Vipclk320 Rear Strut Bar
Iv'e just spent 3hrs writting about how good the rear struts were only to be thrown off the system again and again! So here's a much shorter version!
The bars are brilliant! Full stop.
My ride is smoother, I have less body roll, more grip and I haven't lost my ride quality.
They compliment my Bilstein struts and Eibach springs with Bilstein sway bars nicely. My only gripe is that the bars only tighten one way which means that which ever bar you tighten pulls the base off it's pad slightly (look at the first pic). This was much worse before I noticed and I had to re-do the lot making sure that both bases had good grounds.
As you can see I retained my boot space and I didn't even have to cut my boot lining. I just folded the lining around the bar.
This bar is an excellent buy for anyone wanting a more sporty ride although if you don't have springs and sway bars your result won't be as tight!
Well done VIP!
Last edited by Pauljay; Oct 10, 2009 at 01:39 PM.
I can't tell you how many times I've lost long well thought out posts. Now if I plan on more than a few lines I write in a word document and cut and paste it.
Les
You adjust the bars strength by screwing the strut towers IN-WARDS for more, OUT for less.
You can only adjust screwing in on one side though because screwing the other way is for width adjustment.

Ps, my girlfriend has just told me about word also, WHERE was she earlier
.Sick430.
I played around with it and tightened it too tight I think. The ride was awful. It felt what I imagine a low rider would feel like bouncing around Harshly.
Now though it's perfect. I can feel a big difference through the bends
.
Last edited by Pauljay; Oct 10, 2009 at 02:05 PM.
Les
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From fiddling around with my set up I understand that you can adjust for tightness and width while the bar is bolted to the car.
Screwing the adjuster in one direction shortens the bar and tightens the ride by pulling the strut towers in. If you screwed the adjuster in the other direction it would loosen the bar. Keep turning and the adjuster would tighten, but as the threads on each bar are opposite you would now be unscrewing the thread in the opposite bar there by lengthening the bar and widening the width.
The best way is to adjust for width first by screwing the bars into the adjuster so that both have equal thread left, keeping the hole to adjust centered. Now install the bar and bolt down then screw the adjuster in to pull on the towers and tighten your ride.
Hope that helps.

You'll love it when it arrives!
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Thank!
I will look up the camber arms for you. I was actually going to get a new set as there are some real nice ones on eBay now which are under $200.
http://topspeedauto.com/mercedes-ben...ber-arms-pair/
What you think on these?
Thank!
http://topspeedauto.com/mercedes-ben...ber-arms-pair/
What you think on these?
Fact is “Full front and rear wheel alignment” is no more!
Since the mid ‘90 model’s, with the ever increasing speed of vehicle assembly lines there has been no front or rear Camber (or front Caster) adjustment facility fitted OEM
Only current adjustment is front and rear Toe!
To attempt to return vehicle to factory specs to resolve costly premature inner edge tire wear, improve traction, and fix steering pull the only current alternative for Camber and Caster is to fit offset, slotted bolts (for the front only). But these are inaccurate - one only position bolts - offering a minimal .3 of one degree adjustment (3mm / 1/8”).
It’s no wonder many owners continually change tire brands or go from one MB Dealer or alignment shop to another trying to get it right/fix the problem!
We saw the need therefore "to fix it right the first time" by designing, developing, patenting (and re-instating from the 1990's) fully adjustable front (and rear) suspension for virtually all models.
The current K-MAC kits have up to 4 times the adjustment of these one only position offset bolts (both Positive or Negative). And unlike these one position bolts they can be accurately adjusted on car(under load) direct on alignment turntable (no need for labor intensive removal/replacement each time).
Providing ongoing full, precise adjustment of both Camber and Caster settings if altering suspension height, fitting wide profile tires/wheels, curb knock damage or being able to quickly fine tune/change specs on race days (extra Negative/plus track width to go deeper into the corners/lower lap times). With the unique K-MAC patented design only requiring use of a single wrench/no disassembly.
For the rear, similar kits for precise Camber adjustment (with additional Toe to compensate for the new Camber facility). Importantly unlike the alternative rear adjustable Camber control arms available K-MAC kits do not move top of tire outwards - this reducing essential clearance top of tire to outer fender when adjusting to fix premature inner edge tire wear/improve rear traction.
Also instead of spherical bearings as used on control arms which prematurely pound out allowing metal to metal contact. At K-MAC we have developed long life elastomer bushings.
Bonus with the four front and four rear bushes is that they are also designed with twice the load bearing area and replace the highest wearing suspension bushings. And with K-MAC no special tools are required to fit.
Note (Product background re bushings): Majority OEM bushes have air voids to allow 2 axis movement. So control arms can travel through their required arcs without binding, locking up.
Essential with today’s modern designs of “multi-link” arms with different angle mount points!
Yet most “aftermarket” replacement bushes the industry standard is to eliminate these air voids in an attempt to improve both steering response and reduce wheel hop, loss of traction under brake and acceleration.
The opposite is often the case – the elimination of the air voids causes even more severe wheel hop, loss of traction through binding, locking up of arms.
K-MAC bushes – with 50 years now of bush technology are designed without the air voids but where needed with “full 2 axis movement”. Result is power to the ground – maximum traction/acceleration/braking - along with noticeably improved directional control and steering response for highway driving, lane changing.

Guys, I can vouch for K-Mac bushes! I have their kit.
The whole kit (front and rear) is expensive AND you have to pay import tax too (at least in the UK). But the ride, control and sporty feeling is fantastic! Not to mention I now have the correct tire alignment as my car is lowered.
The adjustment is brilliant, yet so simple (one nut). I had an Indie install mine who does club racing and the set up he dialled in is awesome!
K-MAC bushes and strut bars, definitely worth the $$$s for a really sporty drive!








