Hey whats up everyone, i just recieved my hps gen1 charger that i bought from another member for my clk430. everything looks to be good but the instructions are very vague describing how to run all the pcv, vacuum, boost, etc. lines. i hav an idea but not 100%. if anyone with this knowledge can chime in that would be very helpful and great. there were no lines included so i will be purchasing lines, fittings, clamps, etc. and hope to make 1 trip to the parts store and buy it all in bulk(we know that aint happening tho) so if you can also supply me with exact sizes etc. that would be great. Thanks

 

DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS YOURSELF!

Trust me, if you're not a mechanic, please go to one to have it put on. Probably should run you in the neighborhood of $1000, maybe less, to have it done correctly. I ASSURE you it's worth it!

I would also suggest getting the AEM IF/C-8 like Hersh used to dial in the tuning. Don't use a rising rate fuel pump. You'll run entirely too rich practically the whole time while driving.

 

i def have a good enough background in mechanics its just that hps's instructons arent that clear and basically all i need to know all the lines (vacuum,etc.) i hav a tuning guy i go to, the only thing is hes mostly knowledgable in domestics, but im sure he can work some magic

 

I agree with falls. If your not familiar with installing a sc then you might want to find someone that can. I got someone in queens that's very expierence in such projects. But if your confident in doing it yourself, do as much research as possible.

 

I am familiar with the install i just want to get direct opinions from hps gen1 owners on how they installed all the lines. nitrogenbalanced installed catch cans and a vacuum pump, others ran all breather lines into the catch can and instead of venting to atmosphere, installed a line into the TB, or there was talk of running all breather lines from the valve covers into a catch can with a mini filter attached to the top to vent to atmosphere. the point of this thread was to find the most safest, cleanest, and effective way to run all the lines. i definatly am inclined in mechanics, and am 1 to work on my car not not let any1 else touch it(the ONLY thing that was ever done on my since i owned it was tire mounting because i dont hav a tire machine, other than that it has never been to the dealership for services because i do them all, i only trust myself). its just that ppl ran the lines differently and came up with different results. Silence nitrogenbalance suicidal4life e55cent you guys out there? lol

 

Give HPS a call and ask them to send you something.

 

When you say tuning I assume you mean the ECU and if this is the case I would deal with a guy who has thorough experience with tuning Mercedes cars. The proper software and hardware are needed to tune our cars and any guy with a dyno wont cut it. LET motorsports give them a call, hell maybe we can save some money and schedule a group session I will need a custom tune very soon.

 

Nobody knows anything? i gotta try other parts of the forum lol. And as for you Nasty, i got refered to another shop basically 5 min from me, but still hav to go there to see if they can dial it in and i also want to see if they can tune the tcu for the extra HP, firmer shifts and hold the gears longer. since your from Virginia wheres LET motorsports?

 

what do u wanna know?

 

Hey Sal,

There are a few options each with an up and down. The most simple way to do it which I had run for almost a year was to vent all lines to a catch can.

T the small v.cover lines and 5/8 line into one large line and run that into a vented catch can. I would keep the line size large and be sure not to run all lines down to a small 3/8 leading to the can. Being that its simply vented you'll want pressure/gasses to escape as easily as possible. Using small lines will increase CC pressure and work against you. Downside to this setup is that it isn't green, and if a motor is making some serious gusto it can become a parasitic loss during the down stroke as pressure builds in the crankcase. Upside is that its simple and you don't mix the crankcase gases with the intake charge = better air/fuel mix. A good tip on this that I learned the hard way is to mount the can as close to the intake filter as possible. If the can's mini filter is any where else it will stink during idle and slow traffic driving. Keeping it right next to the intake filter worked like a charm sucking up the stinky air.

 

I was thinking about connecting the valvecover lines into the tb, i know what your saying about better air/fuel quality but i dont want more lines than the car already comes with running from one end of the car to the other lol.whats your take on that? and also the bypass valve, where did you run a line to for that(and what size)?

 

or what about if i just run them basically as they originaly were. the two valve cover hoses into the adapter then into the hole on the intake ducting and manifold. and not running the line like they say in the instructions up to before the maf?


And also what to do with the supercharger bypass valve?

