What's the word Ash???

get your paypal accounts ready friends, the bars are here and just have to install it on mine so i can show you pictures.

Payment Sent!!!

Payment sent.

Thank you.

how will this do without the rear ash? wish i could get it into my trunk

whats pricing and ne pics?

Yes sir, I probably want one also. Cost? And pics?

Ok here it is. this is what's involved in instalation:
1. you have to trim the wall edge 1/2" done with a dremel or any shop can do it for under (15 minutes)
2. move the jumper terminal out of the way done with number 8 socket (1 minute) it can be left alone or moved to a preferred location.
3. move throttle sensor up one hole, done with a number 8 socket (1 minute)
4. drill one hole on the passenger side bit for 7/16 size bolt (3 minutes)
5. turn wheel outward and tie the knot from under the fender liner (6 minutes)
install time is about 25 minutes because you have to put the knott from under the fender liner to tie the bar to the body,very simple, you can do it by turning the wheel out wards. and minimal tools requires dremel, 11/16 socket, 11/16 wrench exacto knife to trim the rubber piece.

Price is $260 plus $15 shipping i accept payments via paypal at ashkanafrasiab@gmail.com and please choose PERSONAL PAYMENT, PAYMENT OWED as payment type. and please include your address on the notation part. thank you very much and keep in mind i only made 20 of them so first come fist serve.
There are still 2 rear ones available for the people that didn't get a chance to pickup a rear one the rears are $230 and i can combine shipping.














let the sale begin.

it will work fine but i highly recomend the back too. personally i wouldn't sacrafise my handeling for sounds specially with that turbo on. i have a friend that jisut shaved off about 2 inches from the back of his box so the bar fitted fine and he got to keep his sound and the handeling. i still have two more rears available.

gohst check your e-mail. yours is packed and will be on it's way tomorrow or saturday.

Already sent you a reply!!

Ok I wonder if you still have OEM air box on will it still fits ? In another word it will fits only if u have that kind of intake ?

Andy

It clears the air box, my intake piping sits higher than the air boxes and I have no clearance issues.

thats good to know man.

Andy

Hi Ash looks nice and neat.

Question though, why didn't you use the suspension struts? How does this application work through the body? I know the strut bars are supposed to stop the body from twisting but can you please explain.

Ps Pm sent.

Yes they essentially work identical to the rear ones. except being that the front bar has to be longer and the front being heavier dur to the engine it is better to mount directly to the bdoy. less stress on the bar and car which inturn equals to smoother stiffness for the front and you need that because all your moving parts are in the front so you don't want it to be rough it has to be stiff but smooth and the mounting point has to be stronger for the front than the back. I tested both ways and I was very pleased with this setup.
I hope that answered your question. and thank you for your payment enjoy.

I WANT NOW! Looking good
Bro will hit you up this week to pick mine up! just got to finish up finals first.

Yours is safe brother

I see a good piece just not as good as should or could be. Please take this as healthy criticism.
1. Mouting points should center on the strut or shock tower. Under stress or load they create flex. Its critical for the brace body mount to create a more solid suspension by tying into the shock/strut bolt. If the body mounts now aren't on the strut/shock bolt you're losing alot of the intended extra bracing.
2. The bolt attaching the body mount to the ends of the strut bar. If it has threads touching the bar without having a collar the exact size of the whole in the bar and the size of the bolt you have instant slop.

So I think its a nice piece as is but just for starters an easy upgrade would be add/replace the mounting bolt on the ends of the brace with a bolt that is solid inside the bar to control a better tolerance fit.

Hary Gahtoe

all joke's aside and i'm not just saying it but i stopped by late last night to give ash a helping hand and did some tweaks and took the ride out for a spin and the car's handles so smooth!!!!! you guys need to hop on this front tie bar...i'm pushing for him to make a set for my e39...

So I think its a nice piece as is but just for starters an easy upgrade would be add/replace the mounting bolt on the ends of the brace with a bolt that is solid inside the bar to control a better tolerance fit.

Hary Gahtoe

Hary, I hear what you're saying!

What if the threaded bolt is a tight fit or has very marginal movement. Will you feel the slack effect?

I'm sure Ash has thought of everything. When He talks about smooth tightness maybe because with our chassis we can over do the stiffness and I know all chassis' need a certain degree of flex.
Ash also mentioned that he tried both configurations when bolting the bar on and found the body mount to work best.

There are only 4 Choices...Period!!!

1. VIPCLK320's Design
2. Wiechers GmbH http://www.wiechers-sport.de/
3. Fabricate your own
4. None of the above


Wiechers GmbH Installation Instructions Translated from German courtesy of Google Translator

1. Disassemble the filter with support plate on the passenger side and the control on the driver's side.
2. The electronic throttle has to be lowered with the included adapter.
3. Peel off the seal of the injection wall.
4. The fixing bracket.
5. The splash wall has to be where it touches the folded or cut out of the brace.
6. Drill and attach the strut then with the screws provided.
7. Now, put the seal back on the injection wall. At the intersections of the strut, you cut the seal from below.

Original Text for those who read German.

1. Demontieren Sie den Filter mit Halteblech auf der Beifahrerseite sowie das Steuergerät auf der Fahrerseite.
2. Das Elektronische Gaspedal muß mit dem mitgelieferten Adapter tiefer gelegt werden.
3. Ziehen Sie die Dichtung der Spritzwand ab.
4. Fixieren Sie die Strebe.
5. Die Spritzwand muß an den aufliegenden Stellen der Strebe ausgeschnitten bzw. umgelegt werden.
6. Bohren Sie, und befestigen Sie die Strebe anschließend mit den mitgelieferten Schrauben.
7. Stecken Sie nun die Dichtung wieder auf die Spritzwand auf. An den Berührungspunkten der Strebe schneiden Sie die Dichtung von unten aus.

As you can see this is in the same location as with VIPCLK320's, the mounting points are not tied into the shock/strut bolt and this has been on the market for a while. Correct me if I am wrong but to my knowledge no other company has attempted to fabricate one for the W208 Frame.

I choose Option #1

This bar is OK but compared to the Weicher bar, just OK. A single long shaft bolt mounting plate is going to deflect stress and bend. That tall spacer is another area for lost rigidity. Like I said, this is a nice piece but has basic flaws. The bar shape would be stronger if wasn't round and straight. Also if it was bent like German bar you'd have better mounts, also have less flex.
And a mounting plate with 2/4 bolts much and stronger.