the control arm bushing bolts will the control arm move down far enough to work on the bushing? I realize I will have to use a jack to slowly lower the control arm since it is under spring tension. I'll see if I can do a full DIY writeup while I'm at it.
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 02:43 PM
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I'm pretty sure you'll have to use a jack for that. but my question is... do you have the compression tool to remove and replace those bushings?
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 02:48 PM
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I have some clamps I should be able to sue to press the bushings out with.
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 07:01 PM
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i think the hardest step is separating the lower ball joint.
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by sfclk
i think the hardest step is separating the lower ball joint.
If I separate the lower ball joint & detach the 2 control arm bolts will the entire control arm come off? I think pressing the old LCA bushing would be a bit easier if I could take the entire control arm to the basement workshop. I have a ball joint separator and new ball joints I am planning on installing. If I can do that and the LCA bushings the same time I would be quite happy.
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 02:00 AM
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Two bolts and seperating the lower joint will drop the while lower arm.

Let us know how it goes.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 01:44 PM
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Last weekend I successfully replaced the drivers side lower ball joint and lower control arm bushing. It took me 12 hours labor but since I know what I'm doing now, the next side will take half that. There are a few tips and tricks I learned along the way. My $10 eBay ball joint separator did absolutely no good. I should have used the Mercedes specific separator but a hammer worked with less force than expected. For the LCA bushing I used a threaded rod assembly and a torch to press the old bushing out. I'll get step by step directions and detailed pictures when I do the passenger side.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 02:26 PM
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^

glad to hear someone was able to handle the work themselves. was the 22mm nut(if i recall correctly) on the ball joint easy to break loose?
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by sfclk
^

glad to hear someone was able to handle the work themselves. was the 22mm nut(if i recall correctly) on the ball joint easy to break loose?
Yeah it broke free with a lot less effort than I expected. I had to grind a box wrench so it was thin enough to fit over the top nut of the joint. After that I had a bit more trouble because the ball joint would spin when I tried to loosen it. I know you should be able to use a hex key to keep it from spinning. Even after cutting a 5mm hex key to make fit I had no luck. The hex key did not fit snug so it kept popping out. I ended up using a wrench below the threaded portion of the ball joint to get enough grip to get the nut off. I was happy to see my work was not in vein as the ball joint had quite a bit of play and the LCA bushing rubber was cracked. The car does not wander or shimmy at 40+ as much as it used to and I still have the passenger side of the car to do!
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 07:42 PM
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Any updates??
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Ghostrider
Any updates??
Yeah I was sick last weekend so hopefully I can finish this weekend!
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Old May 1, 2009 | 11:08 AM
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Swine flu...
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Old May 1, 2009 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Ghostrider
Swine flu...
I knew I should have stayed far away from Miss Piggy
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Old May 1, 2009 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by thebender
I knew I should have stayed far away from Miss Piggy
No worries... Your secert is safe with us! Feel better though.

I had been meaning to ask you, are you replacing all four (4) bushings in the front?
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