 

this thread is comical

do not contact HPS whatever you do

you do not need to be familiar with installing superchargers to install a supercharger- you just need adequate direction and an understanding of what you are doing... sadly it sounds like you may not have either

HPSs directions are wrong in many ways (even if you were somehow able to follow them)

What you need is an understanding of what each of those vacuum lines is trying to accomplish for you- my best advice is to do some research to try to gain an understanding of what they are supposed to do and then just apply logic. Don't be afraid to play around with hose size either once you get things going.

A properly installed rising rate (as the kit comes with) will NOT run way to rich practically all the time... I have a calibrated gauge that I watch, but equally importantly still show MPGs in the 26 range on the freeway which I highly doubt could be the result of parasitic loss and dumping way too much fuel in.

so far as if I'm "out here"... the answer is no. I've got my car dialed in and have moved on to other ventures. I hope to finish some loose-ends with my interior and drive the car when I get bored and maybe hit a show or two, but don't expect me to be around here too much. I'm pretty bored with this forum. People are either rich, dumb idiots or wish they were. I'm kind of embarassed to own an AMG a lot of the time, until I think about how much I actually love the car and how there aren't many of those type of people in my part of the country.

again- feel free to continue to pm me with any questions (or I may become interested in this thread depending on how it goes).

ooh- lastly, I may still have an upgraded fuel pump laying around that could help you. You WILL need a stronger pump than stock imo

 

LET travels to a local shop in your area that has a dyno and tunes your car via their software and Innovate hardware\software. You can also have them do it remotely from a Dyno and an internet connection. Im not sure how well the remote tune will be but as long as nothing needs to be done mechanically then it should be accurate, it will just take longer. I plan on using them as I have done extensive research and they seem like the only company I trust that is not going to charge me more to tune than than what my engine is worth.
What is the name of the shop you know?


P.S. I have heard horror stories of people touching the tcu, if you want some better shifts and a little added performance then you can install a tranny valve body from an SLR,SL AMG (its blue) or buy a performance one.

 

Let me know when you plan on getn a tune, well see if we can work somthing out with LET , the place is RPMNorth, idk anything bout them. looked them up and they are a kleemann distributer, so looks like they may be able to help with the tune, if not im sure they know someone(every1 in the automotive business knows some1 lol) and the tcu tune is scary esp. since these cars already hav a bad tranny rap, but somthings gotta be done. idk ill look into the valve body but ik they gotta be expensive comin from an amg or slr for that matter. im starting to hate this forum, its makin me become a loner, tryin to figure out these lines n sh*t lol.

 

I wouldn't run the lines as that picture indicates. Those two ports will see boost and you don't want to boost the crankcase or the tank vapor line which is the rigid line you see going into the top part. You could use a check valve in this situation but then it needs to vent somewhere else under boost. You could run the lines to the TB which relocates to before the supercharger to see vacuum only, maybe run a PCV valve on this line. You'd still need to T the lines together and run longer lines though either way... I'd think running it pre MAF would be bad considering the smallest of contaminants foul the sensors. Maybe start with a simple and clean vented system to a c.can, get it running and then address the parasitic loses and such. The bypass valve I had running fine using rigid 1/8ish vac. line T'd into the rigid OEM lines near the firewall all out of site. Did you get some rigid vac line for the rising fuel pressure unit?

 

I kno thats what i figured, these instructions are crap imo. i think im going to do as you say and run all the lines to the TB. cap off the hps intake ducting and manifold ports, run the Lf and Rt breather and tank vapor lines to the original MB adapter. run two lines off the adapter t'd into 1 into the TB. hows that sound? I still have to pick up lines. i hav line for the fmu that came with the charger. have to check it out tho. and what about the vac to pressure compensator. it hooks up to the vacuum solenoid and port on the intake manifold on the front of the motor? never any talk of that.

 

I don't know anything about this subject but will read most threads because I can usually learn something. My question to silver is, what are you *****ing about? People have come forward to help you(albeit one is a bit arrogant) and you are friggin complaining. Whatever.......

 

I dont believe i was complaining about anything and when i state the instructions are crap i was refering to HPS's instructions. i appreciate all the help and it has been useful. i wouldnt talk sh*t on my own thread. what would be the point of even starting one if you are going to put down the ppl trying to help you?

