rstoparc

My drivers side window has come off the track. I can hear the mechanism moving up and down, but the window itself stays down.

I want to remove the door panel and see if I can get it back in it's track myself. I downloaded the interior door panel removal instructions from the DIY thread but had a couple of questions (post #68). Hopefully someone here who has done it before can save me some grief.

The MB that I have is a 1998 CLK 320 coupe.

1. The Installation Wedge and Long Wedge. What the heck? How do I use a wedge to "unclip" the panels? Will a screwdriver suffice? Am I at risk of breaking all the clips?

2. There is a screw indicated by the diagram near the door pull handle. Damned if I can find it. Anyone know where this is?

Any other tips, hints, don't do's are very appreciated.

vizionclk430

# 1 there is no clips you just have to pry it up the reason they say wedge so you won't damage any thing.

#2 the cap on the door pull comes off you have to tug on it a little the screw is behind that. Its like two peace just grab on and tug slightly

e harmon

Before you go in there, you might want to consider that the window motor, and regulator and not easy to see or get to, even with the panel off. They are both in a cavity between the outer door and inner door skin, which has a few holes to access the window mechanisms and door stop.

Having said that:

Instead of the wedges, you can get by with a putty knife or something similar with some care. If you run it along the back, bottom, and front edges of the panel, you can feel the plastic clips about 2-3" in from the edge, spaced 4-6" apart. I personally center the clip on the putty knife and twist to pop the clips out one at a time. It is probably a good idea to order a handful of clips before you start; they are inexpensive and easy to break. Also, if you do break one, make sure you try to fish out every piece of it before you re-assemble so it's not in there rattling around when you drive.

Be ready to remove a few wiring harnesses from the door panel for speakers and seat controls, and a steel cable for the door pull. To remove the steel cable, pull the tension toward the front of the panel and push up on the hook from the bottom. Installation is the reverse. There should be sufficient slack to do this.

As vizion said, there is a cover over the door handle that pries off. Mine was on pretty tight and was tricky to get off the first time. If you feel along the bottom edge of the cover you'll find a small "slot" for prying up. Use caution, because the actual door handle could be brittle from age; mine was. Make sure to take your time.

Regards,
e harmon

vizionclk430

I'm sorry guess I was wrong about the clips. I just took my door panel off last week thought I remembered it was held tight with the blackstrip with felt attached to the panel. So sorry if I gave you wrong info. Yeah that will be the easier part of your job good luck

rstoparc

OK. So I got the door panel off, without any broken clips!!!! That wasn't anywhere near as hard as I thought thanks to the great instructional help I got here.

At the bottom of the door is a cavity that is covered in a light white plastic (rain protection?) I assumed that I could glue another piece back on over top of it. Looking through the cavity I see my window, that I can't budge by hand and it is in the bottom track.

When I try to open the window a crescent shaped piece of metal with gear type teeth on it, that appears to be connected to the frame on the window, moves. However the window does not.

Any guesses?

Is it easy or possible to remove the inner door skin?

Am I out of my depth (which isn't very deep, I am at the shallow end of the pool when it comes to these things).

Thanks again for the previous help and I hope that you can help me out with this one.

The window itelf is lying on the bottom of the door cavity.

bacardy703

Hey guys,

Great info here, but I think I am stuck with removing the top panel on my driver's side door panel (on a 2000 clk430 convertible). I got the lower part completely detached pretty easily but have lots of resistance at the top. I guess I have to remove the door handle and there's another screw behind that? I need to get in and remove the broken door catch so i can replace it. Pictures are below of where I am now.

Much thanks!

aqua190

once you get all the clips and screws out, pull out at the bottom and lift upwards. the top of the door panel has a ledge that fits down into the area where the glass comes up.

bacardy703

Thanks for the info. The part I'm stuck at seems to be the black cover behind the chrome door handle inside. I see the area below it that needs to be lifted out but as I try to lift it out, it seems stuck and very stubborn (maybe since it hasn't been opened in a long time, if ever)... i'm afraid I will break the black plastic behind it. Any suggestions on how to get that off safely? As I understand there is one more screw behind that black cover that must be removed before I can take off the inside door panel.

Thanks.

bacardy703

I finally received my part from Autohaus for about $52 shipped and I did get the door panel off, turns out it was relatively easy once that top part slides out. The door tensioner was a bit tricky to get off, mine was pretty stubborn to remove. Once you are in there, how do you get into the cavity where the door catch is located to replace it? are there screws in there through the holes? I have not had time to look at it thoroughly since I just took it apart last night.

Thanks again.

MLHOM

Version:1.0 StartHTML:0000000105 EndHTML:0000004044 StartFragment:0000002290 EndFragment:0000004008 Hi,

I just removed my interior driver side panel on my 2007 GL450. Here are some pictures to show how it looks like. There are clips and be really careful on the flat wire. If you accidentally ripped it and i thought it would cost hundreds of dollars. But i was surprised the replacement is really cheap. You can order new ones from your local Mercedes wholesale parts department and they sometime stock these. The part number for the major flat wire is A164-540-56-06 and they call it a coding plug and the cost is $39.60. The second flat wire that runs from the trunk control to the module is A164-540-59-06 and it costs less than $20.00. I ordered it from your local Mercedes wholesale parts department and replaced it in my interior door.

Couple of things for you to remember when taking the door panel off. There is a chrome that you have to pop off and is held with clips. Once you pop it off, there are 2 torx bolts that you have to use the torx screw driver to take out. Next is another bolt where your lock and unlock switch reside. You have to first pop off the buttons from the switch. Once you pop them off, you have to carefully use a small screwdriver to pop off the switches. Once you pop them off, there is a torx screw hidden behind those lock/unlock switches. Before we unscrew the torx bolt, please reach behind the panel and unhook the flat wires. I made a mistake of unscrewing the last bolt and the whole panel dropped to the floor ripping the flat wire off the connection.

Hope this helps. My pictures attached.


https://picasaweb.google.com/1086497...rSidePanelDoor

Thanks
William