 

That should work, you will pull CC vapors through the charger so maybe a filtered can inline would be good. Most of this can be run neat and out of site. To keep things tidy and prevent another fitting I would run a couple inches of line from the tank vent to the rear manifold port with a PCV(check valve) in line. That would keep things a bit more tidy with less line going up front and the short periods where the valve is shut under boost shouldn't effect a thing. For the record I think we used 25% of the directions, Adam was available whenever I called him though, yet this was 4 years ago and I payed him cash in hand......

 

Ok i think i came down with 2 ways of doing this, Any good?

1. run 1/2in hose from the small ports on the valve covers into a T, Drill a hole in the T for for a fiting for the rigid vapor line, run that to a vented catch can. then run 5/8in hose from the bigger valve cover port directly to the throttle body. then for the bypass valve and vortech fmu, run T's in the vacuum line running across the firewall(would that be too big of a job for that one vacuum line to run both things?) (first diagram)

2. run 1/2in hose from the small ports on the valve covers into a T, Drill a hole in the T for for a fiting for the rigid vapor line. then T that into a T from the 5/8in hose from the bigger valve cover port, down the line put in a closed catch can then that directly to the throttle body. then for the bypass valve and vortech fmu, run T's in the vacuum line running across the firewall(would that be too big of a job for that one vacuum line to run both things?) (second diagram)

Which way sounds better, im trying to stay away from the whole vented catch can idea but idk if the vacuum created from the TB would be enough to vent ALL the lines aposed to just the 1 5/8in line? give me your thoughts. And instructions talk about a HPS vacuum to pressure compensator device or a vacuum modulator? it involves messing around with the tubing on the oem vacuum solenoid on the front of the motor, no ideas, Any clue?

 

If your motors in decent shape, you shouldn't have much oil in the vapors and shouldn't hurt anything pulling thru charger or i/c...is there an intercooler on these kits?
anyhow, I think nitrogenbalance meant something like this..note check valve.

 

Just because they are a distributor does not mean they can tune, most of the tunes they receive are predetermined and they just flash them onto an ECU with the corresponding kleemann hardware. This will not work for your car you will need a complete custom tune such as myself. The valve body you can buy from IPT for about $700. I have heard horror stories about their tranny rebuilds though so if you want that then go to Southern HOTROD. My bad about the SLR,SL parts they are solenoids not valve bodies and they are blue tops and are not that expensive about $400. You should be ok with the stock tranny clutches with your power output so you prob dont need a full rebuild and you will be fine with just doing these upgrades.


I have nothing but love for these guys and this site, Benzworld also, for the knowledge and help I have received. You have to be patient and bump your thread a couple times and you will get a response.


Here is something to ponder does it count as thread jacking if Im helping the thread starter?

Some info about the solenoids
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...installed.html

 

Thanks for jacking my thread ive been workn so hard on!!!!! lol J/K. This def sounds good to me, coupled with lsd should be alot of fun. im going to look more in depth into that. i also want to pick up a set of c43 heads and work them a bit, port/polished manifold, and looking at kleemann headers, but thats a ways down the line. i want to get this thing up n going with the blower first to make sure the motor can handle just that for a while b4 i dump more into it n blow it. sooooo what you guys think about the ways im thinking of running the lines, and any help with the other questions would be very helpful!!!! Thanks to all

 

yeah, I wouldn't worry about sucking the gasses back throught he charger- i did for about 7k miles before taking apart my car quite a bit and saw very little evidence of dirty stuff. I am running a catch can now- it's located down low on the drivers side.

I did do HPSs instructions with the front of the motor with those vacuum solonoids

Otherwise, ya- I think you've basically got it. come up from those tees on the back and get vacuum to all the stuff that needs it.

for the fpr though- I'd recommend tapping a copper fitting into the inlet pipe so that you are absolutely sure that no matter what THAT sees boost when the motor is boosting. mine is tapped onto the back of my intercooler in that manner.

here's a very dirty (sort of in progess) picture- I was going to try to snap some of the important stuff for you, but I did too good a job of hiding most of it. Sorry for the random wires, dust and junk. It's middle of winter here.